Outer/inner jack shaft bearing replacement

[torkd]

I tried searching for this in another thread but was unsuccessful in finding it.

Yesterday my outer jack shaft bearing on my 2014 st kit completely shredded itself way out in the back country. I was forced to ride it out which caused the inner bearing to go as well. I'm now attempting to replace it; Any tips on the easiest way to remove this thing would be greatly appreciated.

I have a big trip next weekend and don't have time to order parts right from timbersled so I'm hoping I can find the bearing at a local store.

I'm also worried the Jack shaft itself might be toast which will be harder to find without going through Timbersled.

Thanks Guys!

 

[9Miler]

remove end bolts, remove brake caliper remove sprocket get a piece of 7/16 fine threaded rod 8" piece of pipe 1" id use this as a puller to pull shaft remove housing remove snapring press out bearing install 6205 sealed ball bearing if shaft is bad have a machine shop make you one 25 mm 1/4 key install in reverse for next yr pm me I will tell you how to install a 5205 bearing this is a double row bearing and will last alot longer

 

[torkd]

remove end bolts, remove brake caliper remove sprocket get a piece of 7/16 fine threaded rod 8" piece of pipe 1" id use this as a puller to pull shaft remove housing remove snapring press out bearing install 6205 sealed ball bearing if shaft is bad have a machine shop make you one 25 mm 1/4 key install in reverse for next yr pm me I will tell you how to install a 5205 bearing this is a double row bearing and will last alot longer

Awesome thank you very much! I'm able to do all this without taking the entire side panel off? This is my first time as I'm sure you can tell.

 

[9Miler]

yes, and track on bike dont even have to break chain, get some 1/4 key stock and replace keys remember the spacer order an how sprockets face

 

[Hbmtr]

just a quick question.how many hrs. of use before bearings failed?

 

[torkd]

just a quick question.how many hrs. of use before bearings failed?

I'm pretty close to 50 hrs. I think I know what I did to wreck it though. I was stuck on a side hill and pinned it while rocking it side to side. Wasn't the first time I've done that but the bearing was shot about 10 minutes after that.

 

[kell8071]

pm me I will tell you how to install a 5205 bearing this is a double row bearing and will last alot longer

Can you post how you pulled this off? Simple as just cutting a new snap ring groove?

Kell

 

[9Miler]

Machine out the shoulder make a S'S retainer plate shorten spacers 500.00 I will convert all 4 bearings to 5205 double bearings don't even have to take kit off bike price includes all parts except if shafts are worn.

 

[Hbmtr]

I'm pretty close to 50 hrs. I think I know what I did to wreck it though. I was stuck on a side hill and pinned it while rocking it side to side. Wasn't the first time I've done that but the bearing was shot about 10 minutes after that.

thx for your reply.50 hrs seems reasonable.think i will upgrade to the double bearing and housing that T S will be offering from the 2015 M Y.

 

[Frostbite]

I had the same thing happen yesterday. Except mine is the drive shaft bearing. I was climbing a hill, had the throttle open and all of a sudden I heard and felt this horrible sound. I knew my track was loose and though that maybe my track was ratcheting. Once I let off the gas it sounded better so I thought it was the track being loose for a while.

Then I got stuck and gave it some gas after digging out and heard the sound again. When I heard it this time, I thought my chain case chain was loose. So, we popped off the chain case cover and my chain was loose as heck. I tightened it as tight as it would go without eating the side of the chain case (it did it anyway). I rode the bike back to the truck and removed the chain cover today to try to figure out why the chain had so much slack.

When I removed the chain case cover, I was puzzled to see the chain was now tight.

It didn't take long to see that the sprocket on the drive shaft now moves up and down. Does that mean both the inner and outer bearings are bad? I guess I need to look at a schematic of how this thing is built to see what I have.

Does one have to remove the rear suspension (skid) to change the bearings? Is there two bearings on each side of the drive shaft? Do the same instructions above apply to changing the drive shaft bearing?

 

[summitboy]

Wow. Funny how all these bearing failures are all different and never happen LOL. I kinda have a real problem with this stuff. These bikes have the potential to get you way in the backcountry and these cheesy bearing failures can leave u major stranded. I lack confidense in the snowbike thing because of it. They don't have anywhere near the reliability of a sled !

When I leave the truck I worry about getting out of the hills on my own power lol. Too much flex and no solution other than buying a 2015 kit with double row bearings. Even with a 2013/2014 kit with the upgrade bearing kit that will be prob close to a G Note, still doesn't add the strength to the sides like the integrated chain case.

When you pay 6-7000 for a kit it should be bomb proof period !

 

[Frostbite]

It's hard to disagree with you Summitboy. Although, I know Timbersled is doing everything they can to improve bearing life.

As you know, I am brand new to the snowbike thing and the cost of new kit drove me toward buying a used bike with a kit installed. It's a 2012 kit with the upgraded greasable bearing.

Based on this failure that darn near left me in the back country. I am thinking I should probably replace all of the bearings (since I don't know how long the bearings have been in service). If I do that, I should probably upgrade to the new double row bearings as well. At this point I am just hoping my drive shaft isn't destroyed.

How do I remove the lower gear? I am planning on using a puller.

