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Piston to Cylinder Clearance Confirmed! Not Good!!

T

theshadowrider

Well-known member
Okay,

After the numerous threads about the IQ motors and the problems associated with them it got me thinking about my own motor and its sustainability. I put a turbo on my dragon the start of the 2010 season at 1000 miles and have loved every minute of it. I current have 1700 miles on it. I had the top-end replaced under warranty at 700 miles, for the "update" so I have ruffly 1000 miles on this top end which 700 are boosted. Before I put the turbo on, I had a 1000 miles on the sled, so I had 300 miles on the pistons since the update. When I installed the turbo, I noticed that one side of the pistons already had the coating wearing off. I have now decided to put a new top end in and in the process have discovered some very interesting things that has confirmed what others have been saying. This season I was nervous throughout the year because of the abnormal wear that I saw at 300 miles on the top end. I just keep reading about piston slap, broken skirts, and piston clearance. So I decided to try determine what my piston clearance is. I have read many talking about how loose these pistons are and how they are not even within specs. So here is what I have come up with to confirm others findings

First off, I have asked around and talked to many different people on the best way to measure piston to wall clearances. Some have told me about using feelers gauges, others using calipers, but I what I thought, and was told would be the most accurate was using a digital micrometer accurate out to .0000 and these handy machinist tools, so that is what I used. I also decide there are many different variables involved so I tried to eliminated as many as I could and take dozens of readings then average them out.

DSC02031.jpg

This is what I used to measure the piston clearance. First I measured the piston, as per the manual by taking the micrometer and measuring 3/8" from the skirt 90 degrees to the pin. I took a dozen reading on each piston and this is what I came up with.

Stock Piston

Left Side: 3.3373" Right Side: 3.3366"

Stock Piston don't measure the same and the wear confirms it!

DSC02029.jpg


Stock pistons with left piston in picture pto side, right piston mag side.

DSC02021.jpg


Right piston (Mag) intake side


DSC02022.jpg


Left piston (PTO) intake side

DSC02026.jpg


Right piston (Mag) exhaust side

DSC02027.jpg


Left piston (Pto) exhaust side

I took 12 readings on each side of the cylinders and then averaged them to come up with this. I used the machinist tool to mark the piston width and then used the micrometer to measure.

Left cylinder measurements: 3.34617"
Right cylinder measurements: 3.34605"

Now do the math and I get a piston to wall clearance of

Left Side: .00887"
Right Side: .00945"

According to Polaris for a 2008 800 rmk dragon, looking in my service manual it calls for the piston to wall clearance to be: .0037" - .0053"

So next I measured my new wiescos that I am putting in and this is what I came up with. Note: Cylinder, and all pistons sat overnight in shop to make sure all surfaces where the exact same temp when measuring.
DSC02036.jpg

After numerous measurements and averaging them I cam up with.
Left piston: 3.3417"
Right Piston: 3.3416"
Now I realize when you get out to .0001" there is a degree of measurement error.


Now doing the math from the cylinder specs from above, this is the clearance I come up with the wiscoes.

Left Side: .00447"
Right Side: .00445"

With in service limits now of .0037" - .0053".

Now will have to wait until next season to see how they hold up compared to oem stock, but betting on these measurements they are going to be better than stock!
 
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Piston to Cylinder Clearance Confirmed

theshadowrider,

Can you please post up the clearance measurements that you came up with along with more pics of the pistons & cylinders?

Thank you,

akrevrider
 
Those pistons look pretty dang good for 1000 miles in a 'stock' bore Dragon motor.

sled_guy
 
Questions/Comments

You mentioned that you measured the pistons 3/8" up. Where did you measure the cylinders? I believe the manual has a spec for that too, it is something like an inch down from the top. This will make a difference because all cylinders have some taper from honing.

Also, piston skirts on all engines do shrink inward from the heat and pressure of running. I think your measurements are showing that. You should measure your Wiseco pistons after 1000 miles and see how they compare.
 
You mentioned that you measured the pistons 3/8" up. Where did you measure the cylinders? I believe the manual has a spec for that too, it is something like an inch down from the top. This will make a difference because all cylinders have some taper from honing.

Also, piston skirts on all engines do shrink inward from the heat and pressure of running. I think your measurements are showing that. You should measure your Wiseco pistons after 1000 miles and see how they compare.
Cylinder.jpg

Piston.jpg


I took all measurements according to service manual that I have posted. I used the cylinder measurement worksheet and did it twice for each cylinder then took the average to try to improve accuracy. I then did the math according to the formula to find the "Taper" and the "out of round" which where both in limits specified by polaris. "Out of round" came in at .0007" and max limit is listed as .002" I was curious to know if the cylinders where out of spec or the pistons where out of spec. I found the cylinders where in spec and the pistons are what is out of spec.

