On the IQ RMK’s… My swaybar thoughts.
Here’s my take on the subject…
I have been getting quite a few PM’s and emails about swaybars on the IQ RMK’s equipped Walker Evans airs…or other shocks that are sprung/valved for use with a sway bar.
Before you may get all riled up… I do believe that you can get good performance from the sleds without a swaybar… but your shocks will need to be re-sprung/valved… IMO… it is not possible to get optimum performance from a IQ RMK’s with Walker Evans Air Shocks or basic Float shocks (non Float 2’s) WITHOUT a swaybar.
This conversation is for the "Average Joe/Josephine" that does not have upgraded shocks or years of riding experience.
With the IQ chassis (non Race/RR) ... and those shocks...with the sway bar out... for the most part…. you are really not getting the sled "on edge" even though it may feel like it...You are compressing the front shock and flexing the track.
Many people have this misconception…. I Did too (until I worked with Dan Adams on my technique)
When the shock is collapsed, there is little travel remaining to deal with rough terrain or crusty snow. Even more evident on a steep side hill when the body panels are riding deep in the snow and want to push you back down the hill… usually resulting in a roll over or requiring that you turn down the hill and going, usually, where you don’t want to go.
Truly getting the sled "on edge" DOES require more effort (to learn) and balance... It takes a practice to get comfortable with it... but the efforts over a few days of riding will, IMO, transform your riding. Once you "get it"... there is not much effort to the tequnique and you don't get tired on long sidehills.
With the proper swaybar OR new shocks that are valved and sprung for no swaybar... the sled will get up on edge well and hold a line without the shock collapsing on a steep sidehill... and kept the travel in the shock to deal with terrain and not get bucked back down the hill...Nor buck you off when doing powder carves in a meadow.
Yes, you can throw it around easier without the swaybar out...BUT... this is a dead-giveaway that you need to work on your riding techniques...
I had the same misunderstanding and needed to work on it. This is the key to better riding on a Mountain sled IMO.
BTW...With the Stock Walker Evans Air shocks...IMO.. there is no real way to get them to work well for a sled that has no swaybar. The Assault Walker Air Piggybacks are "better" but not at all "ideal" for most riders without a swaybar... I know of many 2009 Assault riders that retrofitted a swaybar for their mountain riding
Cranking up the preload on the spring or putting more air in the shock is not the answer either as you can get into coil bind or the air-shock does not want to compress fully and gets super stiff… especially in the standard floats. Plus… this throws off the engineered balance of the sled... though some people adapt to it.
In the end... it boils down to practice... get into a packed out field and spend the day getting and keeping your sled on edge in left and right turns. Throttle control is important here too. Sometimes, like for me, it took an hour of literally walking next to my sled with it on edge and controlling the throttle, skis and balance of the sled before I could ride it that way.
You should be able to ride on one ski indefinitely, with little effort, once you have perfected the technique.
My 2 cents.
Here’s my take on the subject…
I have been getting quite a few PM’s and emails about swaybars on the IQ RMK’s equipped Walker Evans airs…or other shocks that are sprung/valved for use with a sway bar.
Before you may get all riled up… I do believe that you can get good performance from the sleds without a swaybar… but your shocks will need to be re-sprung/valved… IMO… it is not possible to get optimum performance from a IQ RMK’s with Walker Evans Air Shocks or basic Float shocks (non Float 2’s) WITHOUT a swaybar.
This conversation is for the "Average Joe/Josephine" that does not have upgraded shocks or years of riding experience.
With the IQ chassis (non Race/RR) ... and those shocks...with the sway bar out... for the most part…. you are really not getting the sled "on edge" even though it may feel like it...You are compressing the front shock and flexing the track.
Many people have this misconception…. I Did too (until I worked with Dan Adams on my technique)
When the shock is collapsed, there is little travel remaining to deal with rough terrain or crusty snow. Even more evident on a steep side hill when the body panels are riding deep in the snow and want to push you back down the hill… usually resulting in a roll over or requiring that you turn down the hill and going, usually, where you don’t want to go.
Truly getting the sled "on edge" DOES require more effort (to learn) and balance... It takes a practice to get comfortable with it... but the efforts over a few days of riding will, IMO, transform your riding. Once you "get it"... there is not much effort to the tequnique and you don't get tired on long sidehills.
With the proper swaybar OR new shocks that are valved and sprung for no swaybar... the sled will get up on edge well and hold a line without the shock collapsing on a steep sidehill... and kept the travel in the shock to deal with terrain and not get bucked back down the hill...Nor buck you off when doing powder carves in a meadow.
Yes, you can throw it around easier without the swaybar out...BUT... this is a dead-giveaway that you need to work on your riding techniques...
I had the same misunderstanding and needed to work on it. This is the key to better riding on a Mountain sled IMO.
BTW...With the Stock Walker Evans Air shocks...IMO.. there is no real way to get them to work well for a sled that has no swaybar. The Assault Walker Air Piggybacks are "better" but not at all "ideal" for most riders without a swaybar... I know of many 2009 Assault riders that retrofitted a swaybar for their mountain riding
Cranking up the preload on the spring or putting more air in the shock is not the answer either as you can get into coil bind or the air-shock does not want to compress fully and gets super stiff… especially in the standard floats. Plus… this throws off the engineered balance of the sled... though some people adapt to it.
In the end... it boils down to practice... get into a packed out field and spend the day getting and keeping your sled on edge in left and right turns. Throttle control is important here too. Sometimes, like for me, it took an hour of literally walking next to my sled with it on edge and controlling the throttle, skis and balance of the sled before I could ride it that way.
You should be able to ride on one ski indefinitely, with little effort, once you have perfected the technique.
My 2 cents.
