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PMS Kit

J

Joe57

Member
A little advice Please. I have the PMS kit installed in my 09 D8 and they put a 2010 can on it , Do I run the PCV with the slp can, the PCV stock, or not run the PCV. I don't beleive the fix cured the lean mid range. I want to run some break in miles and then sell it.I got the 2012 Pro itch.............:face-icon-small-coo
 
Sorry...just can't help myself here...who named it the PMS kit? LMAO!!! Kinda fits based on the 800's reputation (ie can't have fun with it even though it isn't technically in heat), but the only kit that ever worked for me included ibuprofen (for both parties), earplugs, and/or airline tickets:face-icon-small-sho:devil::behindsofa:

sorry I have no advice about the actual question at hand and I need to find something more productive to do with my evening...:focus:
 
if you have the most recent flash in the sled itself you may not need the PCV. The april flash added a bit of fuel in the midrange. You could benefit from subtracting fuel in the top end but if you're not worried about max power I'd say run without and see how it does. Since having the april flash in my sled I haven't needed to add as much in the mid with my PCV.
 
if you have the most recent flash in the sled itself you may not need the PCV. The april flash added a bit of fuel in the midrange. You could benefit from subtracting fuel in the top end but if you're not worried about max power I'd say run without and see how it does. Since having the april flash in my sled I haven't needed to add as much in the mid with my PCV.
Honest question. Do you run EGTS or A/F gauge? If not, I think you would be surprised at what you see!
 
EGT's mean nothing until you dial them in using piston and plug wash. One sled will run all day long at 1100 degrees and another sled will burn down there. There are so many variables with EGTS. Fuel type for one is a big one, a high compression head will change your numbers, etc.

If it were my sled I would run a PCV. I'd run the PCV map for whatever flash you currently have for a stock sled. Autotune would be best, I know the PMS kit slightly increases compression. I would guess this is where the extra horsepower comes from in the kit.
 
EGT's mean nothing until you dial them in using piston and plug wash.

Hmm...... Sure they do. When he is cruising down the trail around 6000-7000 rpm and holding the throttle at mid throttle and his egts are well past 1300 climbing up to 1400! Or when he has a bad intake boot and he is sucking air in one side causing one cylinder to go excessive lean, which will show on your egts, they sure mean something! My point of asking if he is running egts or air/fuel is not to get them but to know that even with a aftermarket fuel control these sleds are still lean in the midrange. So a sled without a fuel controller are still very lean in the midrange. http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/member.php?u=57273So I agree with you get a fuel controller of some sort. Doesn't matter what flash you have they are still lean in the midrange and rich on the top end and this makes it difficult for the average joe to read the "piston wash".
 
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I believe that Milehigh is simply noting that an EGT "temp" can be misleading. The indicated temp will vary depending on where you have placed the probe in the pipe/flame. Same model motors with probes in the same place may not react the same. Reading your wash initially is key to determining a baseline. Like he said 1100 deg could be a burn down or you're pig rich... good luck.
 
What you are missing is that at 1400 some sleds run perfect. Another sled will burn down at 1000.

Once you tune your sled, egt's work great. But there is no one magic number for all sleds when it comes to egt's.


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What you are missing is that at 1400 some sleds run perfect. Another sled will burn down at 1000.

Once you tune your sled, egt's work great. But there is no one magic number for all sleds when it comes to egt's.


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I think what you are missing is we are talking about the same sled, are we not? (make and model) Not the old tripples or a Cat, but IQ 800 monoblock? Yes every sled runs different, (different make and model), but same make and model one is not going to run 1400 and another 1000, assumed all things the same. Same sleds with same setups, there generally is a magic number. But this really wasn't even my point. So I will try again to do better at making my point more clearer.

hymarkin754 said that with the april flash that Joe57 may not need to run a fuel controller. I was curious how hymarkin754 knew that Joe57 may not need to run a fuel controller. Is hymarkin754 monitoring egts, or A/F gauge, or like you stated checking plugs and piston wash? And like you stated, run a fuel controller, which I agree. My point is, run a fuel controller because even with a fuel controller they run pretty hot in the midrange. So, hymarkin754, even though your sled runs good in the midragne, just know not to hold it there to long because even with a fuel controller you are generating a lot of heat.
 
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i didnt read anyone elses posts so sorry if i repeat an answer, but i run the mtntk kit (pms only sells it) with a pcv. my sled has the april flash and i run the recommended map for the pcv on it, except i zero'd out all the parts on the map that were leaning the april flash, and kept all the parts of the map that added fuel. it might not be the most power efficient, but i think it helps guarantee that it will never run lean. i just want my sled to stay running. maybe since i'm a newb i'm just not power hungry yet, but i just like being able to ride all day worry free.
 
I've done all my tuning by reading piston wash and plugs. I started out pig rich in the midrange and held it there for a long time down the trail. I tapered the fuel down until I was comfortable with what I had. Don't get me wrong, I am adding a small amount of fuel in the mid range but its nothing compared to the what I had to add with the earlier flashes. I'm adding fuel just for piece of mind.

