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p-85 spider rebuild?

Does anyone rebuild these spiders after the roller digs into them?I have 4 of these clutches and everyone of them the rollers have dug into the spider.I dont see why you cant tig weld the wear spot,grind it out flat again and be back on the mountain.I just made my own spider nut removal tool and am working on a spider removal tool.I am wondering if the spider is on as tight as the nut?Is there a measurment between the buttons and tower that anyone has?I know that sounds like a lot of wondering but $450.00-500.00 for a new clutch,I think it would be worth the time.
 
I would put 2 fiber washers , or whatever it takes, on the worn side to space the roller back out where it needs to be. In my experience the towers will be spread out a little at the top compared to the bottom, shim the buttons so they are as snug as they can be without sticking at the bottom of the towers and you will have some side clearance at the top. Keep the buttons as close together in size as possible (don't have one button sticking out 3/16 from the spider and the next one 1/16) If one button is worn badly replace it. The spiders are on there fng tight, I made my own special 3/4" breaker bar out of a 4' piece of pipe and on some clutches you still have to put a little heat to them to get them to break loose. Clutch rebuilds aren't real difficult to do, you'll figure it out.
 
Thanks Jay,Those fiber washers hold up pretty good?Are you just putting a washer in there a little bit bigger than the worn spot.I would think the roller would just tear that washer up if there was no aluminum behind it.It is definitely worth a try.Thanks
 
I am wondering if the spider is on as tight as the nut?
The spider is torqued to 200 ft lbs and the nut is 235 ft. lbs.
Is there a measurment between the buttons and tower that anyone has?
You should shim them for .002" clearance.

I always put the cover on to check the clearances as that puts the tops of the towers exactly where they will during operation.
 
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Yes the fiber washers are pretty tough, I've done a lot of clutches over the years and no one ever wants to spend any money so you kind of pick up little ways to make them run. Just keep your eyes on your clutches and don't let them get to worn before you rebuild them, I guess thats the best advice I could give you. It always ruins the festive atmosphere of the shop/wrench pulling/beer drinking when you have to say to someone " wow would ya look at the crack in that movable sheave"
 
Okay!learned alot about the way these clutches work over the past couple of weeks,Made my spider removal tool(yes lots of heat on the spider to break the loctite free thanks Jay)installed new buttons and filed them to fit(nice and smooth)The only thing I didnt have was new cam arm bushings(whoops)Assembled the clutch and the cam arms froze up on the spider instantly.Dug through my spare parts and found some brand new arms with good bushings,Made another tool to press out the good bushings and to press back into my existing arms,reassembled and the fricking thing works flawless.Super quiet,no clutch noise what so ever,and it shifts better than it ever has.So to summerize, check cam arm bushings and bolts more often for wear.If the cam arm bushings go then the cam arm drives into the roller at an angle which in turn pushes the roller into the spider,wipes out the plastic washer almost instantly and ruins the spider.Just thought I would update with some success!!!Later crank
 
blast of air

The guys I ride with always get an air nozzle and blast the away all the loose belt dust that collects in the clutches. Saves a lot of money and time,by just cleaning the clutches after each ride. It's surprising how much belt dust collects after one ride.
 
I have two P-85 clutches in the for sale section cheap to help solve problems like this. Rebuilding them is crazy expensive.

ya it's crazy what they get for clutch rebuild parts but still a whole lot cheaper then a new clutch.
 
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