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Oil Pump Adjustment

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I have ran my 12 with the adjustment screw flush withe the lock nut for 1300 miles (mtn miles not trail) this year and didn't have one issue with plugs. I ran the stock plugs the whole year. Dona's long as u let ur engine warm up to norm temp before getting on the throttle, u should be fine.

I have 900 plus miles on my 12 PRO and ran it with the oil pump turned up 3 turns and I added 1 ounce of Polaris VES Gold per gallon of gas in the tank. The sled still has the original spark plugs and it ran great. I think I could be burning even more oil before the plugs would foul. 2 stroke engines need oil!
 
What is the factory set them at?

They vary from what I've seen. Before I adjusted the oil pump on my '12 last year I was running ~ 70:1 :face-icon-small-sho

On mine I did 5 turns to get to 38:1. A lot of others I've seen only need 3 turns to get to the desired 40:1 ratio, depends on the machine. Just need to ride and measure oil vs gas consumption and then adjust if needed.

Just be careful when adjusting the oil pump to not bend the bracket from over torque on the jam nut. It can bend easier than you think.
 
You are right. Watch your oil burn rate and if it works for you than all is good. The important thing is to watch. Unless you have a warrenty and are going to sell it before the warrenty runs out. However if it does break it will be in the middle of the season when there is four feet of fresh.
 
They vary from what I've seen. Before I adjusted the oil pump on my '12 last year I was running ~ 70:1 :face-icon-small-sho

On mine I did 5 turns to get to 38:1. A lot of others I've seen only need 3 turns to get to the desired 40:1 ratio, depends on the machine. Just need to ride and measure oil vs gas consumption and then adjust if needed.

Just be careful when adjusting the oil pump to not bend the bracket from over torque on the jam nut. It can bend easier than you think.

I think I will just run it and see what happens. It sounds like it is hit or miss on the engine problems. I buy a new sled every 2-years.
 
PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG.

No let me TELL YOU A LITTLE BIT OF INFORMATION! The LINKAGE style oil pump puts out (supposedly) a 40:1 ratio after about 2/3 throttle (it's wide open at that point) so ALL YOU'RE DOING by turning them up is using more oil at idle/low throttle. I couldn't figure out why I still wasn't burning enough oil even with the pump turned up - now I know why! These are different than the old cable types where it did make a big diff all thru the throttle range peeps. Both my dealer and Carl's confirmed this and they both recommend adding oil in the gas tank to help offset the lower oil/fuel ratio that the Pro's are running. My sled was loading up at idle before but ran great above 5,500 rpm - now I know why. PUT IT BACK TO STOCK and now it riiiiips! So... don't touch the pump adjustment, just add oil to the fuel tank (add 0.5 oz/gal for stock motors and 1 oz/gal for modded motors/turbos)!

And that's the REST of the STORY!

Have FUN!

G MAN

I have been reading this thread for some time now, and I have changed my mind several times. I think G MAN has something here. PLEASE correct me if I am wrong. :face-icon-small-ton That screw only effects oil consumption at idle. Isn't this the same principle on how the idle set screw on a carburetor works? Once the throttle cable starts moving, the setting (position) of the screw means nothing until the cable is released back to it's starting point.(Idle position)
 
What is the factory set them at?

My 12 was set at 89:1 from the factory and my 11 was 78:1. I have corrected several others for customers and they are all over the boards. However they are all consistently lean on oil (in my opinion).

The last thing I want to do is to try to out think the Polaris engineers. However I really feel it's the government that is the problem with the oil ratio. It's like the million cars a day that go through Yellowstone is OK but few snowmobiles will destroy the entire eco system. :face-icon-small-con
 
I have been reading this thread for some time now, and I have changed my mind several times. I think G MAN has something here. PLEASE correct me if I am wrong. :face-icon-small-ton That screw only effects oil consumption at idle. Isn't this the same principle on how the idle set screw on a carburetor works? Once the throttle cable starts moving, the setting (position) of the screw means nothing until the cable is released back to it's starting point.(Idle position)

No, a idle adjustment screw is an adjustable throttle "STOP" for when its in a relaxed position(no throttle engaged). The oil adjustment is a adjustable link to the throttle body actuator arm to the oil pump. So when the adjustment screw is threaded in more, it pushes the oil pump arm "OPEN" more than the proportionate throttle body input. Basically adjusts the oil pump more throughout the whole range of inputted throttle. Hope that makes sense. Refer to the pics in the beginning.
 
