Priming the M1000 Fuel Rail

[Arctic Thunder]

So last year I had to work pretty hard to get the fuel pressure needed to get my Twisted Race Gas Turbo M1000 to fire on those cold days. Sometimes I felt like had rode a good 25 miles and I had just got off the trailer. So this summer I worked on a jumper wire and a plan to get my fuel pressure up prior to even pulling it over. I did have one pull rope failure last year, and didn't want to have another.

So here is a short clip I put together.

Thunder

M1000 Fuel Rail Prime

 

[Snopro_69]

Yup deal with this same thing on my 8. Was told you gotta be pulling it over 3000rpm to make enough voltage to run the higher amp race gas pump. Makes sense to me. You can wire diodes into the circuit to direct all the voltage to fuel pump on the pulls till it fires (I've bin told) Haven't done it yet but going to dig into it soon. Coldest I've ever rode in Revy this weekend and forgot my battery and jumper. (Never needed it here, just back home) Just about died getting Er going in -20 in the ams haha.

 

[INDEEP]

Thanks for making the video!

 

[rusty rider]

Great video, thanks

That was a very simple and effective solution for the high flow in tank style pump.


I ended up switching over to ovs style fuel system for this year, keeps stock pump in tank which plugs into stock location so with very low power it immediately starts building pressure. Then in line pump outside tank delivers more fuel at higher boost.


Either way getting that fuel pressure @40lbs right off the bat is sweet, even with the ovs system there will be at least 3 or full pulls roughly to get gauge up there.

 

[vigorcs90]

Been there did that. Be very careful putting battery power to the pump. I put a momentary switch to power up the pump. Hit the button and burned up my ECU. Diodes could work or a 2 position switch would be even safer.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Been there did that. Be very careful putting battery power to the pump. I put a momentary switch to power up the pump. Hit the button and burned up my ECU. Diodes could work or a 2 position switch would be even safer.

I found out that you don't want to try and splice into the pump power supply. Like you said it will back feed things you don't want to put power to. Like the ac/dc rectifier. I fried one of those, cost me $5 at Radio Shack and was good to go. But to be 100% safe I cut the wire and do a complete disconnect so their is no chance of 12v power going back into the sled.

Thunder

 

[BigAir]

I accidentally back fed my '08 TM1000 when trying to prime the fuel pump. Forgot which wires went to the pump and to the power supply. I popped the fuse, but after replacing the fuse the sled fired right up and acts fine. Do I have anything to worry about?

 

[Sparx]

Why not use a 9V battery just for the prime? That's what OVS has setup for me on the propane system using a NOS solenoid to bring liquid from the tanks to the vaporizer. Just make the harness same as you did but you won't have to bring a 12V supply around, just a couple 9V batteries like me even in the sled with you Gonna try this on the M1200T even though it's OVS setup with Cutler fuel system and fires up great so far. One thing that helped my stock M1000 setup was just cracking the throttle even just a hair, massive difference in compression felt at pull cord and ease of firing. About half the pulls.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

I tried a single 9v, and it would run the pump to about 20psi and stall out. Not enough amps to keep it running. I then tried the 6v batteries. the large ones like the old flash lights used. Again not enough. So I pulled the 12v battery out of my four wheeler that is going to sit all winter anyway, and it works awesome. I hook it up, start the sled, let it idle for a minute or two, shut it down, switch the wires and away I go. This past weekend I thought, na warm enough (25deg) so I left the 12v at the cabin. took me 10 or more pulls. I am beginning to wonder if my coil is starting to fail.

Thunder

 

[Polarisrocks]

You guys are really over thinking this.. Put a primer in and be done.. use the return line off your fpr as its low pressure and tap you throttle bodies for a 1/16 fitting.. done. the primer has a anti back feed so the boost will not leak into the system.. simple

 

[Arctic Thunder]

You guys are really over thinking this.. Put a primer in and be done.. use the return line off your fpr as its low pressure and tap you throttle bodies for a 1/16 fitting.. done. the primer has a anti back feed so the boost will not leak into the system.. simple

I thought about doing this the next time I change reeds.

Old school sometimes is best.

Thunder

 

[Tonysnoo]

You guys are really over thinking this.. Put a primer in and be done.. use the return line off your fpr as its low pressure and tap you throttle bodies for a 1/16 fitting.. done. the primer has a anti back feed so the boost will not leak into the system.. simple

Yup, primers rock!

I never thought of using the return line as a source. My return just sprays in above the fuel level for most of the ride, but it would be nothing to put a hose on it to the bottom of the tank.

 

[NorthernPike]

Hey Arctic Thunder - nice little solution.
Where did you get the insulating blanket for the turbo and the bolts in place of exhaust springs at the y pipe. I am tired of fighting springs and that looks like just the thing

 

[Polarisrocks]

Just an up date after a season with the primer.. I only had to use it once.. I tried it a few times and the sled wont start cold until the 3rd pull no matter what. It must have something to do with the injectors and fp getting the 1st juice from the 1st couple pulls. Once its warm or semi warm it starts 1st pull. Nice to have a back up when its realllllly cold though..