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Pro Belt Tensioner : Leaving out the cost... will it help?

Ephratafarmer

Well-known member
Premium Member
Please leave the cost of this product out of here. thks Lets keep this about your thoughts of the reason this was developed. Is it really going to keep us from breaking the belts?? Did anyone get to run one last yr? I'm very interested in the product just need to here product disscusion. Thks again
 
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As good of an idea this may be, I'm not sure this solves a problem that is there. I would think simple video (read go pro) footage of the belt under various conditions and dynamics (read, not just on a stand) show if the belt is actually flexing and ballooning thus showing a need for the product. I have yet to see such a video. Although considering I'm on my forth belt in 400 miles it's something I'm definitely thinking of doing on my own and definitely before I spend any money on this product or a similar one.

PV
 
I would think simple video (read go pro) footage of the belt under various conditions and dynamics (read, not just on a stand) show if the belt is actually flexing and ballooning thus showing a need for the product.

PV

That's exactly what he did.
 
Pro Belt Tensioner minus $

It says only puts 1 lb force on belt? Isnt the belt banjo sting tight? Its suppose to keep it from heat ballooning, wellllll unless its on a spring it wont take up any expansion slack at all.

I think the c3 and cmx ones work cause its a better belt and it has more of a bend to the belt around the tensioner.
 
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I see how a light spring holding the tension against the loose side of the belt could follow the belt from tight to loose back to tight. But when tensioner is solid and were saying that the belt develops enough slack to cause problems?? Don't follow how it keeps it tight or from rolling up under throttle drop and back into throttle??
 
Timing belt


Belt-drive cog on a belt-driven bicycle
Timing belts, (also known as toothed, notch, cog, or synchronous belts) are a positive transfer belt and can track relative movement. These belts have teeth that fit into a matching toothed pulley. When correctly tensioned, they have no slippage, run at constant speed, and are often used to transfer direct motion for indexing or timing purposes (hence their name). They are often used in lieu of chains or gears, so there is less noise and a lubrication bath is not necessary. Camshafts of automobiles, miniature timing systems, and stepper motors often utilize these belts. Timing belts need the least tension of all belts, and are among the most efficient. They can bear up to 200 hp (150 kW) at speeds of 16,000 ft/min.
Timing belts with a helical offset tooth design are available. The helical offset tooth design forms a chevron pattern and causes the teeth to engage progressively. The chevron pattern design is self-aligning. The chevron pattern design does not make the noise that some timing belts make at certain speeds, and is more efficient at transferring power (up to 98%).
Disadvantages include a relatively high purchase cost, the need for specially fabricated toothed pulleys, less protection from overloading and jamming, and the lack of clutch action.


Its the damn polaris belt, should have just gone with a gates.
 
Its the damn polaris belt, should have just gone with a gates.

All of the above may be true and it may very well be the polaris belt, but of all those examples none of them come anywhere close to dealing with the dynamic input and stresses the drive belt sees just running down the trail before getting to the hills. Really not comparing apples to apples.

PV
 
Gates is the mfg of the quick drive belt..

All of the above may be true and it may very well be the polaris belt, but of all those examples none of them come anywhere close to dealing with the dynamic input and stresses the drive belt sees just running down the trail before getting to the hills. Really not comparing apples to apples.

PV
 
LP, not sure it there was confusion with the post you quoted but I was referring to the timing belts listed in the previous post and the forces applied to them when saying it really wasn't comparing apples to apples. Was not referring to C3 or other vs. Polaris belts. Those obviously have the same force input.

Again, If I saw a video of belt ballooning actually happening, I'd be first in line to order one. If I haven't seen one by the time I starting riding I'll do my own and be sure to post it up. Regardless of the result. Yes, No, or inconclusive.

PV
 
Gates is the mfg of the quick drive belt..

"IF" the QD is indeed made by Gates (I have my doubts). It is made to Polaris' specifications which are not even in the ball park to the quality of Gates' standard off the shelf Carbon belt, which is half the price of the Polaris belt by the way. The QD is a ancient tooth profile circa the '50's and '60's and vastly inferior to the newer Gates G2 tooth form.
 
