Power Commander V Issue

[NoSoup4U]

I have a 2010 M8 with the SLP single and PCV with the SLP map installed. Overall, the setup works great. The problem I have encountered is that on three occasions on the last two rides the sled has started for a split second and then died. This happens on the hill with the sled fully warmed up. The only way I have been able to get it to start again is to disconnect the PCV and reconnect the stock configuration. If I immediately turn the sled off and reconnect the PCV the sled will again starts for a split second then die. If however I ride the sled for a few minutes with the stock configuratgion, I can then reconnect the PCV and the sled works fine.

I haven't had any problems with how the sled runs with the PCV once it is started, its just that it doesn't always start.

I have checked the PCV ground and connections to the ECU a dozen times, and I can't find any problems. I have checked the plugs when this happens and they are dry so I'm not flooded. Does anyone have any ideas or is my PCV defective?

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[KSH]

Try PM'ing "scarter" on here, I believe he works for DynoJet

 

[AaronBND]

Do you have the setting enabled up in the settings that gives it more fuel at startup? If so, it's great when it is a cold start, but when it is warm it does not need this extra fuel. In my personal opinion..........the SLP map is WAY to rich! You have to remember they have to be very conservative to keep guys out of trouble. How do they do this? By making the map really fat!.

Aaron

 

[NoSoup4U]

Do you have the setting enabled up in the settings that gives it more fuel at startup? If so, it's great when it is a cold start, but when it is warm it does not need this extra fuel. In my personal opinion..........the SLP map is WAY to rich! You have to remember they have to be very conservative to keep guys out of trouble. How do they do this? By making the map really fat!.

Aaron

That could be it. It seems to always happen after going down hill (it tends to load up anyway) and I turn it off. I check this out. Thanks

 

[KSH]

I have a 2010 M8 with the SLP single and PCV with the SLP map installed. Overall, the setup works great. The problem I have encountered is that on three occasions on the last two rides the sled has started for a split second and then died. This happens on the hill with the sled fully warmed up. The only way I have been able to get it to start again is to disconnect the PCV and reconnect the stock configuration. If I immediately turn the sled off and reconnect the PCV the sled will again starts for a split second then die. If however I ride the sled for a few minutes with the stock configuratgion, I can then reconnect the PCV and the sled works fine.

I haven't had any problems with how the sled runs with the PCV once it is started, its just that it doesn't always start.

I have checked the PCV ground and connections to the ECU a dozen times, and I can't find any problems. I have checked the plugs when this happens and they are dry so I'm not flooded. Does anyone have any ideas or is my PCV defective?

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

Do you have the setting enabled up in the settings that gives it more fuel at startup? If so, it's great when it is a cold start, but when it is warm it does not need this extra fuel. In my personal opinion..........the SLP map is WAY to rich! You have to remember they have to be very conservative to keep guys out of trouble. How do they do this? By making the map really fat!.

Aaron

That could be it. It seems to always happen after going down hill (it tends to load up anyway) and I turn it off. I check this out. Thanks

The startup fuel setting can also be used to reduce fuel a certain percentage for "x" amount of seconds. you have to connected to the PCV to do this.

 

[NoSoup4U]

I just checked the program and it is not adding additional fuel at startup.

 

[KSH]

I just checked the program and it is not adding additional fuel at startup.

Did you check in "configuration" ?
Not the main map.

 

[AaronBND]

Just thinking about this and what you said. If it usually happens after going down hill, I am thinking you are way to fat at "0" throttle from like 1500 to 3500rpm's. Look at your map you have loaded and see what those numbers are for me. I know on the M1000 map from slp they are "12's" and that is ridiculous for "0" throttle.......If it is the case, make them all 0's

Aaron

 

[NoSoup4U]

I think we may be getting it narrowed down. Looking at the fuel map the only changes SLP made below 3500 rpm are at the 0% throttle position for 750, 1000, and 1250 rpm. They have added 10% fuel in those areas. If I change those back to 0 fuel added, it should start the same as the stock configuration as long as I'm not giving it any throttle - right?

They have also added 6% fuel at 0% throttle at 3750-5000 rpm range (can't remember the exact top end of the range). Wouldn't this contribute to loading up going down hill? The sled is usually running in this range coasting down hill.

Its also interesting to note that SLP does not add any fuel in the 80-100% throttle position at any rpm. At 8000-8500 they reduce fuel by 5%. Most of the adjustments are in the 5500-6500 rpm range.

 

[NoSoup4U]

Did you check in "configuration" ?
Not the main map.

Yes, in "configuration" it was not adding fuel and it was not enabled.

