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OSP now has 2 stroke STANDALONE EFI with COP ignition

With the use of STM KOT sled, and lots of hours we got this 2 stroke standalone up and working, this is the next step to running big boost and big turbos, with safety features OVER BOOST, OVERHEAT, OVER REV,

also has the best 2 step available the user is able to just set RPM you can set how the limiter is configured starting points, and ending points in TPS and fuel and timing while you on 2 step,

also has a launch table to control starting line boost , output for external boost controller

the data logger a lone is worth the money you can data log every thing you can think of,it like have Dyno on board .

this ECU is MAP based so when you lug down your 2 stroke on boost you will not DETO

this system is going to allow you to run more safe and reliable boost.

Now that we have this up and working this will work on any 2 stroke 2 cyl 3 cly or 4 cyl with or with out boost.



we will have pricing on our web site, soon...



come next is Z1 standalone system this will be for the big turbo guys that want BIG HP and a adjustable 2 step should be out in 2 weeks.

Here's a clip, Mark dynoed before we installed system and after, with the standalone made more power at same boost and lazy tune.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gyyh4Y5FZvk

Jim
 
Good job guys!

Is it me or does it sound like it is popping a lot on the bottom end? Not sure if it is the recording or not?
 
if its coming from the OSP stables, you know its gunna work good!

Another step in the right direction! great job guys!!
 
Strange. When people post that a stand alone ECU is in development, the forum goes nuts. OSP claim to have one that is apparently finished, and practically nothing?
 
Does not this standalone operate the powervalves? And how is it done with the power supply? With or without battery?


NO we are using STM Valves that work like a Skidoo with pressure and vacuum


Let me try and explain a few things. The problem with the piggie back systems are they are just that... The stock ECU was designed to use TPS to and RPM to control timing so lets say you take off and run 8000 RPM and are spinning and the all of sudden you hook up and RPM Drops to 7000 YOUR STILL AT BOOST.. and the timing is base off RPM guess what you just added 5-8 degrees of timing, and that is why guys are blowing head gasket and motors, with our system we are MAP based and when on boost you will always be in the correct timing for boost... the other problem is the stock fly wheel has 3 teeth that creates the resolution that means stock can only make timing changes every 180 degrees, with our system we make timing adjustments every 15 degrees.. this has a much better control over timing..

I hope this helps you guys understand better.. thanks Jim
 
In your vid is there a reason why the springs connecting your Y-pipe and pipe are not tighter. Seems like a lot of movement to me?

Congrats on your standalone!!

How much??
 
In your vid is there a reason why the springs connecting your Y-pipe and pipe are not tighter. Seems like a lot of movement to me?

Congrats on your standalone!!

How much??

Mark tighten them up and made more power on the dyno, ha but since then he has added heavier springs so that don't happen in the field...

I thought it was cool to see how much back pressure there is to force the pipe off that's why I video it.. nothing really to do with standalone..

thanks for the Kind words...
 
NO we are using STM Valves that work like a Skidoo with pressure and vacuum


Let me try and explain a few things. The problem with the piggie back systems are they are just that... The stock ECU was designed to use TPS to and RPM to control timing so lets say you take off and run 8000 RPM and are spinning and the all of sudden you hook up and RPM Drops to 7000 YOUR STILL AT BOOST.. and the timing is base off RPM guess what you just added 5-8 degrees of timing, and that is why guys are blowing head gasket and motors, with our system we are MAP based and when on boost you will always be in the correct timing for boost... the other problem is the stock fly wheel has 3 teeth that creates the resolution that means stock can only make timing changes every 180 degrees, with our system we make timing adjustments every 15 degrees.. this has a much better control over timing..

I hope this helps you guys understand better.. thanks Jim

I am also putting standalone on my sled and I am using the factory powervalves. I am not done with the install yet, a lot of work to get it hooked up when I dont have a fitted kit.
It seems that this you have here is easy to install and work on right?
Good to see that you guys are going out with standalone for our 2 strokes.
I am excited to see how my sled are going to work when it is done.
 
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