Just bought 08 d8, it has the 2010 cyl pistions, crank and map. What do I need to do to this thing ? Going to put on a slp single and gear down. Need help with the clutching, wats carls using? I have figured out some lingo like pcv. need help with others. This is my backup sled new to me. I ride a turbo 975 with all the goodies. Just want to have caution on the cfi 800.
Newbie to the d8 world have ???
- Thread starter machineman
- Start date
S
Snoweasel
Active member
Do a search on this forum as thee are alot of good tips and advice here.
Thefullmonte and Mountainhorse are excellent resources.
For what it's worth, here are my suggestions (just my humble opinion):
SUGGESTED PERFORMANCE MODS FOR A 08 D8
19/42 or 2.21 ratio gears (from 20/41 or 2.05 ratio original).
Secondary clutch delrin washers.
Secondary clutch LW Team helix 66-44ER-.46 .
Primary clutch SLP green/pink (160/340) primary spring.
SLP Y-Pipe, Single Pipe, and Silencer (can).
SLP LHS shock tower vent.
SLP high flow air horn intake, dash snow screens, one or two 2 ½” flowrites,.
Iridium NGK (BPR9EIX) spark plugs.
Fox Float 2 front shocks.
Skinz or Cobe front bumper.
Better Boards by F-Bomb Racing.
SLP MTX 68g primary clutch weights with 1g rivet in belly (for 6000’ to 8000’).
Power Commander PCV fuel controller with DTR or SLP map.
Ultra short windshield (does not break during intentional rollovers).
Front skid track shock moved to front and lower mount, limiter strap in middle hole).
Tunnel mount 2.5 gallon spare fuel tank and holder.
Tunnel mount storage bag and under seat storage bag.
Muff pot (Kubassa cooker).
SUGGESTED TO DO’s for IMPROVED ENGINE DURABILITY (MY 2008 to 2010)
Do not under weight the primary clutch, when in doubt run heavier weights than needed for altitude. At high elevation (2000’-8000’) use 62g. At low elevation (0-2000’) use 68g.
Avoid oxygenated (ethanol) gas or gas with less than 91 octane. Higher octane = less DETO.
Do not run at mid throttle (5500 to 6750 RPM) for longer than a few seconds at a time, vary throttle. This RPM range is the critically lean spot on these engines. Lean=heat=burn down.
Upon first start or restart, run engine to 120 Deg. F. minimum before starting off.
Do not run engine with coolant temperatures above 150 deg.F. Lower Temp = less DETO. May run higher temps (to 160 deg. F.) if running Redneck Racing’s Polaris Enhancement Kit (coolant bypass).
Run 2/3 of a 15 oz bottle (10 oz or 1/3 litre) of Lucas 3X Octane Boost with every full tank of gas. Higher octane = less DETO. Don’t get carried away, higher octane does not increase power, it slows the burn down and thus helps avoid DETO. This additive also includes lubricants that aid upper cylinder lubrication.
Run small amount (16 oz or ½ litre) of injection oil in every full tank of gas for additional lubrication and protection.
Run NGK Iridium plugs (BPR9EIX) and gap 0.023“-0.027“. More precious spark (less DETO) and reduced
fouling. Reduced gap will help avoid intermittent WOT bog (less resistance).
On trails and low snow conditions, always run scratchers down to keep engine temps down.
Run a fuel controller (PC III or PCV) with richened up midrange, high RPM’s can run trimmed values.
Consider running accelerator pump option with fuel controller (such as with SLP maps).
When in doubt or when engine DETO’s, unplug ethanol wires (for 5% richer A/F ratio).
Run conservatively at low elevations. Low elevation = lean A/F ratio
All this sounds excessive but it should allow you to run reliably for a longer period of time and help avoid getting towed out.
Again, just my humble opinion here....
Best of luck
Thefullmonte and Mountainhorse are excellent resources.
For what it's worth, here are my suggestions (just my humble opinion):
SUGGESTED PERFORMANCE MODS FOR A 08 D8
19/42 or 2.21 ratio gears (from 20/41 or 2.05 ratio original).
Secondary clutch delrin washers.
Secondary clutch LW Team helix 66-44ER-.46 .
Primary clutch SLP green/pink (160/340) primary spring.
SLP Y-Pipe, Single Pipe, and Silencer (can).
SLP LHS shock tower vent.
SLP high flow air horn intake, dash snow screens, one or two 2 ½” flowrites,.
Iridium NGK (BPR9EIX) spark plugs.
Fox Float 2 front shocks.
