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Primary springs

couple ?'s, trying to learn about clutches, I have a 13pro, took apart the drive and driven clutch, cleaned the sheaves with super fine pad, amazing how much dust comes off them, cleaned everything hot soapy water, plus belt and spare, I would like to change out primary spring, stock is 140/330, Dealer has Team 165/344, I'am 200 plus gear, does body weight matter for spring choice, or does this just move power band, no mods to sled, or should i just buy a nice Team 140/330 spring, thanks in advance. have to say just cleaning everything, I think that alone is going to make a difference plus setting up belt on sheave correct. thanks again.
 
The SLP blue/pink is a decent substitute for the stock spring.
I'm not a clutching expert either, but I have learned that you cannot usually make one change like a stiff primary spring without having to make other changes to compensate. The stock clutching on the pro is pretty damn good and not worth messing with unless your looking for something specific.... there will almost always be a trade - off.
Your doing a good thing by inspecting and cleaning your clutches, and replacing springs, chances are you will notice the new spring as they get sacked out quickly!
 
couple ?'s, trying to learn about clutches, I have a 13pro, took apart the drive and driven clutch, cleaned the sheaves with super fine pad, amazing how much dust comes off them, cleaned everything hot soapy water, plus belt and spare, I would like to change out primary spring, stock is 140/330, Dealer has Team 165/344, I'am 200 plus gear, does body weight matter for spring choice, or does this just move power band, no mods to sled, or should i just buy a nice Team 140/330 spring, thanks in advance. have to say just cleaning everything, I think that alone is going to make a difference plus setting up belt on sheave correct. thanks again.

go slp blue pink, its rated at 140/340. gives a bit more revs wide open.
 
springs

Don't get the stock spring it sucks, get either the SLP blue/pink or green/pink, you'll probably like the blue/pink more cause it has a lower/smoother engagement. Or you can get the Team bright green spring.
All of these are better than stock & will give you more rpms than stock.
 
The 600 spring works too and is 120/340 and the Assault is 120/320 I believe. The Pro has a pretty rough engagement and lowering the initial pressure will lower the engagement RPM slightly which can help when trying to get out of stucks or loading on a truck deck. You may want to do some other clutching to get the most out of a spring change.
 
Was also thinking giving primary a good bath. How long does spring last before sag out. Mine is 2011 with 1200 miles.
 
One thing to be aware of is that you want to keep the same spring "rate" meaning you can't just look at initial and finish rates! There's another thread about this that I will try to link. I'm looking for the same rate as stock but with a lower initial rate as mine is too harsh and I'm going to put in teflon washers to prevent spring binding (mine actually BROKE last year as have many others - another thread about this is on Snowest). Should I be looking at the SLP blue pink? Here's a link to the spring washers which EVERYONE who owns a Pro should consider because of spring binding!
http://www.thunderproducts.com/glide_washer.htm

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
The Thunder products shims are indeed a must have!
I think the spring bind is what leads people to think one spring or another is "junk" because they have had snapped springs ruin their days. This doesn't happen with the Thunder shim(s) installed.
 
Just remember with a glide washer on both ends changes the initial and finish rates. I run a team 120/310 with two glide washers, one on each end. I love the current engagement now.
Also running CPC adjustables.
 
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