How to bring the belt to the top at full shift. Running a 09 m8 and belt is staying 1/2 inch from top. Do I need to get the spider shimmed/remove?
Primary Clutch
- Thread starter putty cat
- Start date
F
frock
Well-known member
You can mark the face of the primary shieves with a black felt pen with a line all the way out to the top edge of the clutch and then take a long enough run across some flat ground that the sled is wound right out then stop and see how far up the face your belt has gone by where the felt pen line ends.
F
frock
Well-known member
I am not sure I agree with frock on the "only" way is to gear down. I think you can get much closer to full shift out than most people get.
My buddy has a stock M7 getting 42mph track speed in the deep, meahwhile 3 other M7s in the group only get 36mph. I am pretty sure his clutches are shifting out farther than the rest of us, but probably still not all the way. We are in the process of figuring out what component of his wacky clutch setup is helping him out.
My buddy has a stock M7 getting 42mph track speed in the deep, meahwhile 3 other M7s in the group only get 36mph. I am pretty sure his clutches are shifting out farther than the rest of us, but probably still not all the way. We are in the process of figuring out what component of his wacky clutch setup is helping him out.
Check your primary spring for paint worn off near the spider. It may be binding and preventing full shift out. You can grind or machine a little out of the spider and clutch cover to let the spring grow a little when it is fully compressed without binding.
A little off the topic but i have a 06 m7 and today while riding it starting toping out at 50mph at 7800 rpms it seemed like it was hiting a rev limiter or something??? Any one had this happen to them?
You only shim the spyder to change the belt-sheave clearance with the belt all the way down in the primary.
If you want to see your belt all the way up the primary you need to hold it open longer. 80 or 90 mph should do it depending on what gears you have. boondocking and hill climbing you will never see full shiftout.
Thanks for all the info, I marked the faces of the clutch and seen it wasn't fully shiftin out. Would anyone know the belt to sheave measurement? And how much r u guys machineing out
secondary spring/ helix angle combo could be off.
i like a steepest helix that i can turn with a spring that i wont smoke the belt or screw my backshift. it will shift up quick then! Mine runs to the top but that could be just at the start while running the hill. your clutches have to back shift so maintain your peak rpm so (marking with a felt pen even though i have done it lots).... you could hitting full shift while running the hill. in a climb your clutches most likely are running half and half which is where im told they should be. But if you think about it, at 42MPH track speed in a climb holding rpm there is no way your belt is running at the top of the primary. Sounds impossible to me!! If your primary was at full shift out then so does your secondary and you would be seeing alot more track speed than 42MPH!
i like a steepest helix that i can turn with a spring that i wont smoke the belt or screw my backshift. it will shift up quick then! Mine runs to the top but that could be just at the start while running the hill. your clutches have to back shift so maintain your peak rpm so (marking with a felt pen even though i have done it lots).... you could hitting full shift while running the hill. in a climb your clutches most likely are running half and half which is where im told they should be. But if you think about it, at 42MPH track speed in a climb holding rpm there is no way your belt is running at the top of the primary. Sounds impossible to me!! If your primary was at full shift out then so does your secondary and you would be seeing alot more track speed than 42MPH!