I will also be curious to see what I find after a 1000 miles. I can tell you that I am pretty confident that the oem pistons where out of spec this bad from the beginning though, and not from running them. I know this because when I inspected the pistons at 300 miles my right side had already had the coating warn off. Coatings should not be warn off at 300 miles, unless it on a oem IQ motor I guess.
 
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Been replacing my pistons every 700-1000 miles. New ones have always been just out of spec. Don't have the exact measurements right now but the clearances were around .006 brand new. After 700 miles on my last set they were over .008. I've lost 2 engines due to the breaking skirts. One made it 1500 miles and the other made it 900 miles so that's why I'm so proactive about keeping new pistons in my motor now. It's sad we have to do this but my warranty is off so it's cheap insurance in my eyes. This is on a 700 by the way.
 
Been replacing my pistons every 700-1000 miles. New ones have always been just out of spec. Don't have the exact measurements right now but the clearances were around .006 brand new. After 700 miles on my last set they were over .008. I've lost 2 engines due to the breaking skirts. One made it 1500 miles and the other made it 900 miles so that's why I'm so proactive about keeping new pistons in my motor now. It's sad we have to do this but my warranty is off so it's cheap insurance in my eyes. This is on a 700 by the way.

I think that I am going to do just the same thing. I am going to put 1000 miles on this top-end and then measure it and see what it looks like. I think with these piston being tighter starting out, 1500 miles should not be a problem. I too have had a skirt break off also and take out my motor. Now that mine is also out of warranty I agree that spending a few hundred dollars is cheap insurance compared to what it would cost to replace a motor. How many miles do you have on your cylinder and when do you think it will be time to re-nikisil it?
 
Cylinders had around 1700 on the last piston change. They looked fine and have always measured to new specs. They don't seem to wear at all.
 
It runs!

So I finally got parts back from getting ceramic coated. I started it up with the new top end and, like others have posted its seems quieter. I guess that makes sense when the pistons before had so much play in them. Seems to idle smoother also. Now I just have to wait until winter to test it out. Oh, and now my egts are spot on and before the one cylinder was always 25-50 degrees hotter.
DSC02037.jpg


DSC02042.jpg


DSC02040.jpg


DSC02041.jpg
 
Wow, that is clean. Your brother has a turbo XP correct? If so, what do you think boost for boost powerwise. Trying to talk a couple of friends into turbos for their Dragons to keep up my T-XP. Thanks.
 
Shadow,

GREAT WRITE UP!!

A couple of things to mention though... used pistons will often have different dimensions from wear due to fuel/lubrication differences because the cylinders are divorced... also the differences in cyl temp that can be inherrent in these designs (you cant get the coolant flow exactly the same in both cyls)... can cause wear on the pistons etc.

The Wiseco pistons, being a forged piston, will have different characteristics than the cast pistons... as well as specific warm-up needs... IMO, make sure you pay very close attention to this.

The OEM for the stock pistons, Elko from Europe (Austria) has some of the highest quality standards in the industry that I know of... and their pistons are some of the most abuse resistant in the two stroke industry that I know of... This however does not mean that they will hold up to a problematic motor design....

On the turbos though... after seeing the abuse that Kinzer put his uber-high mileage sled through with stock pistons... I feel that the turbo sleds have been having better luck than the N.A. sleds out there with the 800 cfi.

I'm also curious... what are the thickness' of the wiesco rings / OEM... and is the skirt length identical on the two different pistons... How bout the wrist-pin-center to dome-top dimension??
 
Wow, that is clean. Your brother has a turbo XP correct? If so, what do you think boost for boost powerwise. Trying to talk a couple of friends into turbos for their Dragons to keep up my T-XP. Thanks.

It's hard to say because he never got his running until the end of the season, so we never had a deep powder day to see how they climb in comparison. It seems to me that mine pulls harder. Not sure if it's due to I run an intercooler, or my clutching being dialed. We never raced them, because we are not the type that are really worried about who's is faster, but more who's can climb higher. Of course it hard to tell by the seat of your pants because they are defiantly two different animals and ride so different. They are animals that's for sure! Next year we will see what we find.
 
Thanks

Shadow,

GREAT WRITE UP!!

A couple of things to mention though... used pistons will often have different dimensions from wear due to fuel/lubrication differences because the cylinders are divorced... also the differences in cyl temp that can be inherrent in these designs (you cant get the coolant flow exactly the same in both cyls)... can cause wear on the pistons etc.
Good points. I wish I could have measured the oem pistons when they were new. I am still leaning toward they were slightly different size starting out, or constructed slightly differenty causing them to wear differently than each other. I will be interested to see what the wiesco measure after running them.


