Hey im doing my own tunnel wrap on my sled this weekend and curious to see what others have been using to clean/prep the tunnel with before install? Also, is it best to use a "wet" install similar to window tinting with a soapy water and squeegie?
Prepping tunnel before wrapping?
- Thread starter mtn_klimer
- Start date
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insomniac62
Well-known member
Mine was dry apply as well. Clean really well with soap then alcohol. This time of year you shouldn't have to worry but make sure the tunnel isn't cold. A good vinyl will peel and restick several times.
I've done mine wet and found it worked great, as far as tunnel prep SCS has a great section on there website on installs, they also have a home made receipe for prep cleaner solution. be sure and post some picks when your done.
SCS?
thanks for the input guys. Think I might just put it on dry. Just getting eome sheets of gloss black vinyl and doing it myself. Will post pics when done. Starting the transformation of project Black N Blue!
S
SU27
Well-known member
Wrap on tunnels doesn't stay long, but you can extend wrap lifetime by making sure you apply it on WARM, CLEAN surface - soapy water, and alcohol wipe then. Instead of alcohol I used grease/wax remover for prepping surfaces for paint. Work on rivets hard - it means make another 2 passes on all rivets within 8-12 hrs after applying the wrap. Do not be afraid to puncture the film around rivets to get trapped air out. And the last thing, and very important - use 3M primer on all edges and on rivets. As well, you can apply it on whole tunnel surface where wrap goes (I did it). You can get this primer in any wrap/signs shop. You do not need crazy amount of it, so you can borrow the can of primer, and return unused portion.
Good luck!
Good luck!
S
SU27
Well-known member
one more thing - if you want wrap to stay longer, make sure you use 4 mil film, and overlaminate it too (layer of clear film).
3M usually is 2 mil film, but it is awesome to work with. Oracal is 2 to 4 mil, and much harder to work with. As well, pay attention which film you use - permanent or removable. In case of you want to remove permanent film, you are going to have fun scraping whole tunnel.
yeah, and apply it dry, even if instruction says "wet". Water (or Windex work better) are used only for peeling, and re-applying film if you need too. Tunnel is flat, so application of film is easy - you will get it done without peeling.
Again, good luck
3M usually is 2 mil film, but it is awesome to work with. Oracal is 2 to 4 mil, and much harder to work with. As well, pay attention which film you use - permanent or removable. In case of you want to remove permanent film, you are going to have fun scraping whole tunnel.
yeah, and apply it dry, even if instruction says "wet". Water (or Windex work better) are used only for peeling, and re-applying film if you need too. Tunnel is flat, so application of film is easy - you will get it done without peeling.
Again, good luck
one more thing - if you want wrap to stay longer, make sure you use 4 mil film, and overlaminate it too (layer of clear film).
3M usually is 2 mil film, but it is awesome to work with. Oracal is 2 to 4 mil, and much harder to work with. As well, pay attention which film you use - permanent or removable. In case of you want to remove permanent film, you are going to have fun scraping whole tunnel.
yeah, and apply it dry, even if instruction says "wet". Water (or Windex work better) are used only for peeling, and re-applying film if you need too. Tunnel is flat, so application of film is easy - you will get it done without peeling.
Again, good luck
I just got a couple sheets of black black vinyl from my graphics guy. Its oracal intermediate. I asked him about laminating it and he didnt think I would need it and was a little harder to work with in tight corners. Kinda still debating if I shoulda had him laminate it but its too late now! I think it shoulr hold up fine. If it dont ill just peel it off and redo it
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Flygti32
Well-known member
I wrapped about 6 tunnels last year for some guys. I used 3M 1080 series scotchprint films.A dry install with some heat and this film will conform to almost anything. I noticed this year that they have a whole new line of colors and camo prints out. Headed down to SEMA in Vegas in early Nov to check it all out.
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SU27
Well-known member
Yes, if it is 3D (carbon fiber or so), it does not require overlaminate. if you have PRINTED film, yes, you must do it - more for UV protection against colors fading. Yellow fades first, then cyan, then magenta, and then black.
I hope we are going to see some pictures
G
gman086
Well-known member
I did an Arctic FX tunnel wrap and it was a major fail when trying to apply dry. I used "Sticker On" wet spray (contrary to directions saying to apply dry) and it went on beautifully with NO air bubbles after a simple squeegie using a credit card. There's no freakin way I try the dry method ever again! The Sticker ON did not affect adhesive bond strength either (once allowed to dry overnight). Very happy thanks to Sticker ON!
Have FUN!
G MAN
Have FUN!
G MAN
