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problem with rt 1000

I am having a minor problem with my 05 rt 1000. When i am climbing it will sometimes just start cutting out. If i hold the throttle in it usually will kick in and go again. It only happens once or twice per ride but when i get burried because of it it really sucks. I think it has something to do withe the tether switch. Is there any way to dissable it? It also burns a ton of oil. I usually go through 3 quarts on a tank of gas. If any one has had simmilar problems or knows what it could be let me know.
 
Does it begin to beep when this happens? I'm pretty sure the tether beeps when it is loose. I would look into the fuel pump, that seems to be the problem with more then one person who has had the same trouble your having. But I guess it could be over cooling if you are still running the rear cooler and have not added the thermostat.

It sounds to me like you need to look at your oiler, maybe it's not returning all the way, or is out of adjustment. That's like 13:1 at 10 gallons... I would say more in the area of 1 quart to 10 gallons maybe even a shade more, that's 40:1
 
search dootalk.com also

i have been reading about the RT's for awhile now and one of the biggest problems is making sure you have a fresh battery. the sdi seems to be fickle and requires a full battery (don't charge yours, but get a new one if you haven't in the past year).

they are also notorious for having a fuel pump prob as mentioned by jacm. there is a napa pump that works much better. also relocate this pump to a more accessible area (this you will find also on dootalk)

jacm is right on about the sled having too much cooling. get an 08 thermostat for your RT.
 
The RT as should ALL water cooled sleds should have a digital water temp gauges. The RT is one of those sleds that was built with too much cooling giving the fact it has no T-stat. You'll find with a temp gauge these RT's run way too cool especially on the climbs. Once the PCM detects a coolant temp that is cooler than 60' F, the PCM will then command a rich mode to protect the motor and that's when the runnability problems start. Given the fact that the RT has a water cooled crank also, a thermostat is the best thing you can do to an RT.

A couple things..verify that your sled is running the 07 mid alt prog, battery has no less than 12.6 volts engine off. If not, throw the battery in the scrap heap. Clean E-raves and verify correct adjustment, if you need help, see the Mach Z FAQ on dootalk.com, check E-rave cables for binding.

It does sound like you may have a broken or mis-adjusted oil cable from the sound of your symptom of excessive oil use.
 
WOW, 20% for $35.00... why mess with NOS or a turbo. That would put RT's in the 200-205 HP with the chip and a can.


Most of this "cheap chips" are just a resistor that goes inline with some sensor that changes it's ohm value making the ECU beleive that some parameter ( air/fuel, air temp, air pressure ... etc.) is out of spec and in turn the ecu over fuels or changes timeing curve or both. It may result in a small gain, but not 20%... more like .20%. You are also messing with a value in the tuning that some engineer thought was the correct spec either for performance, reliablity, emissions.. what ever it it your taking a chance.

If you run the motor out of spec and you burn it down, now how much value have you gotten out of that chip. If EFI tuning were a simple thing there would be a 100 companies making them for 19.95. One burned up top end would cost you more then one EFI tuner ( boondocker for example ). Not to mention these types of changes in tuning often result in massive loss in fuel economy.

If they worked as advertised and you could get a 30 HP gain for that price don't you think every one on here would have one?

It's tempting at the price and that's how they get you. Save you money for a can, or controler box.
 
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