Skinz or Cobe front bumper.
Better Boards by F-Bomb Racing.
SLP MTX 68g primary clutch weights with 1g rivet in belly (for 6000’ to 8000’).
Power Commander PCV fuel controller with DTR or SLP map.
Ultra short windshield (does not break during intentional rollovers).
Front skid track shock moved to front and lower mount, limiter strap in middle hole).
Tunnel mount 2.5 gallon spare fuel tank and holder.
Tunnel mount storage bag and under seat storage bag.
Muff pot (Kubassa cooker).
SUGGESTED TO DO’s for IMPROVED ENGINE DURABILITY (MY 2008 to 2010)
Do not under weight the primary clutch, when in doubt run heavier weights than needed for altitude. At high elevation (2000’-8000’) use 62g. At low elevation (0-2000’) use 68g.
Avoid oxygenated (ethanol) gas or gas with less than 91 octane. Higher octane = less DETO.
Do not run at mid throttle (5500 to 6750 RPM) for longer than a few seconds at a time, vary throttle. This RPM range is the critically lean spot on these engines. Lean=heat=burn down.
Upon first start or restart, run engine to 120 Deg. F. minimum before starting off.
Do not run engine with coolant temperatures above 150 deg.F. Lower Temp = less DETO. May run higher temps (to 160 deg. F.) if running Redneck Racing’s Polaris Enhancement Kit (coolant bypass).
Run 2/3 of a 15 oz bottle (10 oz or 1/3 litre) of Lucas 3X Octane Boost with every full tank of gas. Higher octane = less DETO. Don’t get carried away, higher octane does not increase power, it slows the burn down and thus helps avoid DETO. This additive also includes lubricants that aid upper cylinder lubrication.
Run small amount (16 oz or ½ litre) of injection oil in every full tank of gas for additional lubrication and protection.
Run NGK Iridium plugs (BPR9EIX) and gap 0.023“-0.027“. More precious spark (less DETO) and reduced
fouling. Reduced gap will help avoid intermittent WOT bog (less resistance).
On trails and low snow conditions, always run scratchers down to keep engine temps down.
Run a fuel controller (PC III or PCV) with richened up midrange, high RPM’s can run trimmed values.
Consider running accelerator pump option with fuel controller (such as with SLP maps).
When in doubt or when engine DETO’s, unplug ethanol wires (for 5% richer A/F ratio).
Run conservatively at low elevations. Low elevation = lean A/F ratio
All this sounds excessive but it should allow you to run reliably for a longer period of time and help avoid getting towed out.
Again, just my humble opinion here....
Best of luck
Thanks for the info, why pcv, and not a bd box or a doebek base fuel controller? Is it because the programming is done? Why not run the ethanol setting all the time there is alot more of that fuel than the other.
S
Snoweasel
Active member
Only reason I suggest a Power Commander is that they are one of the more popular ones and thus there are alot of good maps available. That said, BD boxes are also common so you should be able to find some wel tested maps with the BD box as well. Any other fuel controller will work as long as your familair with it. The PC software and maps are relatively easy to tune and understand for me. As for running in the ethonal mode (5% richer) that simply isn't rich enough in the mid range RPM's. If you look at the maps made with a closed loop programmer (O2 sensor) controllers are adding as much as 20 to 30% more fuel in the mid range RPM's. So 5% isn't enough but it certainly will help.
If your running good quality gas with ethonal wires unplugged, it will ceratinly help.
For what it's worth, I have had a problem D8....I'm on pistons 9 and 10 and these are the things that have seamed to work for me.
Alot of people have had no problems with there D8's and hopefully you have one of the better ones.
Best advise I can give is to pull your exhaust valves frequently and inspect for piston scoring. If you don'y see scoring after 200 or so miles.....you likely have a good D8 and whatever your doing is probably working. If you do have scoring, the recommendations I made should help....at least they have helped with me. I ride in Western Canada, 4000 to 8000 feet.
Best of luck
If your running good quality gas with ethonal wires unplugged, it will ceratinly help.
For what it's worth, I have had a problem D8....I'm on pistons 9 and 10 and these are the things that have seamed to work for me.
Alot of people have had no problems with there D8's and hopefully you have one of the better ones.
Best advise I can give is to pull your exhaust valves frequently and inspect for piston scoring. If you don'y see scoring after 200 or so miles.....you likely have a good D8 and whatever your doing is probably working. If you do have scoring, the recommendations I made should help....at least they have helped with me. I ride in Western Canada, 4000 to 8000 feet.
Best of luck
