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New Yeti Suggestions

wwillf01

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Lifetime Membership
Picking up an 18 ....... So far I am going to pull every bolt and piece and red loctite them in along with checking them regularly. Any other suggestions on prep?
 
Isn't red Loctite a little too strong for that...blue?

Agreed .. but I keep reading where they keep coming out... I know I ended up using red loctite on the 15 timbersled with the cr500 but the bolts we're not titanium.
 
They are a good unit! I have a 2018 129 SS I ran last season. No broken parts, no lost bolts. Very little belt stretch or bolts that needed re torqued.


After each ride - Check the belt tension. Check torque on all bolts including ski/spindle. Dry, lube and check drive chain. Inspect the complete unit including ski and spindle assy. Check the track tension.



Very happy with it! I have a 2019 129 SS on the way. Just not sure I want to let the 18 go. Hope the 19 is as dependable! Had good success with two ARO 120s also. (My daughters ride them).

IMG_2293.JPG
 
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18 129ss......

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No need to get crazy with the Red Locktite. Blue is factory spec. Even with Red the 8 suspension arm bolts will still work their way loose. Just get in a habit of torquing the 12 bolts in the suspension every other ride and you will be fine.

Make sure TSB's have been preformed. Jack Shaft bearing shaft alignment (129SS only), and the brake caliper bolt torq and re-Locktite.
 
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No need to get crazy with the Red Locktite. Blue is factory spec. Even with Red the 8 suspension arm bolts will still work their way loose. Just get in a habit of torquing the 12 bolts in the suspension every other ride and you will be fine.

Make sure TSB's have been preformed. Jack Shaft bearing shaft alignment (129SS only), and the brake caliper bolt torq and re-Locktite.

One of the issues is Yeti installed too short of suspension bolts. They are working on an upgrade kit with longer reach and possibly 10.9 grade bolts.Yeti is very good about addressing areas that need attention and offering a fix.
 
One of the issues is Yeti installed too short of suspension bolts. They are working on an upgrade kit with longer reach and possibly 10.9 grade bolts.Yeti is very good about addressing areas that need attention and offering a fix.


Does anyone know what the name of the bolt is? The ones on my kit are so short they don't even make it to the nylon of the lock nut..... I was just going to order some now and fix it...... but it is a strange bolt.
 
Does anyone know what the name of the bolt is? The ones on my kit are so short they don't even make it to the nylon of the lock nut..... I was just going to order some now and fix it...... but it is a strange bolt.


So this is what the expanded view says BOLT, M8-1.25 X 40mm, REACTOR ARM, Ti



What length has worked for people
 
I'm sure you know all this already but, M8 is the OD size 1.25 is the pitch and 40mm is the length. For those who aren't familiar with metric, 40 mm is about 1 1/2". If the bolt is just biting the nylock then an M8 1.25 50mm should go thru that's an additional 3/8". You may want to buy a longer bolt such as a 80mm or so then cut it in order to make sure that the pivot portion isn't threaded where it contacts the arm. A grade 8 is plenty strong enough it just wont be Ti if you care. Maybe I'm not clear on how it looks if so ignore this.


M5
 
So I assume grade 5 titanium is stong enough... Or is it a strength issue along with length?
I'm sure you know all this already but, M8 is the OD size 1.25 is the pitch and 40mm is the length. For those who aren't familiar with metric, 40 mm is about 1 1/2". If the bolt is just biting the nylock then an M8 1.25 50mm should go thru that's an additional 3/8". You may want to buy a longer bolt such as a 80mm or so then cut it in order to make sure that the pivot portion isn't threaded where it contacts the arm. A grade 8 is plenty strong enough it just wont be Ti if you care. Maybe I'm not clear on how it looks if so ignore this.


M5

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So I assume grade 5 titanium is stong enough... Or is it a strength issue along with length?

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I'm not familiar with Ti fasteners because IMO the cost vs weight savings isn't worth the trouble. If the grades are the same as steel ie. 5,8,10 etc then my answer would be no grade 5 wont cut it. People think stainless is super strong but it isn't, its brittle and galls like a MOFO, I'm not sure about Ti. If the bolt doesn't pass through the nut then its length but I do know a few guys who have snapped the Ti bolts so maybe its both.


M5
 
MMMMM something else to think about








I'm not familiar with Ti fasteners because IMO the cost vs weight savings isn't worth the trouble. If the grades are the same as steel ie. 5,8,10 etc then my answer would be no grade 5 wont cut it. People think stainless is super strong but it isn't, its brittle and galls like a MOFO, I'm not sure about Ti. If the bolt doesn't pass through the nut then its length but I do know a few guys who have snapped the Ti bolts so maybe its both.


MMMMM something else to think about


M5
 
tempting to drill heads for wire... that would solve a lot of problems. If you fab a belt cover guard that would do wonders as well. Really the big problem was the belt covers and bolts backing out with the Yetis. That and gusset the suspension arms.
 
No need to get crazy with the Red Locktite. Blue is factory spec. Even with Red the 8 suspension arm bolts will still work their way loose. Just get in a habit of torquing the 12 bolts in the suspension every other ride and you will be fine.

Make sure TSB's have been preformed. Jack Shaft bearing shaft alignment (129SS only), and the brake caliper bolt torq and re-Locktite.

Tobe, The 18 has some upgrades available, One is they used very small drivers and now updated 7 tooth drivers,and extroverts are available, They come standard on the 19,s. Also changing all the bolts to 10.9 and longer reach , The Ti bolts are the wrong length and Yeti is making a bolt update kit available, There also is a rotor and rotor cover kit available for the 18,s. Are you doing any of these upgrades?
 
Its kind of interesting to me that 7 tooth drivers are the number now. TS went with the 6 tooth as well and tucked everything up in the chassis in 15. This made it tough to add a 2.5 track which was short sighted on their part. Artic Cat has dropped and rolled their sleds like we all did back in the day, CMX has a shallow approach angle much like the kitty cat sleds. All the kits can now take a 2.5 or better.

All this is starting to sound a lot like a 13 14 TS kit. Add the new DTS track, Raptor triple rate springs, ski of choice, some shocks and voila. If only there was a belt drive......

M5
 
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