pcv autotune problem!!!

Rmk_RDR · Dec 20, 2015

I bought a pcv and autotuner for my 11 800 pro from hay days this year and I installed it on my sled and installed my prob 8 inches from the end of the pipe and can flange and hooked my power into the assesory connector and I have power on the hot wire for the autotune and I have my autotune on and sent my map and table and have it set to 10 seconds just to check if it works and I cant get the autotuner to work any suggestions? thanks

DynojetResearch · Dec 21, 2015

Rmk_RDR said:
I bought a pcv and autotuner for my 11 800 pro from hay days this year and I installed it on my sled and installed my prob 8 inches from the end of the pipe and can flange and hooked my power into the assesory connector and I have power on the hot wire for the autotune and I have my autotune on and sent my map and table and have it set to 10 seconds just to check if it works and I cant get the autotuner to work any suggestions? thanks

Rmk_RDR,
The green LED indicating AUTOTUNE RUNNING in the lower right of the Software will illuminate when:

1) The AT is hooked up correctly and is relaying data real time to the PCV and Software. [NOTE: The small light on the enclosure of the Autotune device will flash until the Sensor is heated up. Once it is fully heated, the light will go to solid and you will see a live AFR reading]
2) The Autotune feature is checked to enable
3) The cell tracer moving through the table corresponding to operating conditions of the machine (TP/RPM or Boost/RPM) is in a cell populated with a Target AFR value. If there is a zero in the Target table, the green LED will not turn on as AT is not hunting for any target.

You mentioned having it set to 10 seconds - assuming this is the "Require Run Time" with a minimum run time of 10 seconds. In this same setup window, ensure that you do not have the Require Engine Temp also checked, as AT will not run until that engine temp has been reached as well. For troubleshooting purposes, perhaps disable both of these Time and Temperature dependencies.

If you are not seeing the reading in SW become live, check to make sure the light on the AT enclosure become solid. If you do not see this go solid, ensure that all six wires of the screw terminal are firmly inserted, screwed down and making good contact.
For the 11-12 Polaris, a good power source on the sled is above the clutch cover in front of the oil tank inside the Velcro baggy labeled DC Pwr (I think - remembering from my own 2012 800 ProRMK where I hooked up an AFR gauge to). Attach the red wire of the AT to this connector, and ground the black wire using a ring lug to the common chassis ground of the sled.
Next, verify that you have the Autotune linked to the PCV using the supplied CAN cable. Insert one end of the cable to either CAN port on the AT, then run the other end into the PCV. If you AT came with a small, Black, plastic CAN termination plug, insert that into either of the remaining open ports.

Hopefully this gets you lined out in a right direction!

Thank you for your interest in Dynojet Products!
~T.J.

mountainhorse · Dec 21, 2015

TJ... you are setting a new standard for Mfg. support of our members... Thanks for that!!!

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Rmk_RDR · Dec 21, 2015

thanks for the info it was good help! I found the problem was I got power from an ac wire not dc...I can blame the test light for that ha but the only problem I found was that I let it idle and rev up to about 4000 rpm so I never had the track moving and I only let it get to 111 degrees and some of my afr numbers were maxed out at 20 for my trims. Could this be because I didn't have it completely warmed up and running? I was just checking quick to make sure it worked...

DynojetResearch · Dec 31, 2015

Rmk_RDR said:
thanks for the info it was good help! I found the problem was I got power from an ac wire not dc...I can blame the test light for that ha but the only problem I found was that I let it idle and rev up to about 4000 rpm so I never had the track moving and I only let it get to 111 degrees and some of my afr numbers were maxed out at 20 for my trims. Could this be because I didn't have it completely warmed up and running? I was just checking quick to make sure it worked...

If you have all +20's for trims, Autotune has indeed become active and is trying to meet your desired Target AFR.

One tuning note when using Autotune - is that Dynojet strongly does not recommend inserting Target AFR values for the 0%, 2%, and sometimes even the 5% columns. This is due to reversion in the exhaust, and a very low injector load to work with when hunting for trims. Even at 8" distance from the end of the stinger you can end up with free air inclusion back up to the sensor - thus skewing your readings.

So when you start tinkering with the AFR you wish to target, be sure that you are correlating your desired AFR with a value you know is what your engine wants to be run at. Put another way, the most important thing to remember is that you are tuning your engine to obtain a chocolate brown plug color and good wash. Your "sensor" might need to see that 14.6:1 based on it's location, engine/pipe dynamic, etc., but the burn in the cylinder is optimal there - a reading to shoot for is irrelevant, the condition inside the engine is important.
Thus, the Target AFR value you insert in your table might be 14.8 at low TP, 14.0 in the mid, and even 14.0 on the top end.
Since you're seeing +20's everywhere, the AFR value you are targeting could be erroneously rich and you won't want the engine to run that rich.

~T.J.

pcv autotune problem!!!

Rmk_RDR

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mountainhorse

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Rmk_RDR

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