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OSP motor mount on '13 1100 turbo

iroc1132

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
So last night I finally got around to installing my OSP engine bump stop, jack shaft support and left rear polyethylene motor mount. The engine bump stop and jack shaft support are a easy install and look like they will function as advertised. My concern comes with the polyethylene motor mount. The factory rubber mount imo is a joke. (I wouldn't put that squishy mount on a fan cooled 340) Before I added anything I put a 16" pry bar under the jackshaft bearing mount and with as little as 5 pounds of force could move the whole engine/shaft assembly almost 1/2". I installed the polyethylene mount (which took a little craft leaving the tank and TCL in place) and then checked the movement again. There is none. That mount makes everything solid. Now I worry about those flimsy little aluminum tabs that the mount bolts to on the frame. Am I going to have issues with those breaking off? Who else has done this mod or just replaced the mount? Have I helped to minimize one problem only to create another?:face-icon-small-con
My sled has the 215 flash, all the evo intake stuff and exhaust. I bought the sled last April with 350 miles on it and was told it had only blown one belt. The condition of the belt guard backs up that story. So I don't think this sled is a habitual belt blower. I was just hoping to prevent any problems from coming up.
Did I screw up with that hard motor mount or will it be ok with the bump stop and jack shaft support helping to support the load?
Your thoughts please.
 
I saw those on evo's website. My biggest question is should I be worried?
I guess if I had a BC or SC setup it would be a no brainer in my mind. But just a 215 flash, am I stressing over nothing?
 
I would be cautious. Hopefully the bump stop takes a little load off the tabs. Like it was posted above, there have been issues with the tabs and I have heard of a bunch when used in conjunction with stiffer mounts. If it was me, I would stick with the stock mounts and just use the engine and jackshaft supports.
 
The stock motor mounts crack the heat exchanger tabs also. My dealer had 2 stock sleds with cracked motor mount tabs on sleds with no tunes on either.
 
I like the stiffer mounts. I have a pair that are going into my sled tonight. I am interested in what was the real cause of the tabs cracking. Is it vibration? Or is it the fact that the stock rubbers allowed for such a huge amount of movement that the engine was allowed to wobbled in the stock mount and therefore exert alot of force onto the tab say when landing hard off a jump or coming down hard off a wheelie. In my opinion I think the new rubber mounts(i have evo ones) will still soak up vibrations and not allow huge movements of a heavy engine to gain momentum before the abrupt stop from a wobbled rubber mount. The Evo ones are polyurethane though and the same duro as stock. I am not sure about the OSP ones.

Either way. This is my personal sled and I am into learning things whether with good or bad outcomes. As for my customers I definately reccomend the rear motor mounts to remove the stock heat exchanger tabs because it is the ONLY way I can guarentee that the stock tabs are not going to crack the heat exhanger and leak.
 
Last edited:
No worries

I am running several of the OSP stops at sea level with the 250+ "flashes" and excellent traction (lots of torque in there). Some flex but but we have not been concerned!
 
Quote:
[ I am interested in what was the real cause of the tabs cracking. Is it vibration? Or is it the fact that the stock rubbers allowed for such a huge amount of movement that the engine was allowed to wobbled in the stock mount and therefore exert alot of force onto the tab say when landing hard off a jump or coming down hard off a wheelie. ]

My thoughts exactly. After seeing how soft and squishy the factory mounts are, it makes me wonder if the damage is from the shock load of the engine dropping on a hard landing or whatever. The amount of free play in that mount gives the engine a running start before it hits hard at the end of its travel. If the amount of travel is restricted then the shock load will be reduced as well.

I appreciate the fact that you are willing to test theories like this on your own sled rather than your customers. I have seen a lot of dealer experiments that "should have worked" and left the customer holding the broken pieces.

:rockon:
 
I did over 30 of the OSP stoppers and braces last year. They work very well for the cost. They did not solve all belt blower issues, but they contribute to the fix. I also did some of the engine brackets. If you do stiffer motor mounts its just good piece of mind for mountain guys. If stock can crack them then anything more than stock can. Can't always tow out where your coolant dumps on the ground.
 
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