Ordering SLP mtx weights; how to ???s

[mickyd32]

So I broke down and ordered myself a new clutch this year, at about 3000 miles now. Had some issues last year with flattened rollers causing issues and so on. Rebuilt it at about 2200. I know it was starting to wear into the spider and things just aren't as tight as they should be. So I went new


Anyhow I openee it up yesterday to do some spring/ weight change overs and decided piss on it. It's a new clutch it should get ALL new parts. I run either 10-66 or 11-68 polaris weights typically in my set up at home. I've been having issues gettin top rpm. 66s putme at about 8050. 10-68s pull me over to 8450

So I want to go adds table and be able to mess with it a little and hit 8250. Anyhow the catalogue says to take whatever weight you run and add 4g. Well the options are 67g or 71g for the mtx weights. Which ones do I go with? Will 67s allow me to tune up to get the extra 200 Rpme out? If I got 71s will I have any adjustability left without being too heavy?

 

[powerfuldodge]

Go with dalton adjustable... Mtx are a pain to adjust the weight . I had them bought the tool for installing and removing but it's to much work ,

 

[BILTIT]

I second dalton adjustables, they work great.

 

[Trenchmaster]

Another option is the Rooster adjustables, I agree with the other posters, the MTX weights are a pain in the butt to adjust.

 

[damx]

If you go the mtx. Get the 68g and add the weight you need. From what I have seen, start in the hole closest to the pin. When that hole is max out, go to the tip and add weight.

 

[geo]

MO after filling a drawer with weights over the years lol.

Mixing profiles (10 and 11 series) can be confusing. Pick one series that feels best all around. Weight them to be able to compare apples to apples.

SLP base wt. pick is important because you can't change the heel (the part up to 35 to 40 mph with stock Pro gearing). They should be almost be considered non adjustable because they are a pain to adjust in the field (where you should be finalizing your weight) and you need a bunch of rivets if you want to try different tip and mid combos.
And,,, they need to be heavier. Why?

Dalton are the simplest to adjust in field but getting the perfect weight distribution for the whole shift range takes some thinking and maybe different alloys of set screws.
IMO an old set of Cat Cutlers is a better pick for this style because you can set the full shift at the tip (only one day of taking off the primary cover) then adjust low and mid with an assembled clutch as needed. Their profile and weight distribution of the base weight is a bit better for a lower geared mtn. sled IMO too.

I haven't tried the Team weights but they look good with full shift range adjustability but I have used weights that adjust from the side in the past and feel for myself that they wear the bushings, rollers and towers a bit quicker than other styles.
Again, all my own opinion.

The original designer of adjustable weights (you don't really need them though, find the correct solid weight for home and most will be happy) still sells the same style. I use these Thunder Product HHers.
They come with a very good selection of bolts and washers so even the most anal lol of clutch tuners can get perfection. Simple clutch set-up-tuning guide that makes you wonder why it is difficult for some. Weight is placed from the bottom up for mid and high(so not the easiest for in field but doable) but weight centered IMO causes less component wear over the long run. Heel is done from the top and allows quick changes (as well as shows you how much this part of the weight balance effects deep snow rpm).

My favourite part about these weights (besides the quality) is the profile. Aggressive enough that when finally set-up correctly their mass will be a gram or more lighter than a stock weight (primary spring staying the same) yet still provide all the squeeze and shift force needed.
Why? What gets flung out must return and centrifugal force makes it harder the heavier the total mass. Backshift is the compromise in mountain clutching. We need more usually. From 2 to 50mph all day long, as quick as it can be.
If the primary needs less help to backshift that can leave you room in the secondary for more performance.

You asked lol, so I gave you my opinion.

 

[mickyd32]

I was considering adjustable mostly because the set weight profiles I have tried haven't gotten me the results I wanted

As per mix matching 10 and 11 series weights, I stick to 10 series. I got a set of 11 series as an experiment and didn't like the results

 

[geo]

MO. Weight profile (for full shift, meaning engagement to OD) has been tuned in by experts a long time ago. Especially with the P85-Comet set-up that has remained the same for so long.

