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pro overheating

how do you keep your pros cool on those cold hard snow mornings buddy sled couldnt make it a mile without heating with scratchers down close to 200 degrees at times not much for heat exchanger anybody else having problems?
 
Depends on the snow...but if it's icy then NOTHING stays cool.

IMO, the Pros have plenty of cooling. Ya just get the snow to em.
 
my sled never even flickered a light snow is like it was this morning alot really makes for a rough start just trying to help him out i am not trying to pic on the pro but there is a real problem there
 
My assault is a pain when its hard and froze this time of year,they could of added a rear heat exchanger at least.Always looking for a little powder.
 
how do you keep your pros cool on those cold hard snow mornings buddy sled couldnt make it a mile without heating with scratchers down close to 200 degrees at times not much for heat exchanger anybody else having problems?


1/ Scratchers down(which you've done)

2/ Maintain speed as much as possible - It seems that mine over heats the worst in the 6500(ish) RPM range so "putting along" down the trail causes issues

3/ Install longer, non-ported, snowflap - Capturing as much snow as possible from the track to be redirected back up & onto the coolers helps

4/ Install Water Wetter coolant additive - Enables the coolant to function more efficiently


Beyond that there are aftermarket coolers available that can be installed..............

The Pro's cooling system is not very forgiving so you need drive on any bit of loose snow or ice you can see on the trail............

Once you're in the deep stuff, for which this sled was made, you'll have no issues............
 
1. Check scratchers are not bent at all (loss of downward tension) from backing up or sliding back even a little. 2. Vary speeds look for loose snow on sides or middle of trail and let it rip, the slow pull in a group where you can not get a burst of speed is the worst. Every time you stop for more than a minute shut it off, it looses temp quickly. 3. do not wait until 160-170 to start thinking of cooling it off, much more effective to start #2 as soon as it starts to climb above 130. If you constantly have poor trail conditions and can not keep a decent temp add a set of bogey wheels the hifax will thank you and add a cooler. :face-icon-small-coo
 
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Also make sure that the scratchers aren't right next to the track. When they are farther away, the spray can make it's way into the track better.
 
I've noticed on my 2011 with the tipped up rails that the snow doesn't fly out the end of the track like the straight rail 2012. I have cooling issues and he doesn't, so he's definitly getting more snow sucked under the tunnel. The problem with adding a rear cooler is then you'll have a big block of ice at the back like the Edge rmks have. I think the ski sratcher is a great idea. Who makes this.
 
I've noticed on my 2011 with the tipped up rails that the snow doesn't fly out the end of the track like the straight rail 2012. I have cooling issues and he doesn't, so he's definitly getting more snow sucked under the tunnel. The problem with adding a rear cooler is then you'll have a big block of ice at the back like the Edge rmks have. I think the ski sratcher is a great idea. Who makes this.

Here. http://www.hartmaninc.com/scratchers.html

or here. fast forward to 1:10. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rS0lj3wNHDw
 
Yup - spring riding really brought out the problems last year when riding early or late when the slush re-freezes and causes real issues with cooling the Pro. I ride with the scratchers down all the time. I've also done the IQ flap, water wetter and maintain speed as best I can. The one thing not mentioned yet is that you really REALLY need to add more oil. By adding a half ounce to each gallon in my tank I reduced running temps by a good 10-15 degrees. Made a HUGE diff! The Pro doesn't get enough oil = more friction = more heat with poor surface area of their small coolers. So far the steps I've taken have kept temps under 170 in difficult conditions and around 130 for normal trails.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
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I've done the IQ flap also, but am removing it due to when I backup it gets under track to easily and the part that it's riveted is getting loose. So I'm reinstalling my non-ported Pro flap.

I'd hate that ski bolt hooking a rock but still a good idea. Spring loaded is a must.
 
What kind of speeds were you maintaining?

Bingo.

On hard, icy snow conditions like running down a plowed road with thin hard snow or down a rock hard trail to have to maintain at least 20 MPH. If you're doing the stop-n-go never really getting over 10-15 MPH all while keeping the enging in the 4500-5800 RPM range it will get hot quick.

If your trail(s) are not wide enough to let you run side by side then you guys need to space out more (like a minute apart) to let the Pro gain some speed so the scratchers can work.
 
I'd also say slow speed. I have never had a problem with the scratchers. Pulled a broke down skidoo for 20 miles and temp never got over 130 on hard pack, but we ran a minimum of 20 mph.
 
What gman said. Found the same thing this year, longer flap, more oil, keep the speed up and good scratchers, and you can get bye if you keep your head. As soon as it starts to get above 135 you might as well drop scratchers, etc., unless you're headed for pow, because it ain't gonna drop until you do either.
 
What kind of speeds were you maintaining?

were were traveling between 20-30 this should be a no brainer but i think polaris didnt provide enough cooler or snow flap. Should be no different then mine drop the scratchers and move on. I am thinking he will have to try a bigger snowflap or possibly a bigger cooler (doesnt look easy) who wants to play the heating game i know i dont. This is a pro mountian sled on snow shouldnt be a issue imo.
 
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