New Nytro with turbo engine break in.

[samsquatch47]

As above. Purchased a new 2010 Nytro 162 SE and it is in the process of getting a Powderlites stage 3 kit installed. I am doing the internals as well off the bat. It will have Carrillo rods, gas ported pistons, o-ringed head and head studs. I am running straight 100ll AV gas. What type of break in procedure would you seasoned experts recommend for my sled this season. Want this engine to last for years and years.
Looking foreward to joining the boosted Yami club.
Thanks

 

[Calvin42]

I've got an MCX 240 kit and had the same questions. Nearly every thing I read is ride it like you stold it. That way the rings will seat better. I know what the owners manual said but Yamaha is just looking out for itself. I have an article from an engine builder that says the very same thing. If I can find it I will post it. I have had 0 issues with mine. Put gas in and go. Most reliable sled I have ever owned.

 

[Duke]

I make sure I keep my oil clean, vary your rpm on the trail/ride the first day or two and ALWAYS let the sled idle and cool down before shutting off. Make sure you have adequate cooling system and a properly tuned fuel control box, those are the two most important things to ensure a long life. Your probably not going to be running the sled wide open long enough at any point in the sleds life to hurt anything once it is broke in. Most of the riding on a boosted four stroke is 1/2 throttle with the occasional wide open burst.

I'd probably leave the boost turned down for the first few rides. I am a firm believer in putting a limitation on the boost you run, run the boost you need. Many guys push these sleds way to far and then wonder why they blow up. 17-18 #'s is where I call it quits. Anything more than that is meant for 4 second drag racing on the track.

DL

 

[Turbo11T]

Load the motor

I have read alot about breaking in the motor. I would personally make sure that the motor is thouroughly warmed up and then do varying runs. you want to make sure you load the motor. So I hill with deep snow or on a dyno. Loading(lugging)the motor at varying throttle positions will give you a good motor. It will make a motor with the best power and no oil consumption.

I personally would have it dynoed. Just google it and you will find how alot of guys reccomend breaking a motor in. The rings need pressure to seat and loading the motor will be the only thing that makes this happen. It may be hard to accomplish on a sled with a turbo so I would get a dyno session set up. I am not talking dynoing to find max hp. That would be silly on a new motor. Just do it to load the motor at 1/4 throttle for ten seconds, at 1/3 throttle for ten seconds, and so on I would not do a wide open run though.

 

[samsquatch47]

Thanks guys

Thanks for the tips guys. Anybody else got break-in tips? I seem to be on the right path from what you guys are saying. How long, hours or miles, should a guy wait before he starts riding hard. I know its going to be hard to not release the beast! What boost level should I keep it turned down to for break-in?

 

[Turk]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
My 03 RX-1 had a recent engine rebuild. It was broken in doing 660' runs at 16 pounds boost. Sled runs flawless with zero issues.

 

[samsquatch47]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
My 03 RX-1 had a recent engine rebuild. It was broken in doing 660' runs at 16 pounds boost. Sled runs flawless with zero issues.

Cool article! This is how I have broken in every other motor I have owned. So you broke your motor in on the dragstrip? Sounds like fun!

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

The way I always go by is this saying...

a motor will run like it was broken in..

break it in hard and fast, it wil, run hard and fast.

IMO, just dont sit WOT forever on the thing right away, and keep the boost at like 10-12# to start.. just let it run throught the paces.. my thing is basically the first ride dont sit and try to have it WOT for as long as you can, work in and out of the throttle, let it get some load, but dont just wail on the thing. after say 50 miles or so.. ride it like you stole it.

 

[samsquatch47]

The way I always go by is this saying...

a motor will run like it was broken in..

break it in hard and fast, it wil, run hard and fast.

IMO, just dont sit WOT forever on the thing right away, and keep the boost at like 10-12# to start.. just let it run throught the paces.. my thing is basically the first ride dont sit and try to have it WOT for as long as you can, work in and out of the throttle, let it get some load, but dont just wail on the thing. after say 50 miles or so.. ride it like you stole it.

Sounds like the first ride with it will be a gooder!

 

[paulharris]

The way I always go by is this saying...

a motor will run like it was broken in..

break it in hard and fast, it wil, run hard and fast.

IMO, just dont sit WOT forever on the thing right away, and keep the boost at like 10-12# to start.. just let it run throught the paces.. my thing is basically the first ride dont sit and try to have it WOT for as long as you can, work in and out of the throttle, let it get some load, but dont just wail on the thing. after say 50 miles or so.. ride it like you stole it.

lmao! you are probably spending 25,000 dollars on your sled, turbo, and engine building do you really want to "ride it like you stole it" right away? lol. you dont break a brand new four stroke in hard and fast. lots of heat cycles. very little boost and varied rpm's for at least 100 miles.

 

[samsquatch47]

Curious why you think you need to o-ring the block? Hopefully someone isnt selling you snake oil? I've seen guys run 18-19#'s boost with no trouble. More power than 90% can ride. Curious who is doing the work for you?

The o-ring head, the rods, gas ported pistons and the headstuds are not needed at most boost levels. When I called Dave and the crew at Powderlites I told them I want to do this sled motor once and ride it for years and years. They are doing all the work for me and never tried to push me into something I didn't need. I told them I want to be able to fill it with race fuel and crank the boost and never worry about being limited by engine internals. I am new to turbos, but have played with hotrods for awhile now. Through experience I have learned that cheaping out on machining and good internals costs you way more when you throw more power at a motor. I want to use all the power this sled is cabable of one day that is my goal. I know i will need a different track and skid to do this. That is stuff i am comfortable doing myself later. The only thing I could add later is meth injection to the motor and that and be added in when funds are renewed again. Yes I guess I could do head porting and boost specific cams, but my budget was tapped out enough already. From talking with guys this sled will be capable of more then enough with the modded 2860rs turbo and bigger injectors. I am always open to experienced guys advice though, and you sound like you know what you are doing too. I am new to these yami rockets and I know have many things to learn from you guys. Thats what i love about this site so much! Free advice from guys that have already done what I want to do.

 

[twsandrew]

I have done similar on all mine. Two heat cycles slow warm up and ride to full temp with varying throttle position. During both cycles I want to push the motor but not by any means to full boost (more to make sure everything is hooked up right). Change the oil at 50 miles and then run it hard until it breaks