Polaris Clutch Pullers...

[kirk]

I have three polaris sleds, two 600 twin ves and one 700 twin ves and I was thinking about servicing the clutches myself. I dont have any of the pullers but I was wondering if I need a separate tool to dissassemble the primary or if the ones that look like a long bolt are used to take the front cover and spring out??? Do all the liberty twins take the same tool?
Just looking to save a few bucks and do some of the maintenance work myself so if you have any tips that would be great..

Kirk

 

[skibreeze]

You don't need special tools unless you need to shim the belt clearance or replace or shim the buttons. Just the puller to get the clutch off. 10mm bolts to remove the cover to replace the spring.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87640

 

[kirk]

Thanks for the link.. Some great info on there.
You mentioned 10 mm bolts, are these longer than the factory ones to remove the spring?

 

[volcano buster]

The clutches are held on with a long bolt. You will remove it, then use the puller in the same hole as the retaining bolt to pop the clutch off. Once off (and maybe not as easy as it sounds), the cover can be unbolted. I'm not sure about the 10mm as the older ones had a 7/16" bolt head. I suggest finding a way to lightly clamp the cover down when you remove the bolts. The spring is pushing against the bolts and as you come close to having them come out, it can distort the angle of the cover and possibly do damage to the bushing in the center of the cover, or start to cause issues where the steel bolt threads into the aluminum towers. By clamping it down until all the bolts are removed, you can then relieve the pressure evenly letting the cover come up and off the center tube. Reverse this operation when re-bolting the cover down. I also use a sharpee to mark the cover and tower alignment so that it goes back into position the same way. Others have mentioned assigning the bolts to specific holes as they may be out of balance, but were balanced in the clutch in a certain position, so changing them could change the balance.

 

[kirk]

Thanks I ordered the puller and the clutch press.
One problem I hope to correct is my lack of top end on my 600 pro x. Already went thru the power valves and had the secondary rebuilt and neither one showed and improvement. I then tried a team secondary because I wanted to go with perc reverse and that was no different. Alignment is within spec, runs great just hits a wall about 85 on speedo. Don't usually run it up that high but I know she used to cruise past 100 no problem now my girlfriend passes me on a long straightaways........gotta fix it!!! Its a 600 prox running at sea level. Only mods are team secondary and heel clicker weights.

 

[volcano buster]

Quickest and cheapest way is taping a small block behind the throttle lever of your girlfriends throttle. You were only concerned about being beat by a girl wasn't it?

 

[kirk]

now that you mention it I do enjoy the view!!! but I dont like the snow dust clouding things up so I need to get my power back up to previous levels!!!

 

[kirk]

Well after all the typing I think I found a few things wrong. First thing I found after pulling the old Pro X out of the trailer is the torque stop rubber cap was broken so that's no good.
Second I pulled the primary off and took the top cover spring and weights off and gave it a good bath and as I was inspecting it I noticed the heel clickers have been grinding away at the spider. Is the spider something I can remove and replace, or should I consider replacing the whole clutch? The damage is similar on all three posts where the bolts go thru the weights down by the tips. Kinda like a half circle wore into the clutch. I also have either a brown or tan spring that isn't as long as it should be. If I can replace the spider do I need to have the clutch rebalanced?

 

[volcano buster]

Oh boy. I would take the clutch to someone that will give you an honest look at your clutch and not just someone that is in the business of selling the most expensive option. In the meantime, if it were me, I would start checking the local ads (Craigslist, ebay, etc.) to see if someone is advertising a take-off clutch from a new sled that they are putting easy-start on. I replaced the primary clutch last winter and got a break on parts. About a week later, I found a spankin' new primary on Craigslist for about $200 less where someone was putting easy start on the sled and the clutch couldn't have had 100 miles on it.

I would imagine after replacing all the parts that may be affected and then sending it out for a re-balance, all for a shorter life clutch, you may be better to find a new(er) one and start fresh.

 

[skibreeze]

The weights wearing the sides is normal, why they dont put in some kind of shim or washer from the factory is beyond me. When they wear, I just file it flat again and put the arctic cat weight shims. Been doing that for years.

 

[kirk]

I am thinking along the same lines as you volcano buster. I want to find a easy start kit for my girlfriends switchy 700 but her sled has just as many miles as mine so it might be wore out also, and not sure if they are interchangable besides weights and spring.
Is the Artic Cat shims sold in a kit, or do you buy them individually? My manual also says weight bushings are not replacable but not sure on these heel clickers. Mine have a little play in them also.

 

[skibreeze]

Not sure about HC weights, but the poo bushings are replaceable. SLP makes the tool and bushings. Call Michelle at oregon trail sports and she can hook you up with slp stuff and the ac shims.

 

[kirk]

I picked up some of the Artic Cat shims at the local dealer, ordered a new spring to get me by for now. looking for a replacement primary clutch for my 600 or easy start kit for my 700 and I will use that clutch on my 600.
Who makes a gold primary spring .225 wire 4" free length? Thats what my 600 pro x had in it, not a polaris spring so I cant find any specs