Pro Boondocker is cold air and intercooled

[dmkhnr]

Got some time yesterday to throw my update intercooler/injectors on my boondocker turbo, and had to spend a few hrs this morning finishing up with my cold air intake.
All I can say now is bring the snow.

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Opened up airbox, so the entire dash is vented into my intake tube

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Just needs a wash

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[TurboMatt]

I really like the cold air intake idea.

 

[bill900rmk]

wow! that cold air intake is a super slick set up. I just got my intercooler and i was wondering if i should get the cold air intake, i think you just made up my mind, very nice!

 

[dmkhnr]

A couple of tips on the intercooler install.

The 1/8" poly line that connects between the intercooler and EBC is a push in connection.

I needed to get a 5/16" 90* brass barb fitting for the fuel line that comes off the fuel rail. This line raises vertical off the fuel rail, so the 90* makes the horizontal turn, then 3" of rubber hose, and then your supplied brass T from the new throttle bodies. Use the hose off your old brass T for the extension.

The boost accuator on the charge tube mounts to the opposite side of the barbed fitting. You have 3 rubber lines at this connection the longest being the hose to atmosphere. I took the hose to blow off valve and used it for the loop from actuator to barbed fitting on the charge tube, the hose to atmosphere cuts to fit bov to accuator, and the left over is used for atmosphere.

When seat/fuel tank are removed, use a clamp on the large coolant line up near the top of the head and remove from head. Spin this coolant line around at the tunnel so it is out of the way for intercooler install. I lost very little coolant at the head.

Install fan after intercooler is installed.

Don't forget to change your boondocker box settings. I was putting everything away and realized that I had skipped this step.

 

[dmkhnr]

wow! that cold air intake is a super slick set up. I just got my intercooler and i was wondering if i should get the cold air intake, i think you just made up my mind, very nice!

This cold air intake is not the one that boondocker sells, it is my own design. Very easy to do and $90 in parts from O'rielys autoparts.

Another tip that I found:
Most boondocker turbo's that I have seen have a rusty turbo, as was the case with the pro I ran last year. This sled has that large vent right next to the turbo allowing it to air out while sitting in the trailer. As you can see, no rust at all and 500 miles. I think if you open up the side panel when you get home from your ride, it will prevent the rust.

 

[SNOMAN1174]

I don't know about the pro but on my TD8 I made a cold air intake and it was the best mod I ever did to my turbo. Dropped charge tube temps by at least 40 degrees. I purchased all of my parts at Oriely for about the same price. Spectre is the brand I used. 4" reducing to 3. Works awesome. Your setup looks real nice. Good job.

 

[theshadowrider]

I don't know about the pro but on my TD8 I made a cold air intake and it was the best mod I ever did to my turbo. Dropped charge tube temps by at least 40 degrees. I purchased all of my parts at Oriely for about the same price. Spectre is the brand I used. 4" reducing to 3. Works awesome. Your setup looks real nice. Good job.

Can you post some pictures of them or pm them? I am curious in doing this to my td8? Thanks

 

[Arcteryx]

Did you add the timing key to your setup?? Kinda interested to hear what people say??? I added one to mine but no snow time yet.

 

[dmkhnr]

Did you add the timing key to your setup?? Kinda interested to hear what people say??? I added one to mine but no snow time yet.

I have the timing key from last season which is a 3*. Big difference after install for the better. It tightened up low/mid throttle response.

 

[Kestrel2126]

I have the timing key from last season which is a 3*. Big difference after install for the better. It tightened up low/mid throttle response.

What are you running for boost and fuel? Reason I ask, is I had a BD rep tell me that the timing key is only needed if running "pump" gas. i.e., if you are unsure or concerned about the true octane of the fuel you are using. If you are running a "Premium" fuel (race fuel, av gas) then the timing retarding is not needed and better results are accomplished by tuning.

Not sure about how I really feel about this explanation. I've tried to talk to Jared about this, but he is obviously very busy this time of year. Anyone got any insight?

 

[SSWIM]

If you are running Av gas or Race fuel don't run the timing key.

Sam

 

[hypnotoad]

If you are running Av gas or Race fuel don't run the timing key. Jared is 100% correct.

Sam

Don't remember seeing anywhere where Jared said that, and that isn't what i've heard from my local boondocker rep.

 

[SSWIM]

Don't remember seeing anywhere where Jared said that, and that isn't what i've heard from my local boondocker rep.

My bad. I read that into what Kestrel posted. I did not read it correctly. I thought he said Jared said that. No difference though, the timing key is for pump gas. Not needed for race gas applications. IMO anyway. I've never run one on my race gas applications.

Sorry for the misquote.

Sam

 

[dmkhnr]

I ran the timing key last year at 9# and will continue to run it this year.
From what I was told today, the timing key allows less race fuel to be used per boost (more hp). If I run 12# this season I will start at 50% blend and taper off until det if I so desire.
I did buy their new helix/spring today, and was told that 16# is acheivable.