I started out doing as Miralas said. But my sled was loading up really bad going down the trtail so I knew I had to do something with the midrange. This was starting out with the Stoutner 157 map. When I say I ran down the trail in the midrange, it was for miles so I feel I was creating as much heat as I was going to in that rpm range. Not that I hold it there in typical riding conditions. I used to have all out mods so its been good to have the habit of blipping the throttle.

This is just what worked for me. But I would definetly be checking wash and plugs no matter what your running.
 
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True name "THE FIX" by MTNTK

Just a bit info that people would like to know, Performance Motor Sports or PMS is the national distributor for MTNTK "Mountain Tek" Products. It is not a PMS KIT; just like Kolpin is sold by WPS but people don’t call it a WPS gun boot. Just trying to clear up the confusion, either way it points you in the right direction to get your dragon fixed. So were really not complaining here.

As far as the remapping goes, “THE FIX” Comes with directions on how to install it and we make recommendations for the calibration over the phone for specific cases. Everybody thinks they know what to do to help the fuel issue. The supposed “lean” spot has never ever been the issue. The “lean” spot is really there for emission control and does not affect performance or runability, big qualifier here – UNLESS you have a TPS out of adjustment or you have lighter than stock clutching . Lighter than stock clutching means you have a heavier (are we talking lighter?) clutch spring so the engine engages higher or it otherwise has higher rpm than it would normally at any given throttle position compared to a stock calibration thus making it lean. Lighter clutch weights or profile changed weights could also do this. So just run the April ‘10 flash if you are worried about the midrange, or if you want the best performance, then they recommend the 08 flash. We have over 3000 miles on a lot of these sleds and more than 300 kits out without any issues and many satisfied customers. Join the club of “Ride the best and pull back the rest!”
 
I've done all my tuning by reading piston wash and plugs. I started out pig rich in the midrange and held it there for a long time down the trail. I tapered the fuel down until I was comfortable with what I had. Don't get me wrong, I am adding a small amount of fuel in the mid range but its nothing compared to the what I had to add with the earlier flashes. I'm adding fuel just for piece of mind.

I started out doing as Miralas said. But my sled was loading up really bad going down the trtail so I knew I had to do something with the midrange. This was starting out with the Stoutner 157 map. When I say I ran down the trail in the midrange, it was for miles so I feel I was creating as much heat as I was going to in that rpm range. Not that I hold it there in typical riding conditions. I used to have all out mods so its been good to have the habit of blipping the throttle.

This is just what worked for me. But I would definetly be checking wash and plugs no matter what your running.
Agreed. You can't really tell how much people know by one post. You obviously know what you are doing and are up to speed. That's all I was checking. Thanks
 
A little advice Please. I have the PMS kit installed in my 09 D8 and they put a 2010 can on it , Do I run the PCV with the slp can, the PCV stock, or not run the PCV. I don't beleive the fix cured the lean mid range. I want to run some break in miles and then sell it.I got the 2012 Pro itch.............:face-icon-small-coo


Are you saying they installed the 2010 muffler from Polaris that was recommended for flatland or low altitude use when the 2010 engine update was released? It is/was my understanding that the only aftermarket can that was approved by Polaris during the Update Campaign for the 800 CFI was in fact the SLP can.

If you run low altitude and PMS installed the 2010 can, then i would probably run that. As for the PCV goes, I would definately recommend running it regardless of muffler/can choice.

I have tested the PCV with stock pipe/2010 can, Stock pipe with SLP can, and SLP pipe with SLP can and running the SLP map loaded into the PCV and the sled always ran better than without the PCV (disconnected). My testing was/has been 2,000-8,000 ft. I have found the Dyntotech maps to be over-fueling just a tad in the low-mid throttle openings in my sled at all altitudes. The SLP map. All of my testing has been with the first, original 2010 Engine Update Polaris map in the ECM.
 
When I got my parts warrentied and I picked the sled up I was told that they pulled the 09 can and installed the 2010 can. Per factory recomendation. I live @ 7000 ft so no I don't ride at low elev. 8000ft and up. I do not run egt's. Thanks for all the replys.
 
Did they change the pipe and can mount as well? In order to run a different can you need a different pipe on a 2010 as well as the mount.


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Did they change the pipe and can mount as well? In order to run a different can you need a different pipe on a 2010 as well as the mount.


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I do not know I think just the can and maybe the mount I need to open up the side cover and look I haven't had time.....
 
well correct me if i am wrong but if we install EGT guages and were pig rich or pig lean we would have to install some type of fuel controller to make adjustment to the fuel being were fuel injected Am i think correct.
 
well correct me if i am wrong but if we install EGT guages and were pig rich or pig lean we would have to install some type of fuel controller to make adjustment to the fuel being were fuel injected Am i think correct.

Yes you need a fuel controller to adjust fuel trim.

There is no point in having egt gauges until you already establish correct fueling with plugs and piston wash. There is no one magic egt number that means your fueling is on.


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