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Over rev & knock occasionally displayed with Silber

Does anyone else get this displayed on there dash with the Silber? Mixing 50/50 av gas & Chevron 94. Also running the factory plug for the TPS sensor. Was told not to use the plug supplied from the kit. Did that before & really ran like crap.
 
Turning clickers up will increase RPM......not what you want to do in this case. Add weight to pins or go to a lighter finish force spring to bring RPMs down.
 
Turning clickers up will increase RPM......not what you want to do in this case. Add weight to pins or go to a lighter finish force spring to bring RPMs down.

Duh I should of got that. Put in 22g & there spring when I installed the kit. Can't Believe Team Aftermarket doesn't have pictures to show the weight of piece. Don't even have it on there website. Find with snowmobiling stuff a lot of companies are good at putting out parts & kits but really suck with instructions. I do a lot of mods to Seadoo's 4-Tec engines & Riva sure does a really goos job at explaining procedures.

Gonna try 24 & see what happens. How much do you got & what psi you running?
 
See the Turbo arm weight post below for my set up. What I have found with set up like yours is you have to run a huge amount of weight to keep the RPM's down. Once you start running as much weight as you are the next step is to move to a lighter finish drive spring to bring the RPMs down. This works to a certain point but once you go too light of a drive spring you lose some of the bottom end throttle response. Do you know what you have in there for a drive spring?
 
Used the spring that came with the kit. Not sure how much of a difference it makes but I got a different Helix in there. Was from my clutch kit before I did the turbo. Also running 21/49 gearing & SLP Y pipe.
 
I run 24 grams pin weight and a shockwave adjustable Helix, and stay away from chevron, that's all eathanal fuel and runs much hotter.... Burnt a sled down on that a few years back...

Find some av gas and mix 50/50... Any time you get a knock sensor go off, you have hurt the engine some so be aware not to have that happen
 
run straight av. not worth the pain of mixing and the lower octane fuel will affect the higher more than you think.

ie: 90oct. and 100oct. mixed 50/50 should be 95 in theory but it isn't. ends up closer to 92-93.
 
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After adding some more pin weight, up to 23, & putting the quick clicks down to 2 it ran much better!!! Was burping the throttle lots & the very odd time it would slightly spudder but nothing like before. Sometimes though when ripping along a bumpy trail the knock & over rev would come on. Wouldn't even be close to opening it up, maybe half throttle. Ever happen to anyone else?

Another thing I noticed is oil keeps leaking from somewhere. After my last ride I added some clamps on the return line since there were none but that didn't fix it. Gonna take it off again & play with the fittings. Don't like to see an oily mess in there. Sure wish I got the sealed Turbo.

IMG_20140211_185123.jpg
 
The knock sensor coming on is not a good thing. Two strokes have a very narrow window of forgiveness for "knock". You need to get that in check asap. More octane or less boost for the fuel being used. 23 gramps of weight is not uncommon depending what's being used for clutching, but I find it odd that your smacking the rev limiter with that much weight and the amount of boost you're running. You must have some aggressive components in there. Get the knock under control first before it cost you pistons, cylinders, head, turbo and maybe cases.
 
I thought you had mentioned how much boost but I didn't see anything stated. How much boost and if you're going to clutch it you need to know what's in it for components.
 
I run 24 grams pin weight and a shockwave adjustable Helix, and stay away from chevron, that's all eathanal fuel and runs much hotter.... Burnt a sled down on that a few years back...

Find some av gas and mix 50/50... Any time you get a knock sensor go off, you have hurt the engine some so be aware not to have that happen

Chevron 94 has 0 ethanol. Do you mean oxygenated ? .
 
Running 7psi. Put in a the primary spring that came with the kit but am using a Tracks Helix. Had from before the turbo. Might put the stock 1 back in.
 
run straight av. not worth the pain of mixing and the lower octane fuel will affect the higher more than you think.

ie: 90oct. and 100oct. mixed 50/50 should be 95 in theory but it isn't. ends up closer to 102-103.

Umm, NO. You can't have higher blended fuel octane than the base fuels your mixing with.
 
mine did this at 8lbs...was told to turn the boost up to 10lb

no more knock sensor/rev limiter. I believe on the Doo this is the same warning you get wether you rev limit or have a knock. SO I believe this was happening around 6000 rpms (this is where mine hit the first day or two until moving the boost up).

something about putting it into another part of the map?
 
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Couple things...

For your elevation and boost you are running plenty of octane so I would be inclined to say you aren't actually seeing true detonation (knock). I don't know how sensitive the stock knock sensor is but be sure you don't have anything coming into contact with the motor and that all of your components are sprung down tightly, just a shot in the dark there.

I would definately go back to at least the stock helix or if you can afford it get a shockwave kit on it with the reverse angle ramps. I'm running far more helix angle than stock. I honestly think what some people are seeing with different clutch setups is a fail safe in the doo ecu that limits the rate of RPM increase and shows up as over rev. Say if you blew a belt or chain under full throttle the fail safe stops it from hitting the rev limiter and anything flying apart. I've tried a few different clutch setups and have found that if you don't slow the shiftout down a little with a stiffer secondary spring or helix angle or both, you may encounter this. The problem is everyone is trying to over come lag with clutching and fueling, getting over the "goat" with clutching will magnify this issue because you are trying to clutch for quick upshift to attain rpm and in turn attain boost as fast as possible... So fixes are heavier clutch weights, stiffer secondary spring, more helix angle IMO.
 
I honestly think what some people are seeing with different clutch setups is a fail safe in the doo ecu that limits the rate of RPM increase and shows up as over rev. Say if you blew a belt or chain under full throttle the fail safe stops it from hitting the rev limiter and anything flying apart.

I cant remember why that same idea is stuck in my head but Its there, would be nice to get some confirmation or a quick test on this but the etec is a fussy motor with a lot of stuff to keep happy as far as how it wants to be run/revved.
 
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