Pipe cover loose..Insulation all over

[rotax]

2011 w/ ~4k miles. My pipe cover is very loose/rattly. The insulation is working its way out from under the cover and making a mess all over the engine compartment.

Other than taking the cover and insulation off and getting the pipe coated, what are my options? Anyway to get it tight and re-rivet together some how?

Seems this is an age old issue that has gone on forever for every manuf...why aren't these pipes just coated from the factory? Works better, lasts longer, weighs less.

 

[POLZIN]

I would just pop it open ,blast clean the rust ,recoat with high temp header paint and wrap it with header insulation . then just reinstall the heat sheild.

I have heard coating the stock pipe ends up with it cracking at least in turbo applications. And I kinda doubt it works as well as the syock heat sheild and insulation

 

[Danbot]

Funny this came up, I just noticed mine is loose as heck too... making some disturbing vibration and noise!

 

[rotax]

Funny this came up, I just noticed mine is loose as heck too... making some disturbing vibration and noise!

this, exactly. sounded like a rattly tin can. however my muff pot riveted to the top of the can is loose again too..
will be glad to have a bit smoother engine w/ some drop-ins.. and so will my hands.

thanks for the tip on header wrap. looking into it.

 

[philsummers21]

Drop ins did not fix my vibration. Fwiw my sled locked up about 500 miles after the vibration started. Crank was screwed. Ended up sending the motor to indy Dan. So if you do a drop in and still have the vibes I'd look deeper into the motor.

As far as coating a pipe. They work way better then the stock shields as long as you get good coatings and not cheap crap. Have also heard people complain there pipes cracked after coating. Seems to only happen on pipes that were coated with lots of miles. Also wonder if it wasn't done right.

Sent from my galaxy note3 via tapatalk

 

[rotax]

Wrap, Hi-Temp coating/paint, and Snap strap kit for $65 on Summit Racing.

Is this what I'd be looking for? Looks like the straps are ~18" long, will have to get an idea on length needed for the pipe.

 

[philsummers21]

Should work.

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[mountainhorse]

Problem with removing the shield/insulation and going with just a coated pipe... Not enough heat is held in the pipe and performance can suffer.

SLP tried to run only ceramic coating on their performance pipes for the PRO RMK... and endend up needing to install a heat shield as well.







.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

this is the part number for the 2010 dragon shield kit, not a perfect fit, but you should be able to make the insulation fit your pro pipe...


Kit, Pipe Shields, 800 IQ [Incl. Shields,Insul [+]


2204703

 

[diamonddave]

As far as coating a pipe. They work way better then the stock shields as long as you get good coatings and not cheap crap. Have also heard people complain there pipes cracked after coating. Seems to only happen on pipes that were coated with lots of miles. Also wonder if it wasn't done right.

If you are going to have pipe coated, only coat a new pipe. When coating a used pipe, the combination of coating and Heat cycles on the pipe somehow make it brittle. I've never seen a new pipe that was coated crack but have seen (and heard) of many "used" pipes crack after they had been coated.

 

[philsummers21]

SLP did not use good coating then. Proper Coating keeps the heat in the pipe just fine and does a better job at it then heat shields. Also decreases under hood temp. the chrome or polished coating is not the best coating it is sub par at best. Look into high temp Cerakote V-171. they have tested this coating a ton and is such a better coating. they also have a black that is very good.

 

[rotax]

So, my next question for anyone who has wrapped before.

Should I wrap the pipe to the y-pipe? Is there a reason that the area is left exposed? Why?

Will be starting prep and paint tomorrow.

Then have to figure out how to get the cover/shield to stay on tight. Again, any tips from anyone who has dealt with it before would be greatly appreciated.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Y-pipe is uncovered because it could get to hot and you could risk hurting the motor..leave it uncovered...as to putting the stock shell back on, you should be able to use stainless hose clamps(grind a notch at each flange if needed to stop them from sliding off from vibration)..

 

[rotax]

I finished with pipe paint, wrap, painting the wrap, and reinstalling cover.

I bent the cover back together, similar to how it was installed from the factory.
However, I'm not sure how well or long that will hold up.

Would something like this Make-A-Clamp system work?
Not sure where I'd find large enough or properly fitting clamps otherwise.
Price is good on the make-a-clamp kit, but not sure how it'll hold up to vibration and such.
Anyone used these before, or have other suggestions?

 

[mtncat1]

just hold on a minute here there is something very important you are missing on this discussion. how in the hell did a 11 pro get 4000 miles on it. it would have had to have at least 4 motors in it.. by the way my son has an 11 pro with 4500 miles on it with a new motor 300 miles ago. just sayin