Pictures of my newly balanced primary

[uSoTiNy]

Very happy with the job done on my clutch by the local machine shop. They have a dynamic balancer specifically for clutches and did a great job.

I had to disassemble my clutch myself which for me is fine, and then they balanced each component individually. Fixed sheave, movable sheave, spider, and cover plate. All were balanced and then assembled as a unit to confirm a true balance. Total cost was $117 Canadian which is about 90US including tax.

Individual balancing components for us 900 guys is pretty important considering the use of 11 series, 10 series, MTX and other weights which changes the belt to sheave clearance requiring re-shimming. Along with the use of the 1115 belt, being able to re-shim without re-balancing is definitely the way to go!

You will notice the small "x" marked with a sharpie close to where they did the material removal on the cover plate. This is where I marked the clutch heavy point when I did my own static balance to index this heavy point with the bottom dead center of the crank to offset the .0025" runout I have. This was a temporary band-aid that I did until I found a good shop to do the balancing.

Before this I had considered sending my clutch to Indydan but with the exchange the way it is plus shipping both ways I simply needed to find an alternative here in Saskatchewan or at least relatively close to keep it affordable.

Ive went through almost the entire "to-do" list for this HOG with the exception of the TM bottom end but I am going to keep an eye on my runout until it needs some attention.

So far I have...

Reliability Issues
-Inspected the torque and push arms (replaced the push arm rubber as it was destroyed)
-Built a simple engine mount for the dial indicator and checked crank runout to be .0025" 1/4" in from the end of the crank
-removed front radiator and eliminated the loop going to the coolant bottle
-installed scratchers
-installed a heat shield to the top of the throttle bodies to protect the rubber boots from exhaust pipe heat damage
-installed vent kit for the clutches (Further venting is planned but I will be fabbing these myself after paying what I did for what I got)
-Removed .020" shim from the primary after installing 11 series weights and the 1115 belt to get .015" clearance

Performance wise
-Installed a used SLP Pipe and silencer (Purchased a Calibration ID from SLP $50USD)
-Have both Polaris ALMOND 140-330 and SLP Black/Yellow 120-310 primary springs to try at 4000-7000ft in 2 weeks time
-Purchased a 66-44-46/66-40-46 NON ER and a 70-46-46/72-48-46ER (Thanks Ebay)
-Purchased 3 derlin washers for the secondary
-Purchased a Black/White secondary spring
-regeared to 19-41, see what happens there
-The only issue outstanding at this point is the weights for the primary. I have 11-68, 11-74, 10-74 (2 sets) and don't want to purchase weights at this point unless I can't make one of these sets work. If need be I will make the 11-74s lighter until they work. I am fine with grinding them down.

Definately going to have one day of tinkering on my mountain trip but thanks to members of this forum as well as HCS I have a pretty close starting point in my opinion.

Thanks for all the help so far boys!

 

[BILTIT]

Where did you have it done? Tired of sending my clutches down south also.

 

[Merlin]

Looks good!

Balancing the components separately is the way to go & is a great option for anyone living within a short driving distance of the machine shop.

Price is fair too. I paid $85 to have my last clutch balanced as one assy.

 

[uSoTiNy]

Where did you have it done? Tired of sending my clutches down south also.

Where are you from? I had to drop it off there, they prefer not to deal with shipping. I go there pretty often and don't mind helping you out if you want.

 

[uSoTiNy]

Looks good!

Balancing the components separately is the way to go & is a great option for anyone living within a short driving distance of the machine shop.

Price is fair too. I paid $85 to have my last clutch balanced as one assy.

Ya they didn't want to disassemble my clutch but when I said that I would bring it to them loosely assembled it was no problem to do the components. Now at least if I ever have to reshim or sell the clutch it is totally adaptable to other belts without being out of balance.

 

[Jay]

PM Beaufordt on here for his clutching. Nobody made a 900 pull harder. Polaris actually came to him back when and asked him what he was doing, it was that impressive. He went over to the dark side {skidoo) years back but He'd probably share what he used to do.

 

[BILTIT]

Where are you from? I had to drop it off there, they prefer not to deal with shipping. I go there pretty often and don't mind helping you out if you want.

Lloydminster, next time i need a clutch done i will give you a shout.

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Rich_mountain]

Very happy with the job done on my clutch by the local machine shop. They have a dynamic balancer specifically for clutches and did a great job.

I had to disassemble my clutch myself which for me is fine, and then they balanced each component individually. Fixed sheave, movable sheave, spider, and cover plate. All were balanced and then assembled as a unit to confirm a true balance. Total cost was $117 Canadian which is about 90US including tax.

