Oil Leak/Seaping from Oil Resiviour

[rotax]

Oil Leak/Seaping from Oil Resiviour (Nytro)

EDIT: I pulled the can, found the crack...and slopped JB Weld all the way around. Will see how this works.
CRACK

JB WELD

I found a slow oil leak/seap from the oil resiviour, underneath where the large hose connects to an elbow. After very close inspection its coming from between the 'can' and the elbow. See pic. The arrow doesn't point to the exact spot, its actually above it, where that piece connects to the can itself.

Anyone have experience with this? A fix? I double checked bolts, loosened and re-tightened. Wondering if I just need to replace this seal?? Assuming theres a seal.
Is it just a matter of draining the oil? Pull the bolts, replace seal/gasket, and replace?

This is NOT a breather oil leak.. I have looked it over very close, and felt and found the leaking seal.


NOTE: Looking at the pic notice the alum block that the elbow connects to, its leaking from the TOP of this block. Looked at a buddies Nytro and his is, and has been completely dry in this location.

 

[robertyoke]

are you sure its that connection? mine is leaking from where that bung attaches to the tank (just above your arrow) I think it has cracked from vibration.

 

[rotax]

NOTE: Looking at the pic notice the alum block that the elbow connects to, its leaking from the TOP of this block. Looked at a buddies Nytro and his is, and has been completely dry in this location.

The arrow is wrong.. and it is above it.

I could not see cracks on the front side...but doesn't mean its possible.


I've wrapped a paper towel around it, least stop making a huge mess..i hope..

are you sure its that connection? mine is leaking from where that bung attaches to the tank (just above your arrow) I think it has cracked from vibration.

 

[BigFish BC]

this has happened to a few guys this year.

 

[Nikolai]

Mine cracked where the aluminum block part is connected the tank(above your arrow). I drained the oil, put silicon around it and rode for a few hundred miles until it actually tore away from the oil tank. Instead of dealing with another ****y stock part I brazed the block back on, and put three coats of JB Weld around it. There is no way it will ever leak again. I could have gotten a new tank under warranty but I didn't want to have to deal with this same BS again.

 

[modsledr]

Same as Nikolai, mine cracked on the backside of the block/tank connection...couldn't see it until removing the tank...took it to a professional welder and got it welded back up for $50...plus he beefed up the block/tank connection.

These tanks are VERY thin, I would get it fixed before it cracks worse, or breaks off in the middle of a ride.

modsledr

 

[rotax]

Thanks guys, I'll look up a welder...rather do it right as well.

 

[dcturbo]

My tank was the same way.. My dealer just got me a new one under warranty. We will see if it happens again??

 

[bullfrog123]

Not to hijack this but,
I have 2 2007 Phazers doing the same dam thing. Hard to locate since the leak is slow, but shows in my shop.
Anyone else having this issue with the Phazers?

 

[rotax]

EDIT: I pulled the can, found the crack...and slopped JB Weld all the way around. Will see how this works.
CRACK

JB WELD

 

[modsledr]

I hope that holds for you, but IMO I wouldn't risk getting stranded in the back country to some JB Weld. Already heard of a couple that broke all the way off...mine was way worse than yours by the time I saw it (I thought the oil was from the breather after being upside down a few times).

If it breaks all the way off, your day is done...and if it happens will making a long pull, you could have some serious damage by the time you notice the little oil warning light.

JB Weld is a surface adhesive...good luck!!

 

[Nikolai]

What modsledr said which is I why I had mine brazed before I JB'd it. The guy welding told me it was too thin to weld so he brazed it. We then built up 3 coats of JB weld after letting each one fully cure. If you run it the way it is, carry some waterweld with you so you can make a repair in the field if needed. JB weld is amazing stuff if you prep right, but if you skimp on the prep... then...

 

[mmaxcarver]

Good catch DJ, I'll have to check mine. Looks like a pretty hefty duty mounting flange comparing to their overall construction
Glad you're on team yammie nowa days, you'll keep'em honest.....

 

[rotax]

yeah, the can is super light weight.. they could have thought this one through a bit better.. specially for a "race chassiss" sled.. i'd assume it would take more damage on the track than it does for us mtn riders!?!

so nikoli, did you do a coat, sand it, clean it, do another coat? i've never used jb weld before other than on seating a pilot jet which obviously didn't take much to get the job done there.

Good catch DJ, I'll have to check mine. Looks like a pretty hefty duty mounting flange comparing to their overall construction
Glad you're on team yammie nowa days, you'll keep'em honest.....

 

[Nikolai]

Sand the tank and block(60 grit), clean with acetone, then JB, repeat 2 more times. I then sanded it all smooth so I could paint it and it would look factory, lol. If you don't get all the oils off and don't give the JB weld a rough surface to adhere to you will have problems down the road.

 

[MotoPsycho]

This problem is now being covered by warranty - as long as your dealer isn't an azzhat

 

[Nikolai]

Unless they have an improved one available, I would stick with beefing up your current one.

 

[Butta]

This problem is now being covered by warranty - as long as your dealer isn't an azzhat

Should always have been covered by warranty...did they do a recall with an improved part?

 

[MotoPsycho]

Nope. No recall, and same ol' part, but I'd rather reinforce a brandy newbie one, than screw with the ol' one that came off!

 

[redbull660]

mine cracked in the same spot as in the picture, I am sure yamaha wont stand behind it. I used jb weld on mine.