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ok this dam clutch will not come off any suggestions

B

BigFish BC

Well-known member
have tried the grease trick ,water trick beat on the puller if the crank was ok befor we started i dont think it will be now.never seen a clutch seized on like this.had it off last year too so iam not sure what is going on already totalled one clutch puller 2nd one isnt looking so good now.:mad::confused:
 
I was gonna say heat....are you usin a 1/2 inpact gun?? Try one.....lotta times couple rattles with that and it will knock it off. I mean a real one....at 175psi....:)
 
After you have a LOT of torque on the clutch puller give the head of the bolt a hard hit with a hammer. Then try heating and repeat hopefully leads to :beer;:beer;:D
 
Heat, on bad stuck clutchs. I found propane two slow, hot wrench consentrates more intense heat on the clutch and less heat gets to the crank because the dam clutch leaps off the crank sooner. Keep presure on the puller at the same time. Good luck Dino
 
I had one like that 2 years ago. it took me all winter & 2 wrecked pullers. it took nuclear fusion heat on the inside shaft of the clutch & constantly tightening the puller. When it popped it allmost sounded like a gun going off. No damage to crank or clutch. Junior member...wtf????????
 
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finally came put water in it tightened it up & froze it then re tightened it almost took my buddies head off when it came off.
thanks guys:beer;:beer;
 
I've always had good luck giving them a little time with the puller in. Give it a little torque every 15 or 20 minutes and they come off real easy. Sometimes I'll leave the puller in overnight and they'll pop on the own by morning. Anyway, glad you got it off and hope you can get that crank rebuilt.
 
I agree with the impact wrench. Impacts and pullers were meant for eachother. An impact does not act like a hammer drill. I think they are much easier on a crank than taking a hammer to your puller and putting all that side load shock on your crank!!!!!!!!!
 
Question?

This might sound kind of dumb! But when torque the clutch on are you doing it like it is reccommended to be torqued = mountain max torque to 88foot pounds loosen bolt then torque to 44 foot pounds. Since I started following the torque spec I have not had any problem getting the clutchs removed on all 5 of my sleds! I don't no if the spec is the same on a four stroke or not.
 
This is great advice "shortman". I use to torq them on and always fought to get them off. Until I seen the same torq spec on my manual. Have not had a bit of trouble sence.


This might sound kind of dumb! But when torque the clutch on are you doing it like it is reccommended to be torqued = mountain max torque to 88foot pounds loosen bolt then torque to 44 foot pounds. Since I started following the torque spec I have not had any problem getting the clutchs removed on all 5 of my sleds! I don't no if the spec is the same on a four stroke or not.
 
I may be a little over cautious but I'd never put an impact wrench on good cases\crank or hit it with a hammer for that matter unless it was already seized. Factory tolerances not very good and those cases aren't tough. Banging on them is just asking for a bearing to spin.
 
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