power addiction heads work well

[IceCap]

Any guesses as to H.P. increase on the 13.1 head at 5-6000 ft?

 

[1200psi]

Any guesses as to H.P. increase on the 13.1 head at 5-6000 ft?

5-6 hp

 

[G-Force]

What about a head option for the IQ's? Anyone have something for us?

 

[IQRIDR]

What about a head option for the IQ's? Anyone have something for us?

This same exact head works for your motor also. I am running an identical head on my '10 monoblock'd 800 IQR (carbed 800 cfi) and my Pro.

 

[pura vida]

ok, so in youre opinion, the question on the day then becomes, how much av or race gas would you recommend to run the 13.1 and 13.6 head and sea level? what kind of power increase would you estimate then... or is that even reasonable?

(i know a lot of guys don't run at sea level, but i do!)

 

[1200psi]

ok, so in youre opinion, the question on the day then becomes, how much av or race gas would you recommend to run the 13.1 and 13.6 head and sea level? what kind of power increase would you estimate then... or is that even reasonable?

(i know a lot of guys don't run at sea level, but i do!)

You would need about 20-30 % for sea level to be safe. You would still see a huge improvement over stock.

 

[F-Bomb]

icecap the head for you is 13.6...your alt is exactly where I did my primary testing on the head with pump gas 91 non eth stock polaris exhaust. GANG please get with the times and disregard any BS about hp...it means nothing. You need to know that the money you spend will equal a certain amount of improvement from that part/mod. If you don't have proper clutching you get no gain in performance and therefore HP is irrelevant. What is important is instant throttle response, pulling improvement throughout the powerband, and eliminating the Polaris laydown bog that haunts this engine. Now lets assume you have good clutching right now. With this head your sled will require a minimum of 2 grams additional weight all other things being the same as prior to putting on this higher compression head (that is against a stock well tuned comparison vehicle). That will result in your sled gaining an average of 5 lengths or 55ft quicker/closer to a specified distance under full shift out and top vehicle speed at a given time period. IE your buggy is quicker..and can be faster if you clutch and gear accordingly.


for you ice cap..stock polaris clutching for the PRO ad one delron washer above your secondary spring and two below with the stock high alt polaris spring and team helix setup (all this is doing is increasing the tension and allowing a smoother transition IE kind of fine tuning a spring rate by shortening it slightly) if you want to go out on your own and try other springs there can be some advantages to each situation. You will run 62 gram weights easily and I suggest EPI belly busters. They have a stronger midrange profile without hurting your top end. Better for in and out boonie riding as well.

....or better yet is an off shoot of the Carls Clutch kit theory. Buy a dual angle Carl's (208-853-5550 Chris in Performance or Timmy in parts) helix run the lower angle setting with the same springs and delron washer setup. Belly Busters at 62 for you..(if you hang around alot at 5000-6500 you can pull 64 but the best overall setup is 62's on the less steep setting esp from 6500-8000ish. Mine will pull 64's but I have a track mod and only weigh 170lbs. Custom 63's is actually the perfect number for me. For loaded deep snow conditions and climbing this will be the best overall setup that you shouldn't have to mess with. As spring arrives and guys spend more time on hardpan you can go up to 64's. Load on the track is critical. THIS IS GOOD CLUTCHING THAT WILL ROCK FOR MOST OF YOU. You can also experiment with your primary spring by adding a bit more end rate pressure for higher RPM if you are a heavier rider to get to 8150-8200 max and hold there. (holding is the key..your motor is making less snort after that RPM but your clutching is allowing it to spin there if you get more r's is feels like it's faster...but it's not!)

Remember...belt conditions play a huge roll on this sled and clutching. Track tension and your valve process function also clearly comes into play. Starting with a good state of tune then adding this clutch system or theory is a winner with the POWER ADDICTION HEAD on the PRO.

Naysayers...I'm available for money racing!

 

[AndrettiDog]

This mod sounds impressive. Anyone running it with ethanol fuel? The best we have here in Colorado is 91 ethanol (10%). Good thing is that we run at a higher elevation (8k-11k). I don't want to go back to using race fuel. Too expensive and too inconvenient.

