Power Commander V
- Thread starter sanderson
- Start date
I planned on running the PCV on my stock pro rmk 800 and purchased it from SLP. I later found out when I got it that there is no map out there for the stock pro engine that is for free unless you use SLPs map that is set for their single pipe. The only option to run one is to dyno your sled for about $250-300 and have a map made, but in my case I'm running 1200' in Minnesota and 9-12000' out west so getting it dynoed wouldn't be the end all be all. You would still have to adjust the map and the only way to do that is to buy an autotune or to carry around your computer on the mountain with you lol. Unless you plan on running SLP's stage kits or want to stick more money into an autotune its not worth the time or money. That's my opinion.
im running the pcv on my 800 assault
riding at sea level to 2000ft or so
no issues and i would recommend it to anyone!!!!! its a great improvement, powerwise
and you dont need a dyno to get a map!! lol
i can send you a map myself that i may, depending on your elevation that is
but its very easy to create your own map!! ive made severals
slps map is junk because its to rich with fuel! ....once you create your map for your riding style, you wont have to adjust it peroid so there is no need for an autotune
and if you want i can telll you where to buy the pcv and a map comes with it!! just pm me
riding at sea level to 2000ft or so
no issues and i would recommend it to anyone!!!!! its a great improvement, powerwise
and you dont need a dyno to get a map!! lol
i can send you a map myself that i may, depending on your elevation that is
but its very easy to create your own map!! ive made severals
slps map is junk because its to rich with fuel! ....once you create your map for your riding style, you wont have to adjust it peroid so there is no need for an autotune
and if you want i can telll you where to buy the pcv and a map comes with it!! just pm me
V
Vi-PEC Powersports
Well-known member
polaris stock mapping is perfect if you have no add-on that would alter OEM tune.DO NOT install a pc v for no reason, a piggyback system is fouling your stock ECU and when stock, you will make your sled less reliable. Manufacture spend countless hours to give you the best all around performance/reliability combo.....then you buy a piggyback and jerk around a few hours and VOILA.....?? not a chance. just my .02
So if you are making a map without an autotune or a dyno how are you figuring out anything? The PVC is set up to adjust every 250 rpms and then it also gets more complicated since it also has to be set by the % of throttle. You would have to be completely guessing if you tried to add or subtract fuel in random areas unless you had an egt gauge. Please explain how you create a map.
that right there makes me laugh gino...
after seeing stock sleds with an afrs bouncing out of range cruising down the trail... yeah, there is some good room for improvement they still have the pass EPA requirements and we all know the EPA's first thought is power and saftey
if you run slps maps on a pcv your going to see fuel numbers upwards for +40 at 8200rpm which is NOT needed....on my elevation atleast(sea level)
sled runs pig ruch on theses numbers!! slows the machine down and puts way to much fuel into the engine
i do not have an egt gauge....i no where the sled needs fuel and doesnt
, again im at sea level so i just check the plug to see how lean my sled is,i want my sled as lean as i can get it, increase the hp...we do ALOT of racing
my sled at 8200rpm on 100% throttle is set at -10(taking fuel off)
sled doesnt even get fuel till it hits 5500rpm at 15% throttle and thats only set on +2
on my whole map theres no numbers higher then +8
every number is below this
i can run this back to back and trail ride all day for miles
theres no guessing if you no what your doing....get your hands on a map that fits your riding elevation and you just work on it and eventually youll no what to adjust and not too
sled runs pig ruch on theses numbers!! slows the machine down and puts way to much fuel into the engine
i do not have an egt gauge....i no where the sled needs fuel and doesnt
, again im at sea level so i just check the plug to see how lean my sled is,i want my sled as lean as i can get it, increase the hp...we do ALOT of racing
my sled at 8200rpm on 100% throttle is set at -10(taking fuel off)
sled doesnt even get fuel till it hits 5500rpm at 15% throttle and thats only set on +2
on my whole map theres no numbers higher then +8
every number is below this
i can run this back to back and trail ride all day for miles
theres no guessing if you no what your doing....get your hands on a map that fits your riding elevation and you just work on it and eventually youll no what to adjust and not too
B
Bossman
Well-known member
Creating fuel maps
Excellent fuel maps can be created using the PCV with Autotune and NOT accepting the trims after running the sled for a test period. Autotune is only used to give the rider a view of RPM versus throttle opening and the A/F ratio at any given moment. However, you need a safe place to do the testing. A level or slightly uphill groomed trail is the best place to start. Having a long, steep hill or a deep snow meadow to test on also will insure that you can make adjustments at different throttle openings versus RPM due to heavier load if needed.