MO. New profiles designed to enhance one point of the shift take away from one or more of the others (like top end or engagement). This sometimes makes it impossible to get a flat shift and one end or another losses performance for a slight advantage in one area. When you start to slip it is very difficult to stop the slip.

KISS and tuning becomes simply putting in the correct amount of weight in the correct hole to get the rpm you want for that area of shift (MPH scale) no matter what you have for a secondary set-up.
Tuning the secondary, if you want (most stock stuff is pretty close today), then becomes easier because you just learned to separate shift point based on mph not rpm and don't have to over compensate to the backshift side.

Swing 'em light lol.

 

[AKtoad]

I run mtx 71g with 3g of pin weight last year and over revved. This year I am set for 5g of pin weight with the 71g mtx weights. Takes less than 10 minutes to adjust weight on the mtx's. Drill press and arbor press makes the job a snap.

 

[geo]

I run mtx 71g with 3g of pin weight last year and over revved. This year I am set for 5g of pin weight with the 71g mtx weights. Takes less than 10 minutes to adjust weight on the mtx's. Drill press and arbor press makes the job a snap.

Even easier with the tool but still, there are better concepts out there.

About 6 to10mins per weight (depending if you are doing one or two) after you remove the weights and throw away the rivet after use vs. remove the cover, swing out the weights, adjust, save the weight if you decide to go back.

Nothing wrong with rivets unless you've tried the others. Nothing wrong with two holes until you've tried three.

 

[BILTIT]

That's why I like the Daltons, 10 mins to adjust all three.

 

[die hard poo]

If going with MTX weights (which I like compared to roosters, mdx, and stock), go with 71G base, and start with 2g in the heel and tip empty with a SLP blue/pink spring. I haven't tried the Thunder products due to the cost of their weight compared to MTXs, but I am sure they are nice. I just prefer the shift speed of MTX and my familiarity of tuning them and the price.

 

[green_denali]

weights

What elevation do you ride at?? If you don't thru a lot of elevation changes, get the MTX's, if not, then get a weight that's easier to adjust. I ride in the 0-3000ft range & have the 68g mtx's, 2 grams in the belly & 1 gram in the tip. The lightest weight was 67.7 grams so I grinded down the other 2 to match.
What are you running for your primary spring? The SLP bue/pink, green/pink & team bright green work better than stock (give you more rpm's). Keep your secondary spring stock & put 3 delrin washers in your secondary, 1 on each side of the spring & 1 under the spring cup. I have ran 1 & 2 washers, but 3 works the best (awesome backshift) & there cheap. I like the mtx's, MUCH better than stock. Hope this helps.

 

[mickyd32]

I'm running the blue pink. Stock weights 2-3000 feet

Secondary untouched.

 

[sledneck_03]

So I broke down and ordered myself a new clutch this year, at about 3000 miles now. Had some issues last year with flattened rollers causing issues and so on. Rebuilt it at about 2200. I know it was starting to wear into the spider and things just aren't as tight as they should be. So I went new


Anyhow I openee it up yesterday to do some spring/ weight change overs and decided piss on it. It's a new clutch it should get ALL new parts. I run either 10-66 or 11-68 polaris weights typically in my set up at home. I've been having issues gettin top rpm. 66s putme at about 8050. 10-68s pull me over to 8450

So I want to go adds table and be able to mess with it a little and hit 8250. Anyhow the catalogue says to take whatever weight you run and add 4g. Well the options are 67g or 71g for the mtx weights. Which ones do I go with? Will 67s allow me to tune up to get the extra 200 Rpme out? If I got 71s will I have any adjustability left without being too heavy?

email slp, they get back to you right away.

 

[mickyd32]

email slp, they get back to you right away.

That wasy original thought. However I started this thread on a Friday evening when I assumed they would all be away to Monday morning. ?

 

[richracer1]

Just an FYI, The weight my 68gm MTX's were off. One weighed 67.7, another 67.5, and 67.3. Sanded the 2 down to match the 67.3 weight.

Regardless of brand, check the actual weight of your weights.

I switch to EPI Belly Busters - recommended by a friend that knows clutch weights.

 

[mickyd32]

Always weight them with my digital scale