 

[KSH]

I think we may be getting it narrowed down. Looking at the fuel map the only changes SLP made below 3500 rpm are at the 0% throttle position for 750, 1000, and 1250 rpm. They have added 10% fuel in those areas. If I change those back to 0 fuel added, it should start the same as the stock configuration as long as I'm not giving it any throttle - right?

They have also added 6% fuel at 0% throttle at 3750-5000 rpm range (can't remember the exact top end of the range). Wouldn't this contribute to loading up going down hill? The sled is usually running in this range coasting down hill.

Its also interesting to note that SLP does not add any fuel in the 80-100% throttle position at any rpm. At 8000-8500 they reduce fuel by 5%. Most of the adjustments are in the 5500-6500 rpm range.

Yes, in "configuration" it was not adding fuel and it was not enabled.

Your on a 8 now right?
5500 to 6500 is power valve openings.
If there adding at idle it may be lean there, try going into config and doing a -10% for 20 seconds on start up.

 

[AaronBND]

I would just pull them all out and make them zero's in the "0" throttle position. At zero you are stock. You are not going to burn anything down idling at stock settings. Don't be scared man.............Usually the only place you need to add fuel is in the midrange a little and up top on a WOT pull with light mods. In fact, I am even pulling fuel from the stock map on my 1000 down in between 3500-4300. Just pig fat from the factory.........

Aaron

 

[geo]

Same issues with the SLP map and hot starting??

If you don't have their clutching, the down low numbers don't work. You'll be rich and lean bog at different spots depending on your engagement rpm and shift load.

Any how, I went to zeros below 5000rpm and added fuel at my engagement of 3200 to 3750 at 5% 10% and 20%, but not as much as they did. It seems like they add a bunch and then subtract it later?? Made no sense to me so I tuned like a boony box.

I think I'll do the same above that later and take a way from the accel. feature, cause the pistons are showing too much fuel and so is my tank LOL.

Nice contraption, but I may have to buy a $2500 weather proof laptop to take up with me LOL. Silly idea not to have tuneability on the hill. I wouldn't do it again, instead I would just buy a M1000 wiring harness and put on the Boony Box I have. They sacred me, LOL, into thinking there were some big complicated needs with the pipe, but in fact, there are only a few small, common sense changes to be made. The Boony Box would have been just fine.

Geo

 

[AaronBND]

Geo, I agree to a certain extent except I do feel like so far the PCV is more stable at different temperatures and elevations. The boondocker box would do the same, but I was always screwing with it on warmer/colder days and all our altitude changes. Just never could get it to run right all day long on the mountain without having to tweak it here and there. I did feel like I got the Attitude Box dialed in, but ended up having to run it at 36psi fuel pressure to get it lean enough down low. I am just trying this box for more or less experience, but from what I have seen so far it seems to be more consistent and reliable throughout the day on the hill.

Aaron

 

[powd3rhound]

I have similar issues with slp set up. I did y-pipe, pipe, and can along with high flow intake, blue pink spring with .030 shim behind spider, 40-36 helix and pcv. I just returned from dubois and didnt think It was up to snuff so I unplugged pcv and it was way better. was the mapping just too fat?

any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[geo]

I think they needed to sell some PC5`s and make more $ than selling a Boony Box.

You will need to richen the bottom as it was too lean there for me stock (cause I lowered my engagement). But where they added signifigant fuel amounts and subtracted it later at a slightly higher rpm, reminds me of a safe eastern, lets-try-for-200miles today, program. Who, in the mountians really rides at 20% or below trottle above 5000 rpm for any length of time, anyway. Pin it to the snow, throttle through the deep, and pin it back to the trucks.

My sled stock was plenty safe on top and i believe there was room for a bit of extra HP by cutting some fuel, but not enough to make me want to bother `cause the SLP set-up was coming (took long enough though LOL).

Happy with the pipe set. Noticable improvement on a pull. Keeps going longer and the best part is it comes back on that bit quicker, like I have a 860 now LOL.
But Im packing the PC5 back into a box 'till I can get an adjustment screen for the hills and installing the Boony Box.
I'll dial in the engagement and subtract abit from the top and let the AC map and adjustments the many sensors do (lot more reseach and developement than SLP is capable of), just do their thing.

I think the PC5 is better mousetrap in the end but if the map is too specific it is useless to me or anyone who doesn't ride with SLP clutching and like a SLP test rider.


My thoughts on hopeing that some aftermarket pckage would be perfect for me LOL.

Geo

 

[NoSoup4U]

I talked to SLP today and they said that one other customer had a similar issue and they had also seen it once on their test sled. They believe it is an intermitent ground wire issue, and recommended I change the ground from the Dynojet recommended position next to the oil tank to a location close to the steering arm that is behind and to the right (as you sitting on the sled) from the ECU. The Dynojet recommended location bolted the ground on to a brace that was bolted to the frame (the bolt went through both the brace and the frame). Where I have it bolted now is close to the steering arm with the ground between the brace and the frame, so that it makes direct contact with both. This makes sense that it could be the problem. Time will tell.

