Pro RMK chain tensioner

[flying frenchman]

Is there a better chain tensioner for the 11 Pro. Seems like the same tensioner the dragons had.
Problem is where the adj. bolt pushes on the plastic part of the tensioner it blew a hole through it. Made it home.
Any ideas on what would work better.

 

[Powder Buster]

I can't find it now, but someone posted a while back that the tensioner off an 05 900RMK will bolt right in. It does not use the plastic slider, instead uses a roller style tensioner. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

 

[xTonyCRx]

Is there a better chain tensioner for the 11 Pro. Seems like the same tensioner the dragons had.
Problem is where the adj. bolt pushes on the plastic part of the tensioner it blew a hole through it. Made it home.
Any ideas on what would work better.

I broke mine as well during a high traction panic braking sitiuation. I have heard that the IQRs are more rugged and will work with the PRO.

 

[mountainhorse]

Yep... the 2005 900 RMK (only the 2005 model) chain tensioner is a better tensioner... Part # 1341437 about $55

This does not leave that sludge from the fiber tensioner in the bottom of the chaincase.

 

[xTonyCRx]

Yep... the 2005 900 RMK (only the 2005 model) chain tensioner is a better tensioner... Part # 1341437 about $55

This does not leave that sludge from the fiber tensioner in the bottom of the chaincase.

MH, Is the plastic piece of the 05 RMK reinforced compared to the PRO version? I do like the roller better than the PRO shoe but I wonder if its more resistant to the problem the OP reported (bolt poking threw the plastic) like this:

 

[thu man]

Just curious why they went to the fiber foot after 2005, was it a possible failure with the idler bearing or bushing?

 

[Killer Time Racing]

05 Adjuster X2 ... They took it out to lower noise.. IQR fits right in all the IQ sleds so don't know why it wouldnt fit.

 

[TRS]

This is a maintenance issue. I have seen this problem in multiple stages. All I can say to everyone, check your chain tension. Loose chain tension slaps the adjuster to the bolt.

 

[LoudHandle]

IQR tensioner is still an Aluminum foot and bombproof!

Get the IQR tensioner, has the roller and the aluminum foot. Last time I looked it was cheaper than either of those Garbage Plastic ones. Both plastic ones are a very common failure point, especially up here in the AK where we can see temps in the 40-50-60 below zero range, the plastic gets very brittle and the bolt either pushes thru like pictured or completely shatters. I carry a spare IQR one in my tool bag, because it is much easier to ride the sled out than resort to towing it out. The sled will move depending on ratio and chain slack, but in technical riding and deep snow where you need to be able to get on and off the throttle, everything in the case is wasted before you get it out. A good tensioner is well worth the $45 bucks retail, compared to the cost of new gears chain and a new tensioner. Buy two save a friend the learning curve!

 

[xTonyCRx]

This is a maintenance issue. I have seen this problem in multiple stages. All I can say to everyone, check your chain tension. Loose chain tension slaps the adjuster to the bolt.

In some cases it may be but I adjusted mine per the manual the ride before it broke.

 

[xTonyCRx]

Get the IQR tensioner, has the roller and the aluminum foot. Last time I looked it was cheaper than either of those Garbage Plastic ones. Both plastic ones are a very common failure point, especially up here in the AK where we can see temps in the 40-50-60 below zero range, the plastic gets very brittle and the bolt either pushes thru like pictured or completely shatters. I carry a spare IQR one in my tool bag, because it is much easier to ride the sled out than resort to towing it out. The sled will move depending on ratio and chain slack, but in technical riding and deep snow where you need to be able to get on and off the throttle, everything in the case is wasted before you get it out. A good tensioner is well worth the $45 bucks retail, compared to the cost of new gears chain and a new tensioner. Buy two save a friend the learning curve!

Great info! They wanted $80 for the stock one at the dealer. I was lucky and was under warranty. Mine broke when it was -20C if that has anything to do with it.

I'll be picking an IQR one during the off season. It sucked being towed by my buddies old pro x! He liked it though.

 

[LoudHandle]

Get the #1332266, Aluminum foot and been bombproof for more than a decade!

