Pro Rebuild

[seth25]

I recently purchased a 2011 Pro RMK 155 with a damaged tunnel/bulkhead and am in the process of rebuilding it. I have a new tunnel/bulkhead on order, should be here next week. I have the sled completely torn down waiting on the tunnel and have gone through all the parts to make sure nothing is broken/missing, etc. I have a set of skinz airframe running boards on order, should be here next week, and I am planning on installing them first, before starting the rebuild.

I am wondering if there is anything that I need to change/modify, pay extra attention to, etc. when doing the rebuild? I am keeping the sled stock, no powder coating, engine mods, etc. I know that I need to pay extra attention to the wiring harness and I plan on adding extra protection to keep the wires from rubbing through in certain areas. I also know about the air bubble problem in the oil line and I plan on spending extra time to bleed the lines to keep any air bubbles from popping up.

I have a service manual coming that will help out with torque specs. Is there anything special about the rivets that are used to hold on the tail light, foot wells, etc? Will a plain old aluminum rivet be appropriate in those areas? What about locktight? Should I go back with the blue locktight that Polaris used on many of the bolts, or is there a better alternative?

Thanks

 

[GoBigParts]

Need pictures of the tear down.

 

[seth25]

Here is my pile of parts. Tunnel bent at footwells on both sides.

Also, I have heard about problems with an air bubble in the supply line to the oil pump, but I have never heard of an air bubble between the oil pump and case. There is a small bubble between the pump and case.

 

[richracer1]

In regards to rivets, check "Christopher's" Airframe installation review. He shows a pic of the generic rivet provided with the Airframe boards and a rivet he bought from Oft Racing. Here's link to that thread:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236890

scroll down to post #41.

Also, he provide some good info in regards to the installation of the Airframe boards as well.

Oft Racing website - rivet page:
http://oftracing.com/Store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=81

 

[seth25]

Are those the same rivets that the Pro uses? I have the large, black head rivets for the plastic body pieces.

I have a service manual coming, which will probably answer these questions, but what about:

Type of brake fluid?
Type of gear case oil?

Thanks

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

brake fluid is dot 3, gearcase oil..I use polaris synthetic gear oil......

 

[Rick!]

Are those the same rivets that the Pro uses? I have the large, black head rivets for the plastic body pieces.

I have a service manual coming, which will probably answer these questions, but what about:

Type of brake fluid?
Type of gear case oil?

Thanks

When you get your manual, almost all of your questions will be answered. Poo changed brake fluid a few years ago to DOT 4. The chaincase fluid is some nasty purple stuff from the ATV side. I just use synthetic trans fluid and change twice a year to remove sprocket wear fuzz.

The rivets should be listed in the manual. Aluminum and aluminum mandrel rivets are not good for structural stuff - stick with steel rivets with steel mandrels.

Do you have pix of the two front castings? I like the diamond plate bulkhead floor. If the front castings are good, you could get by with a tunnel and the two side castings and save a few bux.

The plastic doesn't look too bad for a hard frontal hit. What took the brunt of the impact?