Polaris Pro - bog, limp mode, WOT...FIXED!

[nwm8]

Bought a used pro and wouldn't you know it would go into a full run like crap mode. This mostly happened in deep pow, ran fine on trails, usually WOT also. I read every post i could find and seems like it could be every part under the hood. A simple $12 part fixed it and i never read one post mentioning it......

EXHAUST OUTLET BOOT!

The front part of the boot was missing, exhaust would hit it and pump under the hood, especially in deep pow and wot, making it's way into the air box (maybe through the drain holes). Anyway thought I would post this because I didn't see it anywhere and not many threads end with answers.

Shout out to Carl's Cycle, one of the tech's told me to check this and I thought he was crazy. Then I noticed it really got worse when sidehilling on the exhaust side. I also noticed exhaust soot around the hood vents.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Seal the exhaust to the boot with high temp silicone.
Makes it even better.

 

[Reg2view]

The rubber boot fits like crap on the poo's, always gaps. RTV is the ticket.

If I'm not planning on pulling the can for the rest of the season, I've used just about an entire tube of copper RTV to fill the complete depression of the boot from the inside to the can - using a putty knife to level it to the top of the boot. It will never suck exhaust again, absolutely sealed, at least until you pull the can, of course. Best if done in the warm shop. Cleanup after you pull the can next time is abit of effort, but it looks and works great until then.

 

[geo]

Try a parchment paper wrap on the can before the silly s**t.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Try a parchment paper wrap on the can before the silly s**t.

Please explain.......

 

[volcano buster]

I'm guessing you wrap the outlet pipe then apply the RTV. Creates a seal without actually sticking to the pipe. I'm assuming you can remove the pipe later without having to cut and redo the RTV.

 

[geo]

I'm guessing you wrap the outlet pipe then apply the RTV. Creates a seal without actually sticking to the pipe. I'm assuming you can remove the pipe later without having to cut and redo the RTV.

Ya. Parchment paper peels off the silly s**t (high heat silicone seal) the next morning after you pull the can (don't let it burn in).

I like to cut a slightly undersize .060" aluminum sheet "donut" thingy for the inside too. Make a small hole for your exhaust drool hose on the ol' out of date Pro too. Hold it up out of the way with masking tape while you apply the silly s**t, than after you clean your hands from that crap (you always end up touching it somehow), remove tape and "smoosh" it into the right position to dry. Lick your finger and smooth the edges. Clean look lol.

While your into getting rid of un-needed exhaust gases an losing power, you could also add 3 more spring mounts to the pipe and y-pipe (like the turbo guys) and one extra on the outlet. Use extra springs too lol.
Helps keep your pipe pressure happy, belly pan cleaner and exhaust donuts live forever.

Cheap tricks from a cheap sledder.