No, a idle adjustment screw is an adjustable throttle "STOP" for when its in a relaxed position(no throttle engaged). The oil adjustment is a adjustable link to the throttle body actuator arm to the oil pump. So when the adjustment screw is threaded in more, it pushes the oil pump arm "OPEN" more than the proportionate throttle body input. Basically adjusts the oil pump more throughout the whole range of inputted throttle. Hope that makes sense. Refer to the pics in the beginning.
Yes it does make sense. Thanks. I didn't want to start taking off parts and get into this finding out I was wasting my time. I know once I get a good look in there it will make more sense. :face-icon-small-con It's scary how little oil mine uses.
 
One other thing to keep in mind, your throttle cable will stretch a little from new. If you adjust when new, you'll need to check your adjustment again.

For those that haven't seen the alignment marks on the pump, I took pics of mine while the engine was out - NOTE this is a pic of an '09 700 CFI-4. The marks on the Pros may be different, but the same principle applies.

100_0265.jpg



FWIW, I asked several knowledgeable people and businesses about the A/F ratio and pre-mixing with FI sleds. I got the same answer - adding some oil, 1oz per gal for example, will not lean out the A/F mixture.
 
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The whole increasing oil pump output at relaxed (no throttle engaged) makes sense, however, I'm not seeing where that would actually allow the arm to go more open at different throttle engagements.

Maybe it's because the arm is allowing the pump to put out that much more from the start (idle), that the machine see's that through the entire band (idle to wide open). I don't know.

I'm torn on this one for some reason. Like somebody said on here before, I guess I'd have to actually see how the pump works to know.
 
One other thing to keep in mind, your throttle cable will stretch a little from new. If you adjust when new, you'll need to check your adjustment again.

For those that haven't seen the alignment marks on the pump, I took pics of mine while the engine was out - NOTE this is a pic of an '09 700 CFI-4. The marks on the Pros may be different, but the same principle applies.

100_0265.jpg



FWIW, I asked several knowledgeable people and businesses about the A/F ratio and pre-mixing with FI sleds. I got the same answer - adding some oil, 1oz per gal for example, will not lean out the A/F mixture.

Yes, the throttle cable will stretch from new, but realize the pro has a mechanical linkage to the oil pump from the throttle body vs two separate cables, one going to the tbs and one going to the oil pump like the cfi4 and older motors. Polaris did this to allow for a consistent oiling. But you still need to adjust the cable to allow the throttle to open 100%, it will stay consistent to the throttle body due the linkage not stretching.
 
Yes, the throttle cable will stretch from new, but realize the pro has a mechanical linkage to the oil pump from the throttle body vs two separate cables, one going to the tbs and one going to the oil pump like the cfi4 and older motors. Polaris did this to allow for a consistent oiling. But you still need to adjust the cable to allow the throttle to open 100%, it will stay consistent to the throttle body due the linkage not stretching.

Forgot about the linkage - should have done that on the CFI4 engines
 
Just in case this wasn,t brought up before.
Keep in mind the pump is progressive. If your linkage or cable breaks it goes into full flow mode on the pump. Now this can be good or bad. On a carb sled this will lean out the mixture and drive EGT very high. On a EFI it should get picked up and compensated for by the sensors. When the pump is set to the factory mark which can be a line or a V the pump is flowing minimum oil. As the pump opens and the RPM increases so does the flow. If you set below the mark you are reducing the overall flow of oil. If you set after the mark you are increasing the oil flow.

Look at the marks where they are sitting before you make any changes. Slowly move the throttle and watch the direction the oil pump arm moves. Use the mark on the pump as a guide. It doesn't take a lot of movement to make big changes. Always watch you oil burn rate very close if you are making changes. I mark my oil bottles in 6oz marks so I can quickly see how much oil I am burning in relationship to fuel used. Better safe than sorry.
 
More oil will usually give you more power. Better ring seal. Has anyone taken one of these oil pumps apart to see how they really work? I would really like to see 32-1 if not more. I only used one gallon of oil last year in 500 miles of riding my 12. That is really lean. As another poster said, this sled uses more gas and less oil than the competition and I saw that first hand. Also, my Pro smokes like a chimney on start up which is counter to the lean oil settings. Worst of all worlds, lol. Poo is lucky their chassis rocks because their engine doesn't.
 
pump setting

just picked up my 13 pro, and turned the set screw in about 3 turns, no snow to test yet but I agree better safe than sorry. It does smoke a bit more for sure though
 
not sure if someone asked this, but, will doing this void warrenty if something fails?????

I asked the head engineer at Polaris at the Salt lake sled show about turning up the oiler and he said that was a good idea. Says a lot coming from him.
 
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