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Pleas help 2012 rmk tps issue

P
Feb 13, 2022
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Ok, let's start from scratch

Bought a 2012 rmk 1700ish miles

Blew up within 200km of buying

Rebuilt top to bottom

NOW
I took out for first ride and noticed some intermittent bog at top end (would have to let off and get back on it to pull full rpm)

Also noticed intermittent 10-4 eng code (tps issue)

Last night I adjusted tps with 12v battery and mV multimeter.

After adjustment it idles too high (reverse won't engage and it was before)

I'm starting to think when I adjusted the oil pump I accidentally adjusted the throttle body sync screw?? (See picture)

Leaving for a sled trip early tomorrow and would love some insight. Did I adjust the right screw?? I'm confused about oil pump screw because everyone I've see it's a flat head and mine was 2.5 Allen


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P
Feb 13, 2022
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69c1d9f1f826fce026b114e1d6707bd8.jpg

7481138db57c8cd314c7a1bced9d9eb2.jpg



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M
Dec 17, 2021
10
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Idaho
This adjusts your idle speed. Little screw that holds the throttle blade open a tiny amount. It is on the right side. If you did your TPS right then you should’ve backed this off so it wasn’t holding the throttle open, THEN adjusted your TPS (left side), THEN adjusted this screw to the proper RPM. Then checked mV again. I hope this helps. At this point at night, I can’t tell what screw you adjusted.

2B56F76F-650B-4BAB-A824-8835B07D6272.jpeg
 
P
Feb 13, 2022
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Yes I backed off that idle screw (along with disconnected at handlebar throttle) the screw in question is in between the two reeds right at centre of throttle bodies


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zaasman

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That 2.5mm allen screw with lock nut, between the throttle bodies, does indeed adjust the oil linkage.

@Mccl6927 is right about the order of operations for setting TPS. I know on my 2012 pro, it was very picky about having the idle voltage within spec otherwise it wouldn't go into reverse. I'd have to set idle based on TPS voltage, not rpm (which is what the manual tells you to do). Even just a few millivolts too high meant no reverse.
 
P
Feb 13, 2022
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Yesterday:
Thanks a ton for the replies guys, different issue now :( re adjusted tps while reading mV like you mentioned and no more check engine light and goes into reverse!!)


This morning:
-38c this morning and sled started rough, idles really weird and fluctuating up/down. If I hit the gas it just bogs and will stall out (can't even really move the machine)

Could this be signs of a bad tps? It seemed to work after adjustment but yesterday I did feel some "dead spots" in the top range... pushed on throttle nothing for a bit then bam almost wide open


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RoostinRyan

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Dec 27, 2013
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Make sure you are following the procedure precisely. When setting the tps read the your multimeter as you slowly open the throttle to wide open. Make sure it raises smoothly and doesnt do anything abnormal. Doing this will verify that you have no dead spots within the operating range. As far as the original problem of bog at WOT, I would first assume that its related to the throttle safety swtich. Ive eliminated it on mine as I ran into the same problem. When you go wide open and the throttle safety switch doesnt get pressed in, it will fall on its face and you have to let off and get back into it. Its super annoying but is intended to prevent a stuck throttle catastrophe lol. Just some food for thought. Lots of info out there on that.
 
P
Feb 13, 2022
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Ryanlinger thanks for advice to check TSS. Did a bit of reading and I think this could be the culprit!! Possible to bypass this with minimal tools/supplies?


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RoostinRyan

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Ryanlinger thanks for advice to check TSS. Did a bit of reading and I think this could be the culprit!! Possible to bypass this with minimal tools/supplies?


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Yes its easy. I've done it one of two ways. Pull the pin for the throttle flipper and inside the oblong hole for the pin I put something in there behind the pin to take up the slop and keep the button in there pressed. I usually use the spent end of a 3/16 rivet. Put it behind the pin on the flipper and your good to go. Just make sure the throttle works smoothly. Or pull the switch itself out of the throttle block and tape it so it's pressed in all the time. You can't just remove it without installing resistors and I've been successful with those two methods. Just always be sure to clear snow out before starting the sled after rolling it over and put your tether on lol.
 

GoHiSK1

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Did you get your sled to run properly ?
Another problem that is not talked about much is it could be an aftermarket silencer IF you are running one .
Have had a few Polaris PRO's go through my shop with bogging issues at full throttle . Installing the stock silencer has cured the problem .
Just a thought.
 
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