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Pre season prevenative maintenance

ridgeclimber

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I have an 08 800 t dragon. I have had the pistons updated and reflashed. Chain case gearing, tensioner, cover updated. I have replaced the left front motor mount bolt. Throttle body boot and plate has been done. And I have had the voltage regulator replaced. The voltage regulator did not fail but it looked like on the back side of the regulator it had been getting hot so I changed it out. Hyfax has been changed. The chain case oil, chain tension has been adjusted. The fuel filter is good and old fuel has been suck out. I am just trying to do everything I can to prevent any know problems or break downs. Is there anything else that you guy's can think of that might need to be a done? I looked at the back side of the ecm for any signs of it getting hot but it looked good, so I put it back on. Better board have been installed. Thanks for any feed back.
 
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check your torque stop make sure it is adjusted right, i think thats part of the reason why all the motor mounts are breaking. Clean the sh*t out of exhaust valves and clutches thats all of i can think of.
 
Now that you say that. The motor mount bolt was not all that tight and the torque stop was out of adjustment. So I am guessing it wouldn't of been long and it would of broke. Does anybody know of any other electrical issue to check. How do you check the stator or ecm. Have they been an issue or just run it till it does?
 
not overly common but it does happen to a few percent apperently, as well as the clutch side oil check valve popping out.
 
i have a 08 700 had a broken motor mount. Check everything fuel lines water lines loose nuts snd bolts clutches track tension. Have you changed your fuel filter. Ski alighnment skags , i look at everything this way im ready for the snow. Everyone laughed at me when i started checking over my seld a month ago but i ended up having to pull the motor and replacing a few things so im glad i didnt wait till a week before the season started.
 
Where is this oil line check valve that can pop out? Why did you have to pull the engine? What was the problem? Yes I change the fuel filter at the end of last season. I took the filter off again and blew through it just to make sure it was ok.
 
i had to pull the motor to fix the motor mount bolt. Still stuck inside the bulk head. the reason i noticed this was because my steering post was rubbing on my oil tank. I was just checking everything over. I was told bent steering post so you pretty much have to pull the motor but it ended up being my oil tank slipped out of place and that was a simple fix but i also had some play up and down in my steering post si i was told it was the bushings replaced and still have play but all in all it wasnt bad . If you had a broken motor mount make sure and replace the torque stop it gets pretty torn up from the motor
 
Driver wear (especially stock ones), Steering Post cracks/break, worn wiring around steering post, shock re-build or atleast oil change/re-charge, Good grease in skid and shaft bearings, coolant plumbed to turbo, clean belt dust from intake & charge tube & throttle bodies, Turbo oil/filter, water wetter in coolant, carbides, ski alignment, consider extra rubber hood tie down straps (Holz).

Check your safety and survival gear as well as any tools and parts you carry. Good luck. EW
 
Where is this oil line check valve that can pop out? Why did you have to pull the engine? What was the problem? Yes I change the fuel filter at the end of last season. I took the filter off again and blew through it just to make sure it was ok.

check valve is for the crank end pto bearing, ive had mine pop out so i locktited it in to get me thru the end of the season but and going to get a new case, a buddy of mine went to polaris training a few months back they said its common so they replace the top case half.
 
hey another thing you should do is buy some silicone and seal all gaps where any air can pass through in the intake. around the head light, the cover on the inside of hood that the air horn is mounted too. there are a lot of small gaps that aren't totally sealed from factory and doing so just might save your motor from getting unfiltered air or snow/water in there.
 
on the torque stop i have been told just snug to the case not tight just bearly touching and ive been told 10-20 thousanths slp recommends snug and i think polaris recommends 10 thousanths. i had to replace mine because of a broken motor mount and there was a little tit in it not sure if all had this or a flaw but im cutting it off because its about 30 thou. im going just lightly touching. let me know if you get better info
 
Owners manual said between 10 and 30 thou with the clutches properly aligned. I snugged it up and then backed it off slightly as suggested, 25 thou of clearance so I left it at that
 
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