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New to Polaris

sledheadd

Well-known member
Premium Member
Well I went and bought a pro rmk 163"

After a few rides I really like the chassis but its not as nimble as I was expecting.
Now coming off a boosted nytro I was expecting it to be way easier to ride then my nytro.
I'm running the middle ski stance and I find the sled is hard to lean over on marginal snow. Maybe I just need more seat time but for such a light sled I thought I would be way easier to ride.
Also how does one get more ski lift without softening the back spring , looks like there is no adjustment on the limiter strap.
 
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Well first of all, ski lift can be increased by tightening the center shock. Gives the sled more of a pivot point.

Secondly, the stock skis are good for stock but a set of SLP powder pro ski's and the Carl's cut make it super easy to tip over. Always be in the narrowest setting on the spindles too. I ran PP's and the cut for two years on my 11. Saving up for a set for my 13 right now.

Hope this helps.
 
I felt the same way when I first rode my 2012 PRO... After some more seat time you will soon see why so many people like this chassis. Play around with the rear skid settings. Keep in mind it takes a very minor change to get this sled to react different, do small changes at a time and you will find the happy spot! Good luck
 
stiffening the spring on the front track shock makes the sled feel less planted also. like others said, a little bit goes a long way so small incramental changes until you're satisfied.
 
There is a big difference in handling with foot placement also. Moving your feet back will make it easy to roll over.
 
i think the one thing that this chassis thrives on is committment to a move. On my m, i could half *** my way through a move and the chassis would also half *** it's way to make the move. The pro on the other hand, if i committ to a downhill u turn or committ to a sidehill, it's like BAM... it just does it. I would adjust the suspension like others have suggested.. but the biggest thing that helped me, was not trying to figure out how the sled would react.. i just committed to the move and not think about if the sled will do what you want.. because it will. I dont know that made much sense... but i tried :)
 
This really is discussion and I'm not bashing.

I don't understand how you think bringing a Pro over is harder than a Nytro. I agree with others in that foot placement is important. As with any sled you have to find the pivot point where balance is easily done on the Pro. I figure you meant a 163" track.
 
I'm running the middle ski stance and I find the sled is hard to lean over on marginal snow. Maybe I just need more seat time but for such a light sled I thought I would be way easier to ride.

Yes, give the little more seat time a shot. Maybe turn in the skis one more notch?:face-icon-small-con
 
I came from a VE 800 to a Pro last season and can totally relate to what you are experiencing. I rode some 2011's and was always very happy to give then back. My VE would lift the front end and your Nitro also has unbelievable weight transfer, the Pro has next to none no matter how you set up the rear shock. I could sit in the seat and get my VE to do whatever I wanted it to do, the Pro is virtually impossible to butt ride. The Pro reminded of riding a 4X8 chunk of plywood across the snow, unless it was on edge it was going to stay flat, quite miserable on hardpack. Before picking up my new Pro (only because my VE was hammered) I had the stock ridiculously overwide apehangers switched to a set of RSI's, lowering and narrowing them by about 2" (much improved ergo's for butt riding). I cranked up the front track shock a bit and softened the front shocks as soft as I could without the keepers falling out when extended. To my surprise these few changes made a very noticeable improvement that better fit my butt riding style. I've since found it responds fantastic to my input if I just get off my azz and stand the thing on edge (still reminds me of a 4X8 on hardpack when I'm lazy). After several rides I found I could do things easier on the Pro better than anything else I'd ever ridden. They climb like they do because they put the power to the snow instead of putting all that energy into lifting the front end. Give it some time, I bet it will grow on you, really fun in the powder.
 
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Foot placement is huge on the Pro.

Step up into the foot wells and the front plants like a rock. It's a pain in the butt to pull over.

Step back to the rear of the running boards (middle of the seat or even further) and it will stand right up in the air and dance for you. You can roll it over and lay it down and stand it back up with just a little flip of the bars.
It takes some time to figure out the balance but once you do you'll love it.
 
I had an oversized windshield and moved my bars back 2". I was amazed at how this changed the ride. The tilt of the bars moves your natural cg to the front or rear of the sled. I moved them back forward, put a lower shield on and had a much better riding sled.
Early season riding in low snow and shock Pre load was also major factor in handling for me. I am a big guy and messed around with all of the shocks before I got what I wanted. The center shock spring preload was the biggest factor for me, this changes the forward-recerse pitch of the sled.
 
Shock revalving and proper spring for heavier riders makes a big difference too. I have the Carl's valving on all four shocks and a fat boy spring on the rear shock. I weigh 235 lbs. The valving and spring make a big difference. My wife has a 12 600 Pro with stock valving and rear spring. My 13 800 163 Pro with the mods works much better (trail or backcountry) for me. My 125 lb. wife even prefers the ride quality of the 800 over her 600. I need to make some adjustments to her 600 to make it work better for her. As they are now set up, the 600 has way too much ski pressure even for me. Once I get it adjusted properly for her, the 600 should work well with the stock shocks given her much lighter weight. You can see how to adjust the shocks in the Owner's Manual. It gives a pretty detailed description of how to set them up.
 
Thank for your input guys. I had a chance to play around with some settings yesterday. I'm also 235 no gear, I tightened the front shock 1 turn at a time and ended up going 4 turns. That helped some to pull it over easier and as a couple if you stated foot placement was my biggest issue. Coming off revs and nytros I was standing about 8 inches to far forward. Liking it more every ride. Just needs about 100 more hp. Lol
 
Bugito no ofence taken. But have you ever rode a nytro with 290 -330 hp that weights under 540lbs ready to ride? It is actually easy to ride.
 
I've got a couple rides now on the 163 pro. I love the low clutch engagement!
These sleds have unreal bottom end throttle response, the mid range is really impressive to.
I too felt it was a little harder to initiate a carve then I thought it would be. The front end feels a bit to planted for me. I havn't messed at all with my suspension.
I hopped on my buds 2012 163 pro and his was alot easier to pull over.
He's got his front springs tightened up a few turns and he also cranked up his rear track shock a few turns as well. Like mine, his front track shock is all the way out,except for just over 1/4" threads showing. I have no idea why this would make it easier to pull over,but i guess I'll have to try a similar adjustment.
If I could get mine to handle like his ill be stoked.
 
not bashing here but these sleds are def NOT meant to be "butt ridden". you need to stand, roll it on it's edge and then play.

Hey everybody has there own riding style. There's no proper way to ride.
Ps: you'd be surprised how well a nitro carves with boost and a few mods.
 
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