 

[1200psi]

icecap the head for you is 13.6...your alt is exactly where I did my primary testing on the head with pump gas 91 non eth stock polaris exhaust. GANG please get with the times and disregard any BS about hp...it means nothing. You need to know that the money you spend will equal a certain amount of improvement from that part/mod. If you don't have proper clutching you get no gain in performance and therefore HP is irrelevant. What is important is instant throttle response, pulling improvement throughout the powerband, and eliminating the Polaris laydown bog that haunts this engine. Now lets assume you have good clutching right now. With this head your sled will require a minimum of 2 grams additional weight all other things being the same as prior to putting on this higher compression head (that is against a stock well tuned comparison vehicle). That will result in your sled gaining an average of 5 lengths or 55ft quicker/closer to a specified distance under full shift out and top vehicle speed at a given time period. IE your buggy is quicker..and can be faster if you clutch and gear accordingly.


for you ice cap..stock polaris clutching for the PRO ad one delron washer above your secondary spring and two below with the stock high alt polaris spring and team helix setup (all this is doing is increasing the tension and allowing a smoother transition IE kind of fine tuning a spring rate by shortening it slightly) if you want to go out on your own and try other springs there can be some advantages to each situation. You will run 62 gram weights easily and I suggest EPI belly busters. They have a stronger midrange profile without hurting your top end. Better for in and out boonie riding as well.

....or better yet is an off shoot of the Carls Clutch kit theory. Buy a dual angle Carl's (208-853-5550 Chris in Performance or Timmy in parts) helix run the lower angle setting with the same springs and delron washer setup. Belly Busters at 62 for you..(if you hang around alot at 5000-6500 you can pull 64 but the best overall setup is 62's on the less steep setting esp from 6500-8000ish. Mine will pull 64's but I have a track mod and only weigh 170lbs. Custom 63's is actually the perfect number for me. For loaded deep snow conditions and climbing this will be the best overall setup that you shouldn't have to mess with. As spring arrives and guys spend more time on hardpan you can go up to 64's. Load on the track is critical. THIS IS GOOD CLUTCHING THAT WILL ROCK FOR MOST OF YOU. You can also experiment with your primary spring by adding a bit more end rate pressure for higher RPM if you are a heavier rider to get to 8150-8200 max and hold there. (holding is the key..your motor is making less snort after that RPM but your clutching is allowing it to spin there if you get more r's is feels like it's faster...but it's not!)

Remember...belt conditions play a huge roll on this sled and clutching. Track tension and your valve process function also clearly comes into play. Starting with a good state of tune then adding this clutch system or theory is a winner with the POWER ADDICTION HEAD on the PRO.

Naysayers...I'm available for money racing!

Well said Rob .

 

[Clarke673]

I have ran one of brad's heads on my 09 dragon and it in combination wiht a pcv and slp twin pipes, along with a FTX clutch kit, i would say i gained 6-8 sled lengths. The craftsman ship on the head was impressive and after i totaled my sled i sold the head to brent9k on the forums. He is running a 600r case in an iqr with a 800 top end. He noticed some gains and the sled is not finicky at all. My head was the 13.6 and i would highly recomend it. The domes are interchangable so if you change elevations you can throw a diferent dome in. I would have one on my 2011 assault but i must leave it stock for racing.

here are some pics of the head on my 09 dragon.

 

[pura vida]

i would say hp numbers are mostly irrelevant. any one number by itself really doesn't mean much but when used as an absolute change from before and after a change has been made then they do give you a relative difference. which does show if you are making progress or not. but absolutely, if you don't clutch for it you won't be getting any more to the ground. at sea level we are seeing a two gram increase with the slp pipe (66 to 68). haven't tried adding a head on top of it yet. wonder if we will get another two grams?? pulling 70 grams would be pretty impressive. although we are also splashing a little av gas into the mix since the only thing we can get up here is 90. hence the reason i am considering adding even more compression. if i have to add av gas, the pita of mixing doesn't increase by upping the av gas percentage. actually going to straight av gas would actually be much easier... the dtr setup with a high comp, more efficient head has the potential to be NASTY!

but to i really want to dump a four year warranty after just one year....