Nytro Roll Over Oil Spills!???

[SylvanLaker]

What do you guys do to fix the oil spill issue on roll overs with the Nytro. I ride hard and roll mine all the time. I was thinking of a check valve type setup or rigging a tip sensor to shut a valve.. ANybody already got a fix??

 

[woodies]

use a plastic bottle with vent holes seems to be the answer, or get a mcx turbo it has a little chamber to catch oil.
remember that motor has to breathe or you'll blow seals.

 

[Calvin42]

What do you guys do to fix the oil spill issue on roll overs with the Nytro. I ride hard and roll mine all the time. I was thinking of a check valve type setup or rigging a tip sensor to shut a valve.. ANybody already got a fix??

Look on Totally Yamaha under the nytro mountain heading. There was a couple of guys on there that came up with some good fixes.

 

[Tuesday]

use a plastic bottle with vent holes seems to be the answer, or get a mcx turbo it has a little chamber to catch oil.
remember that motor has to breathe or you'll blow seals.

mcx reservoir will catch the extra oil but if the sled stays running for a bit it still pukes out oil even with the extra long breath hose I put on. I need to get a tether set up so when it tips over it wont keep pumping the oil. I think the long breath hose and tether should minimize oil spills.

Nothing sucks more then puking oil all over the clutches/belt and spending 30 min trying to wipe it down.

Tues.

 

[skidooboy]

put a filter on the end of it. takes awhile for the engine to saturate it. when it does, take it off, clean it with detergent, dry it, and reinstall it. they are on their lids for so little time, when you flip it back up, the oil runs back to the cyl head or resivior depending on the location and angle. i run this set up on both our nytros, no oil loss sice doing it. ski

 

[Tuesday]

What kind of filter? And what kit are you talking about?

 

[Swelly]

put a filter on the end of it. takes awhile for the engine to saturate it. when it does, take it off, clean it with detergent, dry it, and reinstall it. they are on their lids for so little time, when you flip it back up, the oil runs back to the cyl head or resivior depending on the location and angle. i run this set up on both our nytros, no oil loss sice doing it. ski

What brand, part number and where are you purchasing them.

Thanks.

 

[Nikolai]

Ditto, give it up ski

 

[woodies]

put a filter on the end of it. takes awhile for the engine to saturate it. when it does, take it off, clean it with detergent, dry it, and reinstall it. they are on their lids for so little time, when you flip it back up, the oil runs back to the cyl head or resivior depending on the location and angle. i run this set up on both our nytros, no oil loss sice doing it. ski

my sled had a filter on it and i'll send it to the first person that wants the POS. it gets moist and then freezes up in cold weather and then you blow oil out the turbo seals.pm me your address and you can have it. get a good tether and wear it from start to finish. you don't need a blown up motor either.

its a k&n filter if your going that route i don't see a part number on it.

 

[zebiraross]

my sled had a filter on it and i'll send it to the first person that wants the POS. it gets moist and then freezes up in cold weather and then you blow oil out the tubo seals.pm me your address and you can have it. get a good tether and wear it from start to finish. you don't need a blown up motor either.

its a k&n filter if your going that route i don't see a part number on it.

Ditto. Filters get ice on them and crank case can't breath then you have oil spitting out both sides of your turbo.

 

[Tuesday]

Look on Totally Yamaha under the nytro mountain heading. There was a couple of guys on there that came up with some good fixes.

I was snooping around on TY and didnt come up with any threads regarding oil fix for nytros? Then again I dont find that search engine on TY very effective most times at best.

Any links?

