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Pre-Season Gut-Check + Questions for an '11 Ski-Doo Rev XP PTek

I've been backcountry snowmobiling for 2 years and in that time I've noticed an approach to snowmobiles which is buy them, then break them or sell them before they break, and then get a new one. I am an avid DIY automobile mechanic, so that mentality just really doesn't sit well with me. A saying that has always stuck with me is "engines don't just die, they are killed". That is my $0.02 but I am curious to see what other riders here who do their own maintenance or have lots of sled experience think.

I am getting ready to do my pre-season work on my '11 Ski-Doo Rev XP PTek which has ~3,500 miles on it. Lots of that is trail riding for backcountry ski access, and lots of that is powder riding/sidehilling/etc. Not much fully pinned hill climbing.

My questions/check-list:

- Compression is just under 90 PSI on both cylinders, the internet tells me that this is low and that I am due for a top-end rebuild. When I got this sled 2 years ago, it was the same PSI and I took it to a local non-dealer mechanic everyone swears by and he said the compression was totally fine. It rides like a monster still and only very occasionally won't go into reverse but that doesn't happen very often. I am inclined to not do a top-end rebuild as I haven't seen any degredation of pressure over the last 2 seasons and the sled still rips. Am I risking piston slap when running at temp? Any others issues I may be getting myself into?

- I am going to add IsoFlex grease to the crank side bearing which I have seen recommended numerous times as this seems to be the main failure mode for these engines. This is right around the time I should be doing this job and not doing it can be catastrophic.

- Replacing my fuel filter, fuel pickup, cleaning my carbs, and checking reed valves. Replacing spark plugs. Ensuring adequate fuel delivery will only help extend the life of this engine.

- Lack of oil delivery could certainly kill this thing, are there any components I should replace on the oil delivery side of things as good insurance?

- Coolant flush, chaincase oil replacement, grease the skid.

- Replacing front end components, there is a lot of slop in my ski bushing, tie rod ends, other connecting front end hardware, etc.

- For whatever reason I am not getting power to the grip heaters, can I directly hardwire this with a switch from my stator or some other 12V source? Any recommendations?

Things I did last season:

- Replace a broken motor mount and align the clutches.

- Replace my throttle cable (holy crap was that a pain).

Any insights, comments, or recommendations are very much appreciated!
 
Well you sir, are someone I would listen to. Thanks for the heads up. Cautious I will be, maybe I'll do my work and then sell it? Maybe I'll do my work and then just see what happens....
if it was "ME"..
I would pre-emptively do the top end.
But I just do NOT want to be stranded in the back country.
So its a matter of risk avoidance.

if your cylinder pressure remains STRONG, then you just might get away with even more miles.!!
 
IDK the motors in that era. I had been running 2002's up to the time I got a new 850, and that seems to be a whole different animal.

But if there was one weak point in the 2002 motors, it was without a doubt - the greased bearings.

I pulled the seals out and drilled the jugs like old skewl and that solved my bearing issues.
I tied it up at least 2wice before going the drilled jugs route.

I have no clue if that is an option for the newer motors or not?
But if you have greased bearings, I would for sure take it apart and shove some grease in there!

If I didn't go the drilled route, I was also thinking about drilling and tapping a 1/4" pipe plug in the bottom of the case so that I could shove some grease in there every cpl years w/o splitting the motor.
IDK if anyone's done that or not.


90# sounds awfully low to me.
At what altitude are you running this check?

Up to 150# should be good.
I've had 2 strokes quit starting when they git that low.


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