Just picked up a new ride for the year. I've painted hoods before and they turn out ok but this time I want to do a nice job. Anybody do much painting on hoods? Any special additives that need to be put in the paint? How about side panels? Anybody figured out something to get paint to stick yet?
Painting sleds
- Thread starter Cowbell
- Start date
W
Wyoming T/A
ACCOUNT CLOSED
we painted mine last year with base/clear automotive paint and it is great---sand the heck out of the side panels with a red scuff pad , the paint will stick fine
T/A ??? I was hunting around Cooke Last week , saw alot of that paint on trees around town ????????Explain this .....How far did you get out of town??
S
speeddemon
Well-known member
as wyoming t/a said red scotch brite and wash real good with warm soapy water ! rinse good then get either a spray can or a pint of bulldog adhesion promoter ! it softens up the plastic opens up the poors and helps the automotive paint adhere better ! use a good sealer such as DP ( a ppg product ) and ur basecoat such as ( dbc /ppg product ) then a good urethane clear such as ( 2082 /2021 / a ppg product ) ! if u want to use a cheaper brand u could use ( omni,transtar,dupont etc !! all work well ! if it where me for a sled i would use the bulldog adheasion promoter than the omni sealer then omni basecoat ( ur choice of color )than a transtar clear ! transtar clear has UV protectant that omni clear dosnt . just my .02
mike
O
obile
Active member
the new omni plus does have uv protectant in it.imo ive used both and the dbc covers better than the omni so you can lay down less mil thickness and reduce your chances of cracking when flexed.the ppg quick clear seems to stay more flexible and resists scratches better also.hok is also good for this. imo spend a little more on the product and youll have less problems.if your painting over raw plastic bulldog is a must if your covering the old paint just scuff with red scotch brite with 3m scuff it paint prep gell or sand fix gell wax and grease remover base with minimum amount of coats and 3 coats of clear sand with 2000 and buff easy as that!as wyoming t/a said red scotch brite and wash real good with warm soapy water ! rinse good then get either a spray can or a pint of bulldog adhesion promoter ! it softens up the plastic opens up the poors and helps the automotive paint adhere better ! use a good sealer such as DP ( a ppg product ) and ur basecoat such as ( dbc /ppg product ) then a good urethane clear such as ( 2082 /2021 / a ppg product ) ! if u want to use a cheaper brand u could use ( omni,transtar,dupont etc !! all work well ! if it where me for a sled i would use the bulldog adheasion promoter than the omni sealer then omni basecoat ( ur choice of color )than a transtar clear ! transtar clear has UV protectant that omni clear dosnt . just my .02
mike
mine and my dads XRS's. as said before with good prepwork and quality paint it holds up pretty good, only place that it really chipped off was by my feet from kicking snow out of the foot wells.
held up good in the trees
held up good in the trees
Paint
Just had my hood damage repaired and painted. Used a Hysol Primer ( fills in the small pits and scratches ) and Endura Paint (part A and B).It is used in aircraft applications and I find it is pretty much bullet proof. Light sand with a 400 grit for the prep, wipe clean with iso and no need to clearcoat or seal.
It is expensive but you don't use much. We used less than a large baby food bottle for three coats. It shines like a diamond.
Just had my hood damage repaired and painted. Used a Hysol Primer ( fills in the small pits and scratches ) and Endura Paint (part A and B).It is used in aircraft applications and I find it is pretty much bullet proof. Light sand with a 400 grit for the prep, wipe clean with iso and no need to clearcoat or seal.
It is expensive but you don't use much. We used less than a large baby food bottle for three coats. It shines like a diamond.
All great responses! It comes down to what kind of "good" you are looking for. Showroom quality will cost you a little more on the paint, if you are only looking for a little better than spray balms, then you can spend a little less on the paint. Its good to keep in mind what kind of riding you do as well. If you like to boondock the trees and are "rough" with the sled, consider that during paint selection and preparation.
Regardless of what kind of paint you use, prep is a key component. Good sanding on every curve and bump, get in all those corners. Get a good primer (etching primer or Bulldog - as stated), you can also use a "build-up" primer like Hysol to fill in small scratches etc., and make sure that everything is smooth, smooth smooth smooth smooth smooth before you spray it. The prep work is key in painting. The better the prep job, the better adhesion and better look you will have as the final product.
I knew a guy that had a rule of 50-25-25. 50% of job was prep, 25% was painting, and 25% was polishing. He used to paint race cars with a sponge roller and tremclad and you would think they were done in a drafted booth. Was pretty impressive.
Regardless of what kind of paint you use, prep is a key component. Good sanding on every curve and bump, get in all those corners. Get a good primer (etching primer or Bulldog - as stated), you can also use a "build-up" primer like Hysol to fill in small scratches etc., and make sure that everything is smooth, smooth smooth smooth smooth smooth before you spray it. The prep work is key in painting. The better the prep job, the better adhesion and better look you will have as the final product.
I knew a guy that had a rule of 50-25-25. 50% of job was prep, 25% was painting, and 25% was polishing. He used to paint race cars with a sponge roller and tremclad and you would think they were done in a drafted booth. Was pretty impressive.
I was just going to do a "how to" thread on this since I had beemans parts in shop for paint but didnt get my camera out in time for prep pics.
First off paint will hold on great with good prep but wont hold up like impregnated plastics. You will get cracking and peeling on side panels after impacts or rollovers. To prevent this like stated scotch brite your azz off or take it one step further.
1. Hood you can just 320/ or scotch brite good and prime. It will adhere to this part. since it is a factory primed plastic.
2. side panels are not pre-primed and have no finish on them hence the slippery greasy feeling.
3. DA/80 grit side panels, they will fuzz all up and you will feel like you are destroying them.
4. wash them with a special wash sponge made for unprimed bumper covers from PPG
5. use the adhesive promotor spray in kit
6. Prime them with a high build two part urethane primer. (5 wet coats)
7. at this point you will swear the fuzz is never going to come out..just DA it with 320 and you will be amazed.
8. Final prime with 2 nice wet coats. Keep in mind to keep maintaining flex additive in all products.
9. 320/400 which ever you prefer and finish with your top coat systems from there.
I will post some finished product pics of beemans when I get done with it.
First off paint will hold on great with good prep but wont hold up like impregnated plastics. You will get cracking and peeling on side panels after impacts or rollovers. To prevent this like stated scotch brite your azz off or take it one step further.
1. Hood you can just 320/ or scotch brite good and prime. It will adhere to this part. since it is a factory primed plastic.
2. side panels are not pre-primed and have no finish on them hence the slippery greasy feeling.
3. DA/80 grit side panels, they will fuzz all up and you will feel like you are destroying them.
4. wash them with a special wash sponge made for unprimed bumper covers from PPG
5. use the adhesive promotor spray in kit
6. Prime them with a high build two part urethane primer. (5 wet coats)
7. at this point you will swear the fuzz is never going to come out..just DA it with 320 and you will be amazed.
8. Final prime with 2 nice wet coats. Keep in mind to keep maintaining flex additive in all products.
9. 320/400 which ever you prefer and finish with your top coat systems from there.
I will post some finished product pics of beemans when I get done with it.
Here is a pic of a hood that I did 3 years ago that has some pretty hard tree bashing and un-countable rolls. Paint show some fracture cracks but none let loose.
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