 

[skidooboy]

my crank vent filter came with my k&n air pod kit from ulmer. i asked him to send a second crank vent filter to install on the wife's sled. search engine on ty is your friend.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=65193&highlight=breather

as far as the filters getting over oiled and saturate then freezing, might be a problem with a boosted sled but, for non turbo applications, two sleds, down to -30f, no freezing, no oil blow by, no saturated filters. not saying it cant happen but, i havent seen it happen in my travels, and no messy oil leaks from a rollover, side hilling, ect... since the install.

the filter will connect to the oil resi hose, and the small vent hose from the valve cover. no more open ended hoses to just drain oil everywhere (read: hose in air box, then drains into chassis). the two hoses are different sizes, get a brass 90 and install it on the small side (valve cover hose), the larger side (oil resi hose) goes right on the vent hose to the oil resi. dont have the sleds here or i would take a pic.

the filter from ulmer was about 30-35 bux you might be able to fab your own with a k&n, uni, twin air, ect... crank beather, and some ingenuity for alittle less. but again you are not just buying the part but the service, and tech to develope a fix. ski

 

[MTN_VIPER]

I have a fix for the oil drain problem. Its an electric shut-off solinoid valve system that is controlled by a special dual curcuit tether switch. Pull the tether (leave the key on) and it shuts off the motor and closes the valve at the same time automaticlly. Plug the tether back in, the valve opens, fire er up and away you go.
The valve is mounted "inline" in the OEM breather hose. So on stock sleds it still vents into the air box.
Comes in handy when I'm stuck, sometimes its a lot easier to roll the sled on its side and drag her around. With a roll-over valve, I can do that, just like I would if it was a 2 stroker! I also use it when I want to tip the sled on its side to work on it.
Because of the parts required to build a kit, it does cost me more to build a system. More so then some of the other guys set-ups. However there are no bottles to drain or filters to clean. Just install it and ride!
Eventually I hope to start making kits to sell. I'm pretty much in the testing stage right now. I do have I few out there on the snow now, both stock and boosted, with good results!

 

[spray25]

I have Mtn_Viper's setup and damn is it nice. Works great and has saved my butt a number of times. Extremely good quality and works as advertised!! Everyone that I have road with and that has seen it wants one.

 

[BBNytro]

I have a fix for the oil drain problem. Its an electric shut-off solinoid valve system that is controlled by a special dual curcuit tether switch. Pull the tether (leave the key on) and it shuts off the motor and closes the valve at the same time automaticlly. Plug the tether back in, the valve opens, fire er up and away you go.
The valve is mounted "inline" in the OEM breather hose. So on stock sleds it still vents into the air box.
Comes in handy when I'm stuck, sometimes its a lot easier to roll the sled on its side and drag her around. With a roll-over valve, I can do that, just like I would if it was a 2 stroker! I also use it when I want to tip the sled on its side to work on it.
Because of the parts required to build a kit, it does cost me more to build a system. More so then some of the other guys set-ups. However there are no bottles to drain or filters to clean. Just install it and ride!
Eventually I hope to start making kits to sell. I'm pretty much in the testing stage right now. I do have I few out there on the snow now, both stock and boosted, with good results!

You have any pics or a rough material list and instructions?? You are using this with an MCX?

 

[MTN_VIPER]

BBNytro pm'd ya

 

[seano700]

MTN_Viper

MTN_Viper sent you a PM.

 

[yammi4ever]

hey mtn viper, i would like to see this setup also.

thanks,

kirk

 

[827revdog]

me too

 

[MTN_VIPER]

I use a fuel/oil resistant normally open solinoid valve. When ever there is no power being supplied to the valve, it is open and venting.
A sealed wiring connector is used at the valve, to keep melting snow/water out of the connection. This greatly reduces the chances of corrosion. Shrink/seal connectors and a weather resistant fuse holder also used in the main harness. Again to reduce the chance of corrosion.
There is also a flashing red LED, to let the rider know when ever the valve is powered up and closed.
installation is really easy, it splices into the power wire to the handle bar kill switch. The factory handle bar kill switch still functions normally. The only other connections to make, are a system ground and the two wires to the LED.
Due to the design of the tether switch and the way I have made the wiring harness, either the engine will run and the valve will be off/open. Or engine off (key on) valve closed/sealed, not both the engine running and valve closed at the same time. As an added saftey feature the LED is there, to act as a warning light.
yammi4ever, 827revdog, PMs sent.