Porting my track...

[anziconda]

I know this has been beat to death, but help me out. I want to port my track tomorrow. I have a camo extreme 2.25x162 on my m10. Who has ported the same track, and what size holes, spacing, etc. was used. I'd like to hear from someone who has used theirs for a year with good results. Also, I have heard something about not to drill in front or back(can't remember which)of the paddles. Pictures would be nice. Thanks

 

[chazzer]

I've ported some tracks before and I used a 1 1/8 hole saw. You might be able to use a 1 1/4 hole saw too. I sharpened the out side of the bit but i think next time im going to sharpen the inside. The hole is a little tapperd when the bit is bevled on the out side. Use a high speed drill so it melts it way through, you dont want to cut it then threads will start to come out.

I just drilled 2 holes on the inside between the 2 drivers, just like the new ski doo tracks.

Hope this helps!

Chaz

 

[anziconda]

Thanks, anyone got pics????

 

[tundramonkey]

I ported mine a few weeks ago, so I can't really help you out on how well it works. I drilled two holes (1 1/8") behind the center paddle, not on the outside. I built a template out of plywood and then clamped that to the track. Took me about a 1/2 hour to drill out the track. I used a 1 1/8" hole saw and files all the teeth off so it was just a sharp edge all the way around. Not the best pic, but should give you the idea.

 

[TracksCanada]

Thanks, anyone got pics????

yeah I got a picture of what happens when you port too big. Check out this thread.
Fourth post down.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=828445#post828445

 

[Flit-e]

can you prove that porting was the reason that track failed?

 

[anziconda]

Thanks, I think I'll go with 2 1" holes in the center...probably won't make much of a difference from what I've heard, but I'm bored as hell this weekend and if the track fails, then I have an excuse to get a power claw.

 

[winter brew]

I do just as tundramonkey has done, ONLY behind the paddle and ONLY every other row. 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" works good on the 3.0 pitch tracks.

 

[cmantle1]

Thanks, I think I'll go with 2 1" holes in the center...probably won't make much of a difference from what I've heard, but I'm bored as hell this weekend and if the track fails, then I have an excuse to get a power claw.

yea better port it, that sled needs all the help it can get to keep up with my doo.....

 

[Reeb]

Done it to the last two tracks. Combined about 3k. Love the pattern. It's on a Extreme too.

 

[anziconda]

yea better port it, that sled needs all the help it can get to keep up with my doo.....

You're right!!! When you ride my sled it just lays there on its side and doesn't go anywhere!! I'm hoping the porting will help my countersteering pendulim perform better.

 

[TracksCanada]

can you prove that porting was the reason that track failed?

Out of all the tracks I've sold over the years (it's been a few ) the only calls I have ever got asking about warranty on a track are the ones ported. Can I prove it was the cause? Probably yes, common sence and experience would come in at this point.
If customer ever sent a track back to me I would forward to Camoplast to analysis @ customers expense. There is no warranty on a track that has been modified.

 

[sledhead699]

this is what i did the two holes are 1 1/8 and the three holes are 1 inch. it works best is you grind down your hole saw teath. this way it burns a hole thru the track inteead of cutting.cutting results in fraying and not very clean.yea it smells bad but it wirks great. i put 1100miles on this setup with no problems. keep the snow from build up in your rear skid.

 

[enis750]

ported track

mine is ported
its a challenger - 2" w 2 - 7/8" holes every pitch

 

[Mortgage Paul]

Does it matter if the wheels are rolling over the holes?

 

[AZ800]

Does it matter if the wheels are rolling over the holes?

Not on my RMK. 1 set of holes was right on the middle rear idler. No vibration and didn't shell out the bearing in 1000mi. Sled's sold now.
I went w/ 3 - 1-1/4" holes equally spaced in center belt, not staggered. Figured that kept the most cords in tact.
Used a hole saw w/ teeth on, cut quick and fairly clean.

 

[Scott]

Paulie,

I think someone who was doing a bunch of track porting for people said that if your wheels are running over the holes you'll want the rubber coated wheels. If it's bare alum...then you don't want em running over the wheels.

 

[the dude]

template

I dont have any pics but heres how i did it..
I would suggest using a piece of metal strap 1.25"-1.5" wide or whatever fits in between the rows of paddles.. cut 15"-16" long (however wide your track is so you are centered)
figure out the spacing you want with the holes, drill .25" holes for the pilot and then you can just set the strap in between paddles, clamp in place, drill the pilot holes, move to the next row(repeat 70 times).

Just be sure the holes will be where you want them!

Then once you have the pilot holes all drilled, insert hole saw and drill drill drill... i used 1.125" and .875" hole saws (use a drill with high rpm) with the teeth ground down and the end sharpened, burns through, not RIP through... 3 seasons deep and no issues!

I stil have my two hole saws.. holler if you want to use. I live in bozo, right next to MSU

THE DUDE

 

[xtralettucetomatoe580]

A little advice for any who are doing it is to make sure that you do not staggar the holes. Otherwise you end up with no strap running around the entire length of the track.

 

[colorado yamaha]

This is a 174x16x2.5, we use the same template for 15's. Derek