Oilpump bleeding

[stem]

Hi
Did a piston change on my 2011 PRMK, now I have " a ton" of air in the oil line, is it possible to bleed the pump without pulling half the sled apart? Or if someone got another method I'd appreciate the info.
And the final thing, if someone had a pic shoving how you do this I'd be happy
Thanks

 

[Murph]

If you only did the top end... I'm assuming you did not pull the oil pump off and the air is between the tank and the pump?

If this is the case, disconnect the hose from oil reservoir and use a syringe filled with oil to fill the oil line before reconnecting to the tank.

Upon startup, use a wire hook to "grab" the oil pump arm so you can have the oil pump at max during the initial start up.

Also, premix your first gas tank to 32-50:1.

As long as you checked your ring gap and everything is torqued to spec, you should be all set.

Now pull the cord!

 

[xc6rider]

Theirs an access panel that can come off the bottom, I believe... Or just takes some work like you say to fit in there



Murph's got a good option as well!

 

[Murph]

The "access panel" you are talking about is riveted on (no big deal) , the problem is it is also attached with Lords adhesive (doh!).

 

[stem]

If you only did the top end... I'm assuming you did not pull the oil pump off and the air is between the tank and the pump?

If this is the case, disconnect the hose from oil reservoir and use a syringe filled with oil to fill the oil line before reconnecting to the tank.

Upon startup, use a wire hook to "grab" the oil pump arm so you can have the oil pump at max during the initial start up.

Also, premix your first gas tank to 32-50:1.

As long as you checked your ring gap and everything is torqued to spec, you should be all set.

Now pull the cord!

Your'e bang on the money
I have tryed to pull the leaver to the oilpump with a hook, and had it running for 5-10 mins and saw the oil go down the hose and took off the hook
But after a few houndred meters I stopped for a check, and the hose was empty all the way down to the plastic insulation.
I'll do the syringe trick, hopefully it'll get rid of the air.

On another note: Ring gap and premix=Check
Two pulls and it started right up

 

[xTonyCRx]

In the past if I noticed a bubble in the line right at the tank I tip it on its side and reach in with a set of pliers and squeeze the line. With it on its side it pushes the air bubble out and let's oil back in. It takes a few squeezes but works well. It avoids getting oil every where but it sounds like you have a lot of air so this may not work for you.

 

[stem]

xTonyCRx: I have heard a rumor that you should do this on the -12/-13 models of Arctic, and that it's recommended to do when you do top end work as I did.

So in conclusion: I'm going to pull the hose, use an syringe to fill it, clean up the mess and put the sled on it's side with the oiltank on top.
I'll keep you posted...

 

[stem]

Success!
Pulled the oil line and filled 2-3 ml with oil with a syringe, hooked the oilpump leaver and fired it up. I placed the sled up against an snow edge with the oil tank on top and let it idle there for 10min.
After that I drove it into the trailer, tipped it over and let it set there over night on it's side.
Now we are ready for the 2ft of fresh pow that fell this night, just gotta get off work first.......