While the process is very time consuming and can be dangerous (you are staring at 3 gauges at once, sometimes at full throttle) it produces the best results. The sled should be fully warmed up, the coolant temp between 115 and 130 degrees and the pipe heated with a few short bursts. Then start down the trail slowly, remembering the first few A/F ratios at the 3 lowest RPM points above engagement. Stop the sled, hook up the laptop, make the needed adjustments at the three RPM versus throttle openings, test again to verify and if ok, move up to the next three and repeat. It works best to carry a pencil and small notepad to make notes. Forget about making any adjustments below engagement RPM and try to get an A/F ratio of 14:1 or 14.5:1 up to around 5000 RPM and then start "sliding" the A/F ratio to 12.5:1 above the point at which the power valves open around 7500 RPM. Also, don't worry about anything above 8250 when running the stock ECU. You may have to put in lighter or heavier clutch weights to get the A/F ratio set to 12.5:1 at the upper end of the RPM scale.
While Autotune seems to work great on 4 strokes anytime and on 2 stroke sleds tuned on a dyno, when used in the field, it throws up some strange fuel subtractions in the map once you download it to view. I have seen subtractions from 25% to 30% from 500 RPM to 4000 RPM at 0%, 2%, and 5% throttle openings. I believe it is a result of the Autotune trying to "correct" the A/F ratios as the engine is decelerating, but am not sure on that one. You should also keep in mind that once a map for your sled has been created in this manner, you can remove the Autotune with A/F sensor and sell it to recoup some of your investment.
Excellent fuel maps can be created using the PCV with Autotune and NOT accepting the trims after running the sled for a test period. Autotune is only used to give the rider a view of RPM versus throttle opening and the A/F ratio at any given moment. However, you need a safe place to do the testing. A level or slightly uphill groomed trail is the best place to start. Having a long, steep hill or a deep snow meadow to test on also will insure that you can make adjustments at different throttle openings versus RPM due to heavier load if needed.
While the process is very time consuming and can be dangerous (you are staring at 3 gauges at once, sometimes at full throttle) it produces the best results. The sled should be fully warmed up, the coolant temp between 115 and 130 degrees and the pipe heated with a few short bursts. Then start down the trail slowly, remembering the first few A/F ratios at the 3 lowest RPM points above engagement. Stop the sled, hook up the laptop, make the needed adjustments at the three RPM versus throttle openings, test again to verify and if ok, move up to the next three and repeat. It works best to carry a pencil and small notepad to make notes. Forget about making any adjustments below engagement RPM and try to get an A/F ratio of 14:1 or 14.5:1 up to around 5000 RPM and then start "sliding" the A/F ratio to 12.5:1 above the point at which the power valves open around 7500 RPM. Also, don't worry about anything above 8250 when running the stock ECU. You may have to put in lighter or heavier clutch weights to get the A/F ratio set to 12.5:1 at the upper end of the RPM scale.
While Autotune seems to work great on 4 strokes anytime and on 2 stroke sleds tuned on a dyno, when used in the field, it throws up some strange fuel subtractions in the map once you download it to view. I have seen subtractions from 25% to 30% from 500 RPM to 4000 RPM at 0%, 2%, and 5% throttle openings. I believe it is a result of the Autotune trying to "correct" the A/F ratios as the engine is decelerating, but am not sure on that one. You should also keep in mind that once a map for your sled has been created in this manner, you can remove the Autotune with A/F sensor and sell it to recoup some of your investment.
This is exactly what I was trying to point out without going into this much detail lol. The PCV gives you a huge variety of fuel adjustments and without the knowledge and time it takes to set up a fuel map one is playing with fire. If you don't know what you are doing you could burn up an engine by subtracting too much fuel. This is where having a dyno or a autotune would come in handy since you do not have to go out in the field and test the sled multiple times and then make small adjustments. You can make a close map as you said by using an autotune or a dyno and then make small adjustments to get more power. If you don't have the A/F ratios I have no clue how you would even begin to make a map unless you had some sort of reference point. In addition, if you just installed someone else's map it would be close, but it still would need some adjustment due to every sled having a different range for fuel pressure. I'm not saying that PCV is a bad product, in fact it is a great product, but you will have to either spend the time or money to get it adjusted properly to get all of the performance you can out of it.
Dyno Tech in New York sells PC -Vs mapped for the stock engine that are reliable and add power by making air/fuel ratios better, in particular in the mid range. These are plug and play applications for those of you looking to go this route.
The stock 2012 800 I had with all the PC V goodies wanted a bit more fuel at idle at very low throttle settings. The stock 2011 800 I had wanted the same idle improvements but really didn't any help at altitude. My Stage 3 SLP map has no +40's or other nonsense. Their stage 3 map doesn't have any silliness in it like some maps I've seen distributed. In the big picture, installing a PC V on a stock 800 2 injector engine running at altitude is not a good investment, IMHO.
