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Oil Injection Delete? Which way?

I am deleting oil injection on my turbo firecat, and i am wanting to do it properly. I am going to buy the BDX kit, but i was looking at other threads where people drill their cases. I am wanting to get mine the most secure and reliable.

Shocktech2571.jpg


this is one picture i found.

I've also read people are drilling and putting a grease zerk in the BDX kit.
 
IF you're pulling the cases, by all means drill it... no harm in that, but if you're not, there are MANY of us on boost with the BDX setup that have either a zerk, a line with a zerk on the end, or simply greased at install, then bolt put back in.

If you want the security & warm fuzzies of re-greasing, I like the line to the throttle bodies with a zerk on the end so it's easy to re-grease, but I've seen many motors now with big miles without adding more.

I re-grease once a season myself... it makes me feel good about myself :D
 
I just oiled mine and bolted on the delete without a zerk. I only have about 300 miles on so far- but no issues at this point.
 
I just oiled mine and bolted on the delete without a zerk. I only have about 300 miles on so far- but no issues at this point.

I would highly recommend not just adding the amount of oil they suggest. Some of these motors are MUCH tighter than others, and you don't want, IMO, to trust lubrication of the center section to 1 oz of oil.

This will be fine for most motors obviously, but if you happen to be the 1/100 who has a super tight one... it's not worth the risk. Grease will stay in place & do the job long term, an ounce of oil is way low imo if there's no transfer.
 
I did the case mod when I did my delete and the engine was still in the sled. I have about 3,500 miles on it now and no issues. I am in the process of building a 925 and have also added this oil delete and mod to it. As BCL stated many people have been running the BDX with no mods, some like the grease idea...peace of mind is important and it doesn't hurt.
 
When it's all said and done which is better? Drilled case, or grease nipple?

Since both work fine for very long term... I don't think there's a better... just preference.

I have the zerk on there, but my next one I'd use a zerk to grease it, then put the bolt back in, just so there's ZERO chance of the zerk leaking.

I heard of one guy who put oil in, then put a zerk in, and it leaked a few drops... I'm all for eliminating ANY chance of issues.


For my once a year grease on mine, taking out the bolt, putting in the zerk to grease it would be no big deal.
 
I have the zerk, but I would say the drilled case is better. Guaranteed to get oil and no maintenance. I went for the easier install.
 
is there any pictures of this drill the case, and as far as the zerk goes what kind of grease are you using and where is it going? I would like to see a picture of this done, considering taking my injection off.
 
is there any pictures of this drill the case, and as far as the zerk goes what kind of grease are you using and where is it going? I would like to see a picture of this done, considering taking my injection off.

The first picture in this thread is a picture of the case drilled. The bolt on the right is how it comes from the factory. The bolt on the left is where the case is drilled. You unhook the line from the pump that goes to the case and screw it into the where you drilled out the crank. OR The bolt on the right, you remove and replace with a zerk and add greese there. OR Just follow the BDX instructions as that is how they are doing the Prolites they are selling. The first two options are just to make sure options.
 
Well, i just drilled my case and got it over with, now i don't have to worry about greasing it ever again. Peace of mind.

Good choice. Drilled case is the way to do it if you have your cases apart anyway. Like BCIL said there are a lot of sleds running around with the zerk or an oil line and they main reason to do either of them is because a guys doesn't want to split the cases.

You did good.
 
Can you drill the cases without have the cases apart? I can't imagine all the Twisted Turbo sleds had their cases apart and I know they use the oil line solution.
 
Can you drill the cases without have the cases apart? I can't imagine all the Twisted Turbo sleds had their cases apart and I know they use the oil line solution.

You can do it that way, which is different than what Eric is talking about. That's drilling the case from the inside of the case to the center section, and twisted drills & taps the bottom of the case, runs a line with a check valve, and goes into the stock banjo spot, which does essentially the same thing, but you're relying on a check valve to not fail, and you've also got a minor risk of the line popping (minor) compared to the internal solution.

IMO, yes, the drilled case (internal) is the best option, but by a very small margin. I've never heard of a single failure with someone who greased, and really see no reason to risk drilling into my cases from the outside, possibly getting chunks of aluminum in the motor, to do a solution that's no better than grease imo. If you have the cases apart for some reason, by all means, drill baby drill :face-icon-small-hap but if not, just toss some grease in & go RIDE.
 
I had the bottom end apart, drilled 2 holes to feed oil from the mag side cylinder, and added the line on the bottom. The sled has 3 full seasons of hard trail riding (around 3300 miles I'd guess), running 3 oz of apv per gal of gas.

The center section of these engines isn't really sealed, when you shut it down the oil runs through the labyrinth seals and ends up under the pistons.
 
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