Individual balancing components for us 900 guys is pretty important considering the use of 11 series, 10 series, MTX and other weights which changes the belt to sheave clearance requiring re-shimming. Along with the use of the 1115 belt, being able to re-shim without re-balancing is definitely the way to go!

You will notice the small "x" marked with a sharpie close to where they did the material removal on the cover plate. This is where I marked the clutch heavy point when I did my own static balance to index this heavy point with the bottom dead center of the crank to offset the .0025" runout I have. This was a temporary band-aid that I did until I found a good shop to do the balancing.

Before this I had considered sending my clutch to Indydan but with the exchange the way it is plus shipping both ways I simply needed to find an alternative here in Saskatchewan or at least relatively close to keep it affordable.

Ive went through almost the entire "to-do" list for this HOG with the exception of the TM bottom end but I am going to keep an eye on my runout until it needs some attention.

So far I have...

Reliability Issues
-Inspected the torque and push arms (replaced the push arm rubber as it was destroyed)
-Built a simple engine mount for the dial indicator and checked crank runout to be .0025" 1/4" in from the end of the crank
-removed front radiator and eliminated the loop going to the coolant bottle
-installed scratchers
-installed a heat shield to the top of the throttle bodies to protect the rubber boots from exhaust pipe heat damage
-installed vent kit for the clutches (Further venting is planned but I will be fabbing these myself after paying what I did for what I got)
-Removed .020" shim from the primary after installing 11 series weights and the 1115 belt to get .015" clearance

Performance wise
-Installed a used SLP Pipe and silencer (Purchased a Calibration ID from SLP $50USD)
-Have both Polaris ALMOND 140-330 and SLP Black/Yellow 120-310 primary springs to try at 4000-7000ft in 2 weeks time
-Purchased a 66-44-46/66-40-46 NON ER and a 70-46-46/72-48-46ER (Thanks Ebay)
-Purchased 3 derlin washers for the secondary
-Purchased a Black/White secondary spring
-regeared to 19-41, see what happens there
-The only issue outstanding at this point is the weights for the primary. I have 11-68, 11-74, 10-74 (2 sets) and don't want to purchase weights at this point unless I can't make one of these sets work. If need be I will make the 11-74s lighter until they work. I am fine with grinding them down.

Definately going to have one day of tinkering on my mountain trip but thanks to members of this forum as well as HCS I have a pretty close starting point in my opinion.

Thanks for all the help so far boys!

Is this on an RMK 900? I just picked up a 2005 with a blown engine. I have heard that these have many problems but are quite the monsters when running well. And for what I paid, I couldn't pass it up. My opinion on problems, are they can all be fixed, just depends on how much time and money you want to throw at them. I myself like the challenge of finding efficient and effective ways to fix problems. That being said, any advise you guys can give for the issues these machines have, I am open ears. I did get such a deal on this sled, that I just couldn't pass it up. It is seized, and leaking oil from the bottom side somewhere, haven't ripped it apart yet to see from where. I already picked up a good engine lower case for it, that in case the case in the sled is cracked, I have something to switch over to. If not, I will just build a bullet proof bottom end spare so if I have any future problems, after the rebuild, I can just do a quick swap and be on my way. So what do you guys think? I know there is a timbersled intake, SLP exhaust and tons of venting through the plastic. Any other suggestions for upgrade/fixes?

 

[uSoTiNy]

I'm pretty sure I've read somewhere that that oil line going to the crankcase sometimes has issues with coming off. That could be why your motor is seized. There are a lot of really good threads on here and I believe there is good stickies at the top of this forum with some good information. There's also a lot of good information over on the back country Forum as well.

What I did with mine is go through it with a fine tooth comb checking all the hoses and wiring to make sure nothing was damaged. There are a lot of people parting the sleds out including myself so you can get parts for dirt cheap

Remove the front radiator, making sure you cut off and plug the line going to the coolant bottle . Look up how to do that in one of the stickies at the top of this forum.
Get the primary clutch balanced in individual pieces. If you're in the US, I'd recommend sending it to Indy dan. In Canada and you might have to do a little bit of looking around, but I know at some point in time I will be sending some clutches to the same place that I got mine done out. The primary will need to be shimmed for proper belt clearance if it already hasn't been for the 1115 belt. Proper clearance is .015-.030 between the belt and the sheave.

Look up how to check the crank shaft run out, max is .003" anything more than that and you will be having issues soon.

There's lots more but those are for sure the first few things.

Buy some spare parts before you need them...