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This is how you select belts and sprockets from the dodge pt catalog for timing belts, when i was in school we used this to calculated v belt pully systems but it was 6 years ago.

Seems like polaris should be able to do these calculations, they should have the values! that being said they probably did not have the service factor high enough because if it was from ballooning they would have added an idler as well as they didnt say they made it less prone to heat ballooning from the 13-14 belt, but they made the belt stronger in which it wasnt strong enough for the load what was being put threw it. they state 25% stronger at hot and 40% at milder heat.

dodge pt cateloge.jpg dodge pt cateloge 2.jpg
 
LP, not sure it there was confusion with the post you quoted but I was referring to the timing belts listed in the previous post and the forces applied to them when saying it really wasn't comparing apples to apples. Was not referring to C3 or other vs. Polaris belts. Those obviously have the same force input.

Again, If I saw a video of belt ballooning actually happening, I'd be first in line to order one. If I haven't seen one by the time I starting riding I'll do my own and be sure to post it up. Regardless of the result. Yes, No, or inconclusive.

PV

That was bad quoting on my part. I ment to reply to sledneck_03, guess I clicked wrong haha.

I'd love to see some slowmo video of the belt system. Would really love to know what's happening for sure.
 
This is how you select belts and sprockets from the dodge pt catalog for timing belts, when i was in school we used this to calculated v belt pully systems but it was 6 years ago.

Seems like polaris should be able to do these calculations, they should have the values! that being said they probably did not have the service factor high enough because if it was from ballooning they would have added an idler as well as they didnt say they made it less prone to heat ballooning from the 13-14 belt, but they made the belt stronger in which it wasnt strong enough for the load what was being put threw it. they state 25% stronger at hot and 40% at milder heat.

I'm not super knowledgeable with belt design, but are you saying the issue was purely a weak belt issue then?
 
I'm not super knowledgeable with belt design, but are you saying the issue was purely a weak belt issue then?

If you think about it, they are saying 25% stronger at hot, 40% at warm, nothing stated about resistant to heat stretching. Also that belts damn tight, how much does it stretch? 1/8"? Cause i doubt its that much. So that being said if it does balloon a tiny bit this tensioner is suppose to keep full wrap on the top sprocket? Cause if not its shearing teeth? Then why does the cmx one have an internal tensioner that there is less belt wrap on the top sprocket than the stock polaris? I cant see this huge heat ballooning causing the belt to balloon out even close to the angle and wrap the cmx has. So in that case its a weak belt in my opinion.

If you think they need so much tension why on a motorcycle they need to be so loose that when the suspension bottoms out you dont break the belt? Those circumstances i can understand tensioners cause you need to run the belt so loose.
 
IMO I think its a break in issue. I put 1100 miles on mine last year with no issues. First two rides I took it easy stopped often and let the belt cool. I hit stumps, rocks, you name it under the snow throughout the season at wot. Enough to lose quite a few paddles off my track and no issue. A friend of mine from thefirst ride was riding it balls to the walls with the break in process not even in the back of his mind, rode it like he stole it from day one. Wouldn't you kmow it he lost a belt at around 500 miles. Coincidence? Maybe, but I doubt it.
 
IMO I think its a break in issue. I put 1100 miles on mine last year with no issues. First two rides I took it easy stopped often and let the belt cool. I hit stumps, rocks, you name it under the snow throughout the season at wot. Enough to lose quite a few paddles off my track and no issue. A friend of mine from thefirst ride was riding it balls to the walls with the break in process not even in the back of his mind, rode it like he stole it from day one. Wouldn't you kmow it he lost a belt at around 500 miles. Coincidence? Maybe, but I doubt it.

Friend of mine broke his in, not sure if fully, blew it on the trail up the hill. Put a new one on, didnt break it in, still running strong. Its weird.
 
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