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Power addiction head

Just put one in. in Island Park on the floor (6300 feet) and 2 gallons of race gas (100 octane) the deto sensor would hit if I left it wide open for very long. Once above 7000 feet I had no problems. seemed a little snappier than stock sled I was with, but performance wise very similar. I will be riding in Utah at 10000 feet and hope to see a bigger difference. Just need more snow.
 
just put the HPS can and 13.6 head on. They said I would gain 200-250 rpm off the get go,I lost 300 rpm at 6500 ft in island park.I was running 8250 last season only change the head and can left everything else the same.I am alittle disappointed after spending the money.
 
I have the 13.1 head and can on my 2012. Had it on since new. 150 miles now and I am over-reving. Will have to throw more weight at it now. I unload from 2500-3000 ft and ride to 7000 ft. Never hit the deto sensor once. PG 91 octane. My buddy has the SLP pipe and programmer and we are about the same for power. So Yes, I think it was worth it.
 
just put the HPS can and 13.6 head on. They said I would gain 200-250 rpm off the get go,I lost 300 rpm at 6500 ft in island park.I was running 8250 last season only change the head and can left everything else the same.I am alittle disappointed after spending the money.


Try putting the stock can back on and run it with just the head once... Report back later with the results... I just read on another post that Brad at Power Addictions just ran that combo on someone's dyno with outstanding results... I know Dyno's don't mean sh!t, just sayin!!! Good luck..
 
ME AND YES!

I put around 500 miles on the Power Addiction head last season towards the end of the year. It took me a bit of time and energy to get the entire clutching, traction, exhaust, combo nailed. By the end of the year IT WAS FLAT OUT DIALED. We showed it off in Bend for Memorial Day and several hundred people saw the results. Flat out awesome for an 800 with nothing but clutching, the power addiction 13.6 head on pump gas, and a modified track. No controller and bone stock factory exhaust and can. $340 for the head, trim the track for free, and a dead on dialed clutch package for about $275 and you have an absolute pull and go standout PRO.

Keep in mind the head is a much improved design from combustion to cooling with the felt benefit being compression. At altitude of 5500 and up you need more compression. This just makes the PRO act like they do at low altitude but now we get it up high were the snow is! HEAR my words...this product flat out works and is a fantastic value for your PRO.

Remember clutching, head, track = AWESOME.
 
just put the HPS can and 13.6 head on. They said I would gain 200-250 rpm off the get go,I lost 300 rpm at 6500 ft in island park.I was running 8250 last season only change the head and can left everything else the same.I am alittle disappointed after spending the money.

You will always loose top end RPM when you increase compression, throttle response and quicker acceleration is what higher compression will give you.
 
I have the 13.1 head and can on my 2012. Had it on since new. 150 miles now and I am over-reving. Will have to throw more weight at it now. I unload from 2500-3000 ft and ride to 7000 ft. Never hit the deto sensor once. PG 91 octane. My buddy has the SLP pipe and programmer and we are about the same for power. So Yes, I think it was worth it.

So I wonder how well it would work using the 13.1 head and the SLP pipe and programmer together for 6000' to 9000'? Any ideas?
 
I buy the clutch kits components from Carl's Cycle Sales in Boise. I found out the Struther's way for Polaris works really sweet with this setup. It seems like each shop or performance company kind of has their technique normally associated with where they mostly test. Obviously different ways to skin a cat. So maybe there is even better out there? Time might tell or this might be THE WAY. Like I stated earlier by the end of the year I was absolutely thrilled with the results.

What I know is consistent RPM irregardless of conditions, a very fast sled that stands out over comparable vehicles, no after market venting needed, plus long belt life.

Here is just one remote example that was experienced:
At Bend we set up a 600ft groomed drag strip with at least another 1000ft of groomed run out. I could get the exact same RPM drag racing as I did pulling their little hill (moon mtn about 800 to 1000ft long and moderately steep in a foot plus of wet heavy un-tracked snow...on a Carl's setup 155 IQ RAW SLP single I was actually have to die-daw a bit to finish that climb that day on that IQ at 8100 RPM while the PRO was locked at 7950 and killing me by 20 lengths at the end with a 240lbs guy riding the PRO...when I was on the PRO 170lbs it was still 7950 but I was ahead so far he was still coming up when I was coming down after ticking the cornice...that is impressive in a thirty second full pull climb!) Obviously when we drag raced the two setups the distance was closer like about 10 sled lengths average as the heavy and lesser sled doesn't get handicapped as badly with packed trail conditions like it did on a hill with more resistance in the conditions.

I saw Brad's dyno report from his tests and I'd say that was pretty similar to my felt in field performance experiences of tested results. Obviously dyno stuff isn't exactly what makes the sled go fastest in the field but it sure doesn't hurt to at least start with more usable power! Getting the most from that is step two!
 
so this head drops the rpms down to 7950? is there anything to gain by adjusting the clutch to get the full 8200?
 
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Holy crap I need to work on my editorials if that is what you heard from all of that!

Drops RPM? NO (kiss answer)

The factory dyno says 7950 is the ideal torque and HP cross...sled was super fast at 7950 and like the post stated unusually consistent. Most guys want higher RPM's because their clutching wains and won't hold 7950. Most guys don't data log, have trap timers, or compare in an environment that will give you consistently accurate data. Testing is still inconclusive to see if setting up the clutching for higher RPM's creates a faster or quicker vehicle...IE we don't know for sure YET. If it becomes worth my time and energy to take it a step further I probably will. I'm still waiting for someone to come along and whip up on me in a liked class vehicle. WAITING WAITING WAITING :becky::becky::becky: (come on SLP people...let's party)
 
Liked what I've read about the PA head on the 2011 and pretty much sold but would like to hear from people running them on 2012s and if anyone is having any problems with them?
 
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