The Wiseco pistons, being a forged piston, will have different characteristics than the cast pistons... as well as specific warm-up needs... IMO, make sure you pay very close attention to this. This is an interesting topic for sure. Although I am realitivly new to snowmobiles, I have ran dirt bikes and quads for years and we always ran wiescos with zero failures, and zero "cold seizures". I come to snowmobiles and seems like left and right pistons are failing and they are usually the skirts breaking off. And it's not just Polaris that uses cast piston, and skirts break. I personally had my sled at 600 miles break a skirt off and go through the case. I was grateful for warranty. Its interested how many are afraid of the "forged" piston when it seems far superior to me. IMO there is as many myths about the forged piston as there is of avgas. It would be nice if mythbusters would do an episode for us. Looking up the differences, the cast piston uses silicon in the casting process which helps with thermal expansion. In turn it makes it more brittle and more susceptible to detonation. Two fairly negative qualities IMO. The wisecos are stronger, lighter, and within specs. I do agree with most that the expansion properties are different. (not sure of how much though, if it's even significant) I think I would rather go with the possibility of a "cold seize" than I would having a skirt break off and going through the case. That why I didn't go with OEM.

The OEM for the stock pistons, Elko from Europe (Austria) has some of the highest quality standards in the industry that I know of... and their pistons are some of the most abuse resistant in the two stroke industry that I know of... This however does not mean that they will hold up to a problematic motor design.... Agreed, even more reason to put in a stronger piston.

On the turbos though... after seeing the abuse that Kinzer put his uber-high mileage sled through with stock pistons... I feel that the turbo sleds have been having better luck than the N.A. sleds out there with the 800 cfi. Yea, I have followed him and was under the opionon the oem work good until he lost hist motor due to a skirt breaking off and going through his case. He said, "it was due to a bad set of oem pistons." I asked him what pistons he recommends and he said not OEM.

I'm also curious... what are the thickness' of the wiesco rings / OEM... and is the skirt length identical on the two different pistons... How bout the wrist-pin-center to dome-top dimension?? I didn't measure these points and the piston are in my sled now.

I hope they hold up well and I will have to post my findings. Other seem to have luck running wiescos in the "fix" kit so that gives me hope.
 
Good info here. Thanks!

Would you mind sharing your measurements in this thread:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267209

Here are my measurements, I am also going with the Wisecos


Wiseco Piston (Part # 2456M08500)
Clearance: 0.0049" (0.124 mm)
Weight: 385 grams (piston 1) and 382 grams (piston 2)
Pin weight: 97 grams (both pistons)
Ring weight: 17 grams (both rings combined and both sets)

Piston 1: 84.30 mm measured front to back above the first ring (very top of piston)
Piston 1: side to side: 84.28 mm
Piston 1: Wall above wrist pin cavity: 84.73 mm
Piston 1 Skirt (front to back): 84.95 mm
Piston 1 Skirt, side to side above wrist pin: 84.74 mm
Piston 1 skirt wall (sides) 2.28-2.39 mm
Wrist pin 1: 21.99-22.02 mm


Piston 2: 84.25 mm measured front to back above the first ring (very top of piston) (off by 0.03 mm)
Piston 2: side to side: 84.28 mm (SAME)
Piston 2: Wall above wrist pin cavity: 84.73 mm (SAME)
Piston 2 Skirt (front to back): 84.94 mm (off by 0.01 mm)
Piston 2 Skirt, side to side above wrist pin: 84.74 mm
Piston 2 skirt wall (sides) 2.28-2.39 mm (same)
Wrist pin 2: 21.99 mm
 
Yes, from what I researched you can. I was going to go this route but after checking clearances the majority of the problem is the pistons. I decided instead of making my cylinders to fit my pistons, I got some pistons that fit the cylinders. The stock pistons are all over the place an not very consistent on sizing. Go with a forged piston and not a cast piston. IMO the forged piston is superior to the stock cast piston. Seems to be the stock pistons are all over the place as far as piston size.
 
Went with The Fix Kit this season

[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Installed new 2009 cylinders along with the [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Fix Kit. The pistons both have .005" clearance and the ring end gap was [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]spot on at .020"[/FONT]










akrevrider
 
[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Installed new 2009 cylinders along with the [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Fix Kit. The pistons both have .005" clearance and the ring end gap was [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]spot on at .020"[/FONT]







akrevrider






Was there something wrong with your original 2009 Monoblock, or did you replace it with the thicker 2010 Monoblock with the thicker cylinder skirts?

 
The Fix Kit

Was there something wrong with your original 2009 Monoblock, or did you replace it with the thicker 2010 Monoblock with the thicker cylinder skirts?

One of the cylinders had some pretty good scoring on it after 700 miles on the updated pistons from Polaris. It was already taken apart and did not want to take a chance on one of the cylinders taking out a piston.


Went with new 2009 cylinders because it was too much work to split the case halfs and bore them for 2010 cylinders. A little over 3 hours or so to do the Fix Kit and it was done.

Fired it up this evening to fog the engine and it sounds great now.



akrevrider
 
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