 

[RACINSTATION]

Let us know. From what I have seen I would not go back to the Boondocker from the Powercommander. It has a much wider range of "self adjusting" like the stock ECU. The biggest problem that I have had is tuning around the Timbersled or BDX intake because there are wide variances on intake temps.

 

[geo]

I got used to doing the small changes down low ( hot air from the pipe in the trees and cold air in the wide open spaces) on the fly With the Boony Box. I thought that was the reason for the quick and easy map changes it has.
I knew it was bacause of the wide low rpm spaces, but my point is, I could do it up there where I could feel the difference. It seems to me to be a need on a sled, especially if your tuning yourself, because of the huge variables in load on the motor from the snow conditions to the clutching combinations.

That said, if I was marketing a package for sale, i would use the PC5 because you have to buy it all from me ( clutching and everything), or the program won`t work quite as it should. AND, the average owner, can not screw with it on the hill when he loses to a better rider LOL.

I don`t think the Boondocker compensates less, I think it just makes the changes over a larger map area. Sometimes, this means you are changing things in spots you don`t need changes in. Finer cross sections ( maybe boony Box 3) would be better for sure. Not the best, but I was always able to find a sweet spot down low and my top ( which once set never needed adjustments for me) was where I felt was the best pull in my pants not the guy at SLP telling me what is safe for me.
After playing (pipes,ports, and clutching) with the last 4 800`s with the pipe sensor and knock sensor, I don`t think you can burn one down without an injector failure or out dutying the injector anyway. Disclaimer: bin wrong before, LOL.

I learned from the first Boondocker Box on my M7`s to double ground the box (solder a pigtail to the wire and find an other chassis bolt. So my PC5 and the hot start issue is from the prgramming and not the grounding and, I got rid of the issue making the changes I stated above.

Don`t get me wrong. The SLP programming in the PC5 is right for the guy and his sled that set it up. I`m sure he had to make it a little safe to cover the masses too. But, for me there was something better. My complaint is I had to try and make my changes from memory while watching the Olympics at my computor LOL instead of up on the hill.

Took me a week LOL, not just a day.

Geo

 

[KSH]

Let us know. From what I have seen I would not go back to the Boondocker from the Powercommander. It has a much wider range of "self adjusting" like the stock ECU. The biggest problem that I have had is tuning around the Timbersled or BDX intake because there are wide variances on intake temps.

My sled is one of them

I got used to doing the small changes down low ( hot air from the pipe in the trees and cold air in the wide open spaces) on the fly With the Boony Box. I thought that was the reason for the quick and easy map changes it has.
I knew it was bacause of the wide low rpm spaces, but my point is, I could do it up there where I could feel the difference. It seems to me to be a need on a sled, especially if your tuning yourself, because of the huge variables in load on the motor from the snow conditions to the clutching combinations.

That said, if I was marketing a package for sale, i would use the PC5 because you have to buy it all from me ( clutching and everything), or the program won`t work quite as it should. AND, the average owner, can not screw with it on the hill when he loses to a better rider LOL.

I don`t think the Boondocker compensates less, I think it just makes the changes over a larger map area. Sometimes, this means you are changing things in spots you don`t need changes in. Finer cross sections ( maybe boony Box 3) would be better for sure. Not the best, but I was always able to find a sweet spot down low and my top ( which once set never needed adjustments for me) was where I felt was the best pull in my pants not the guy at SLP telling me what is safe for me.
After playing (pipes,ports, and clutching) with the last 4 800`s with the pipe sensor and knock sensor, I don`t think you can burn one down without an injector failure or out dutying the injector anyway. Disclaimer: bin wrong before, LOL.

I learned from the first Boondocker Box on my M7`s to double ground the box (solder a pigtail to the wire and find an other chassis bolt. So my PC5 and the hot start issue is from the prgramming and not the grounding and, I got rid of the issue making the changes I stated above.

Don`t get me wrong. The SLP programming in the PC5 is right for the guy and his sled that set it up. I`m sure he had to make it a little safe to cover the masses too. But, for me there was something better. My complaint is I had to try and make my changes from memory while watching the Olympics at my computor LOL instead of up on the hill.

Took me a week LOL, not just a day.

Geo

On a point and shoot everything is spot on, It's when you pull hard in the trees let off, then grab a hand full, the air intake temp sensor does not seem to correct fast enough for the ECU to compute the drop in air temp.

That's why I will be testing with the stock silencer, to see if I can get rid of the big gulp of hot air.