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

bearing the failures

dribbled the ball bearings out of my left side driveshaft bearing in what could have been a real poor location if it had really come way apart,......... tightened chain and limp wimped to the truck.
Just toooo much flex in the side panels, and in my homemade kit I anticipated the problem and still didn't make enough bearing swivel to allow enough for the flex'n going on. so the bottom bearing went, took the top shaft bearing and you know the right side drive bearing is junk now.

new bur'ns from Fafnir in an American made box, adding two side case gussets to see if something else will break.

built my first kit with trimmed down arctic cat chain case, two plus years of riding and no bearing failures, or chain and sprocket wear.

So this summer I'm thinking of machining the chain case part of the side panel from 3/8 stock and them rivet it all together. Frankenstien engineering.
Lots of room for innervation and improvemunts. call it an adventure.

 

[camo323]

I just changed out two sets of bearings a couple weeks ago. Some helpful hints that were shared with me is to spray penetrating oil the night before, gently heat drive or jack shaft bolts to help loosen loctite, need a puller to get sprockets off, pay attention to spacer and sprocket placement.

I just loosened my track to get drive shaft out and took it to the bench to work out. A good set of snap ring pliers makes your life easier as we'll. take pics if u need to before taking apart. Good luck!

 

[summitboy]

I agree TS is trying hard to make it better. Allen has been awesome to deal with and I have talked to him at length about the kits and bikes. Greasable bearings are garbage with the flex that happens on the pre 15 kits.

I'm sure there will be a upgrade kit. The price has yet to be announced. I'm tired of paying for parts and shipping for a 5000-7000 dollar kit that has 6 -10 rides on it. I don't use the TS bearings because they are Chinese junkers and costly to get them here. You need to replace them every year plain and simple.

Plastic gears, lame tensioners, and flex is getting old. Change it, plain and simple. One bolt to hold the chitty tensioner almost seems like a step backwards. Make the kits like the bike. Strong and reliable !

PS. A little heat and a puller will remove the gears.

 

[Frostbite]

Thanks, I will get some heat on the shaft and sprocket as I attempt to pull the gear off.

I see the parts page on the Timbersled site but, is there a schematic that gives a better picture of what goes where? It will probably be very simple once I have done it but, it sure would be nice to know what it is supposed to look like.

This is my first time on one of these bearings. Once I pull the sprocket/gear off, then what? Do I have to loosen the track and move the drive shaft out the other side of the frame somehow to get the bearing housing off?

Can someone please explain how to change a drive shaft bearing?

 

[summitboy]

Take both gears off. Then remove the entire side panel. Yank the shaft. You can do it without loosening the track or removing the skid. I put it all back together loose and hang the back end and make sure it's all turning nice and free. Then tighten it all up. I use SKF Explorer bearings. The greasable bearings don't last any longer IMO.

 

[M5-]

I just did all 4 of mine and so did my other buddy both of ours were DONE. The grease isn't the issue, the system for adding grease actually works pretty good and the grease gets in there yet the bearings still fail, it's the movement and ability of the bearings to misalign themselves which eats the bearings and sometimes shafts. If you are riding a kit with more than I'd say 30 hours on it check your bearings, more than say 50 hours just go ahead and replace them way cheaper and easier to do it in the heated shop then on the hill somewhere or pay for a heli ride.

M5

 

[Frostbite]

Thanks for the removal tips.

OK, I will pull both gears and remove the entire side panel. I don't get this part, but it sounds dirty "Yank the shaft".

If the side panel is off, don't I just remove the bearing housing and replace the bearing? I can't really "Yank the shaft" because it has the track and drivers on it, right?

Are the drive shaft bearings part of the new upgrade kit available?

What is the brand new greasable double row bearing setup? Is it only going to be for the Jackshaft, or for both the driveshaft and jackshaft?

Since I don't know the history, I would like to update all 4 bearings (right?) to the newest longest lasting style.

I wonder why roller bearings aren't used in place of ball bearings? It seems they would be much better at handling the inconsistent load a snowbike presents?

Update: I saw this info posted by M5 in another thread.

"I talked extensively with TS 2 weeks ago about the new bearing system as a result of my driveshaft going south. From my conversation the update for older kits will be as follows. Only 3 of the bearings become dual race, the bearing carrying the brake rotor has not displayed enough failures to warrant the upgrade. In order to update your existing kit you will need to remove both the drive and jackshaft. The drive shaft you will have 2 options, first option is to replace it with a newly supplied version and the second option is to have your existing driveshaft machined to accept the additional bearing width. Either way you will need to remove your drivers and re install them. For the jackshaft I am assuming there will be new spacer/collars to accommodate the new outer bearing. Lastly you will need to assemble your kit in perfect alignment the drill the 2 extra bearing retainer bolts hole into your side plates for all three of the new bearings. The big question in my mind is when and how much $$.


M5


I think I might just wait and update all my bearings to the new style (minus the jackshaft brake side bearing, which will be replaced but, with what? What is the absolute best standard bearing available?

 

[9Miler]

You dont need to remove sidepanels they flex enough to remove drive shaft with the bearing housings just remove the first 2 front bolts opposite chaincase side, Go to Kaman get sealed 6205 SKF bearings they are the best there is, roller bearings wont take side load side load is what is causing these failures or you can go with option I stated ealier