Pre filter for nosepan vents

[Newfusion900]

I'm getting tired of cleaning all of the snow out from in front of the radiator. It gets so bad that it pops the clean out door off of its hinges and against the pipe. Was wondering if there is a pre filter kit for this or if I will have to make my own. If you guys have done this yourself and had good success with it could you take a few pics and let me know what and how you used it. Thanks.

 

[faulk222]

i (and most of us ) do not have a front rad my cleanout door is left off for air flow for just that reason snow blockes the rad and no air flow means no cooling in turn means overheating



if you run trails like this (rad removed) scratchers are required without them i see temps over 200 on the trail

 

[Newfusion900]

I am going to keep my radiator because I would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. I am not concerned about weight or anything just want to keep the snow out.

 

[heavy d]

Instead of the rad delete option, what I have read a ton of guys have done, is change the plumbing on th front rad so that it is not "paralleled" with the rear cooler. Instead plumb it in "series" with the rear

 

[Newfusion900]

Instead of the rad delete option, what I have read a ton of guys have done, is change the plumbing on th front rad so that it is not "paralleled" with the rear cooler. Instead plumb it in "series" with the rear

I plan on doing that but right now I just need to get some ideas on how to stop the snow from coming in the vents and still have it look decent.

 

[towmaster]

Instead of the rad delete option, what I have read a ton of guys have done, is change the plumbing on th front rad so that it is not "paralleled" with the rear cooler. Instead plumb it in "series" with the rear

whats the proper way/steps on doing this n how much does it help for a trail/boondocker

 

[Danbot]

I plan on doing that but right now I just need to get some ideas on how to stop the snow from coming in the vents and still have it look decent.

At one point before I removed my rad I had this problem too, I found that SLP's prefilter material blocked too much airflow for the rad to do anything, ended up using 2 layers of screen door screen hot glued to the inside of the nose pan vents.

whats the proper way/steps on doing this n how much does it help for a trail/boondocker

It helps in any situation really.
The problem is that, coming from the pump the 900 coolant system has 2 separate circuits. One is the heat exchanger at the rear of the tunnel, the other is the rad loop. liquid is lazy and will take the path of least resistance... this is the rad loop since it is so much shorter and closer to the pump. It's logical to say that in stock form a larger portion of the coolant flows through the rad loop which is honestly pretty ineffective unless no snow is blocking air flow to the rad, and you are sustaining very high speeds all the time.

What you want to do is re-arrange some hoses so that as the coolant returns from the heat exchanger loop it passes through the rad, joining the 2 sperate loops into one long continuous loop.... 100% flow to both the heat exchanger, and the rad. A quick search did not get me the picture I had seen once of this procedure. If someone doesn't chime up with instructions, I can probably make one up.

 

[towmaster]

At one point before I removed my rad I had this problem too, I found that SLP's prefilter material blocked too much airflow for the rad to do anything, ended up using 2 layers of screen door screen hot glued to the inside of the nose pan vents.


It helps in any situation really.
The problem is that, coming from the pump the 900 coolant system has 2 separate circuits. One is the heat exchanger at the rear of the tunnel, the other is the rad loop. liquid is lazy and will take the path of least resistance... this is the rad loop since it is so much shorter and closer to the pump. It's logical to say that in stock form a larger portion of the coolant flows through the rad loop which is honestly pretty ineffective unless no snow is blocking air flow to the rad, and you are sustaining very high speeds all the time.

What you want to do is re-arrange some hoses so that as the coolant returns from the heat exchanger loop it passes through the rad, joining the 2 sperate loops into one long continuous loop.... 100% flow to both the heat exchanger, and the rad. A quick search did not get me the picture I had seen once of this procedure. If someone doesn't chime up with instructions, I can probably make one up.

right on well my oem polaris pistons are gona be in next week n the motor is comen out so this would be the best time to do this if its not a problem to get a step by step id love to get it off u or any one that nows this

 

[sno_mo_racer]

right on well my oem polaris pistons are gona be in next week n the motor is comen out so this would be the best time to do this if its not a problem to get a step by step id love to get it off u or any one that nows this

Here is a diagram of the dead loop removal.

Cut hose 6 to fit with 34, use a pipe to connect, I used a straight copper pipe for that, sorry don't remember the size, just take a piece of hose with you to the store and find the right diameter. And for #4-30 connection I used a 90* copper elbow. I remember the diameter piping I used was a bit tight fit for the hose which is good because less chance of it coming off or leaking. Then use the hose clamps to finish it off. Also for the hose #6 where it connects to the bottle find something to plug the hose, cut just enough hose to connect the bottle and whatever you used to block off the hose.

Make sure you connect right hose 6-34/4-30 as the front rad has a certain flow one side in the other out. If you see one that is off the sled will notice arrows for in or out flow.

Then the flow will take you from the overflow bottle-pump on engine-out engine to front rad-to track heat exchanger-rear tunnel-then back to the bottle. Then you have all heat exchangers working together instead of fighting one another.

Where as stock with the T fitting(#38) would create a dead flow from hoses 4/30/34 it would take the flow with least resistance and it would only flow from engine to front rad and back/ or engine to tunnel and back. leaving the flow that is cut off but still connected to the engine to heat up.

 

[towmaster]

DAM thats good

couldnt ask for any better thanks sno mo racer saved printed n filed

 

[Newfusion900]

Finally got the screens installed on the vents. I used aluminum window screen and folded them over the front and the inside, and painted them gray. They hold themselves in and no glue required. The pics above are the front view, inside view, and the hole above the bumper that I have to find a way to block the snow from getting in. Thanks for the ideas guys.

 

[05900]

wrap it with screen also..

 

[Newfusion900]

wrap it with screen also..

I want to try and find a way to give it some strength also, just in case a stick may find its way up there or something.