Yep... the 2005 900 RMK (only the 2005 model) chain tensioner is a better tensioner... Part # 1341437 about $55

This does not leave that sludge from the fiber tensioner in the bottom of the chaincase.

Mountain Horse, That is good info but the even better and cheaper one is #1332266, and retails for $43 and change. Additionally has been in use for more than a decade (on all the race sleds since the days of the PRO-X) and should be stocked at any dealership or parts house worthy of the Polaris sign.

Get the IQR tensioner, has the roller and the aluminum foot. Last time I looked it was cheaper than either of those Garbage Plastic ones. Both plastic ones are a very common failure point, especially up here in the AK where we can see temps in the 40-50-60 below zero range, the plastic gets very brittle and the bolt either pushes thru like pictured or completely shatters. I carry a spare IQR one in my tool bag, because it is much easier to ride the sled out than resort to towing it out. The sled will move depending on ratio and chain slack, but in technical riding and deep snow where you need to be able to get on and off the throttle, everything in the case is wasted before you get it out. A good tensioner is well worth the $43 bucks retail, compared to the cost of new gears chain and a new tensioner. Buy two save a friend the learning curve!

 

[mountainhorse]

xTonyCRx & Loudhandle... Good lead on the IQR part.

LH... thanks for the part numbers.

Learning something new is always good.

Got any Pics?

In those extreme temps... I could see anything plastic having a problem even a seat cover! .... I've never had a problem with the 2005 adjusters though... but I'm very particular about my chain tension and I've never run in anything less than -15F.

I'll be ordering one of the IQR's tomorrow.

In some cases it may be but I adjusted mine per the manual the ride before it broke.

Sounds kind of "coincidental" ... are you sure you took the backside slack completely out of the chain... and did not over-tighten it?




.

 

[xTonyCRx]

Yeah I always take the slack out. It was about 350miles after adjustment and was right after studding in very high traction conditions. I had to hit the brakes HARD to avoid a downed tree which would really pull the slack/adjuster side tight. I am also running 22 39 gearing with a 72 pin chain while acceptable results in more dogleg then I like. The part almost looked like it had voids in it.

 

[flying frenchman]

Thanks for the replies. I ended up getting the stock one as that's all they had, but the IQR looks to be the best .

 

[200smk]

Hey Guys,

How tight do you make your chain? In the service manual it says 1/8 deflection.....does that mean 1/8 hanging or 1/8 when you push on the chain?

I just switched to a 19T top and tightened it so that I can push the chain 1/8 with some force....seems tight.

Thanks.

 

[mountainhorse]

I don't see anything about 1/8 turn etc.

2013 Owners Manual:
1. Remove the side panels.
2. Rotate the driven clutch counter-
clockwise to move all
chain slack to the tensioner
side. Lock the brake lever
lock, or have an assistant hold
the brake lever firmly.
3. Loosen the adjuster bolt jam
nut.
4. Finger tighten the adjuster bolt
until it can no longer be
adjusted by hand, then back
off 1/4 turn.
5. Tighten the jam nut while
holding the adjuster bolt.
Torque to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
6. Reinstall the side panels.
7. Release the brake lever lock.

2012 Service Manual:
1.Open the left and right side door panels. Remove the hood.
2.Remove the exhaust silencer.
3.Rotate the driven clutch counter-clockwise to move all of the slack in the chain to the tensioner side. Set the parking brake, or have an assistant hold the brake lever.
4.Loosen the jam nut.
5.Finger tighten the adjuster screw until it can no longer be adjusted by hand, then back off 1/4 turn.
6.Tighten the jam nut while holding the adjuster bolt. torque to 21 ft-lb (28 Nm).
7.Release the brake lever lock.
8.Reinstall the exhaust silencer.

 

[mountainhorse]

Every 500 miles.. I change the oil... pull the cover and inspect everything as well.




.

 

[200smk]

Hey MH....Thanks for the info.

I got the 1/8" from the 2010-2012 RUSH/Switch/RMK Service Manual.....Page 5.8.

 

[mountainhorse]

Deflection without force... I'd go with the RMK adjustment tech. above


My 2cents.