P-85 Broken at he hub...any tip/tricks

[EricW]

Son #2 broke the primary on his TD8 at the hub almost all the way around. The sheeves are no longer parallel to each other and opened up on one side by 1-2 inches if measuring sheeve to sheeve. The bolt is intact but badly bent.

I was thinking of removing the bolt and then trying to align the sheeves back up enough to weld the hub and be able to use a puller tool. Questions:

1. Will welding "set" the taper of the hub/crank making it impossible to pull.

2. Will a welding lead ground enough through the sheeve or will it need to be direct to the hub.

3. Should I put a wet rag behind the inner sheeve and around the crank to protect the seal from heat, or will the heat kill it anyway.

Any other tips or experience pulling the inner sheeve off the crank following a break like this. I know a cutting wheel is an option but I just know with my luck I would nick the crank. That said do you cut it to a point in that method the use a splitter or some other application to not ding the crank.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks. EW

 

[skibreeze]

I don't know about the welding and straightening enough to use a puller. Boston Racing just had to cut his off earlier this year. It makes a mess, but it worked.

 

[IDPOLARIS]

I would try to tig weld it about an inch but have your puller set ready to go the heat would help expand the clutch and and pull off crank with less effort
dont spend a lot of time with the welder so the heat dont transfer threw the crank and seal...

 

[Dartos]

Someone else had this same problem recently. Check out this thread.
Broke Clutch

 

[PalousePoo]

Eric, Guys is Lew just did my 11 pro since it was warrantied. They dissabled the broken shaft off the spider and welded it on so the puller would work. If I was to do it, I would buy a welding blanket to protect the sled, and unplug the computer. They still heated the shaft with a torch on the crank lightly, and after it popped an infared tool only read about 100 degrees I guess. You can call Jake in service and ask him more details. Good luck, John

 

[mtncat1]

carefully cut it off with a die grinder as soon as you get close to the crank tap it with a chisel it should pop right off ,i would not weld or heat crank imo

 

[Jkinzer]

eric we have had a few come through the shop in the last 3 or 4 years broken like the above pic, we just weld the two pieces back together with a heat blanket on the back side of the clutch to protect the oil seal best as possible, don't have to get too crazy with the weld and they hold together good enough to pop them off with the puller.

 

[EricW]

Looks like I'm gonna try the welding first. Im thinking a wet rag on the backside with a water bottle and hose pouring fresh while the welding is being done. Hope to isolate and disapate any heat. I plan to have the ground hooked to the spider/stub so hopefully no juice flows through the taper. I am going to have it tacked with the clutch bolt in then remove the bolt and insert the puller so i am ready to start pulling as soon as the welding is done to take advantage of the hub heat hopefully expanding on the crank taper. We'll see, I'll post pics and results. Thanks to all. EW

This is whats left at the fixed sheeve

This is the movable sheeve

This is how it will look at weld time

Welding in the morning, I'll follow up win or loose. lol.

 

[EricW]

OhhhhhhhhhhhYaaaaaaaaaa..................

The weld n pull trick worked great. Did it the way Kinzer said with a wet rag behind the fixed. Tacked it with a clutch bolt in then switched to the puller hand tight. Finished the weld and cranked on the puller and it popped right off. Slick as hell. Grabbed the crank stub right away and it wasn't hot at all.

Even a blind squirrel gets an acorn once in a while. lol. Thanks all. EW

This is the weld

This is the crank

 

[sunbather1969]

textbook

nice job just the heat alone on the clutch should do the work with minimal heat transfer.