Need some CNS clutching help

[GSX97]

On a trip to Colorado and having some low end issues with my 24 boost.
Have a cycles and sleds clutch kit in with the weights set by them for 9k+
Have a TRS valve installed as well and a Speedwerx intake tube, otherwise stock.
We are riding 10-12k feet
I had a number of times grabbing throttle and it barely gain any rpm once the belt engaged (roughly 3500-4000) which makes it super doggy at low speeds. Sometimes if i grabbed a handful of throttle it would work through this area. Once it makes it into power it runs amazing.

Looking for help on what to adjust to improve things. I am not great with clutching which is why i bought this recommended kit in the first place.
I did email cns last night. But had not heard back yet, so asking here so o can work on it tonight before riding tomorrow

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

On a trip to Colorado and having some low end issues with my 24 boost.
Have a cycles and sleds clutch kit in with the weights set by them for 9k+
Have a TRS valve installed as well and a Speedwerx intake tube, otherwise stock.
We are riding 10-12k feet
I had a number of times grabbing throttle and it barely gain any rpm once the belt engaged (roughly 3500-4000) which makes it super doggy at low speeds. Sometimes if i grabbed a handful of throttle it would work through this area. Once it makes it into power it runs amazing.

Looking for help on what to adjust to improve things. I am not great with clutching which is why i bought this recommended kit in the first place.
I did email cns last night. But had not heard back yet, so asking here so o can work on it tonight before riding tomorrow

Have you rode it with the speedwerx intake yet?

Are you running their little Y intake that h9oks to the vent they add by removing the rh side louver above the turbo?

If so we've seen that the intake is prone to plugging causing sled to suck hot air and they randomly bog coming into boost..

If you just have a a silicone elbow type intake mod not the additional Y intake. I'd guess you need a little more low / mid loading. These sleds run best right on the edge of this bog they get which is from excessively rapid rev rate. Really common when taking mtn clutching lower but if your loading is just right on the edge it happens on really quick in and out throttle stabs some of the time they fall on their face but if your slower getting into the throttle it moves right theu it.

 

[GSX97]

I rode today at a bit lower elevation and the sled was a lot better. It seems to just not like 11 to 12k like we had been riding.
I think i am just going to put all the stock clutching back in for tomorrow since we will be up well over 12k.

I have the speedwerx y pipe, there was nothing clogged, i have fire n ice intakes as well and nothing had snow on them when checking things over.

 

[GSX97]

Put in stock clutching for today and ran great at 12k feet. May just leave it this way.
I am sure the CNS kit just needed primary weights adjusted, but still haven't gotten a response with where to move magnets on the weights

 

[Jstone18]

Put in stock clutching for today and ran great at 12k feet. May just leave it this way.
I am sure the CNS kit just needed primary weights adjusted, but still haven't gotten a response with where to move magnets on the weights

Having really similar problems with my 24 boost. Did a Burandt clutch kit and TRS power flow valve and have been having tons of bogging issues out of no where at lower rpm. Noticed it quite a few times when the sled was trenched and when from a stop to WOT to get it out. Happening worse on the exhaust side which isn’t surprising but didn’t have these issues at the end of last season when it was stock. Riding 8-10k elevation. Could clutch weights have something to do with this?

 

[GSX97]

I am assuming so. When I went back to stock clutching my issue completely went away. I still have not received a response from CNS.
I just dont know enough about clutching to start moving weights around. I am not sure if the issues is too much or too little weight in the heel, or if I need to move the magnets to another part of the weight, or remove some completely. With how much of a pain it is to change weights on the P22, it wasnt something I felt like playing with on the side of the mountain.

They gave absolutely no information with the weights, nor do they have any setup information. They just had you enter in sled info, riding elevation and sent the weights set up for that.
Hoping they get back to me, as I would love to have this back in as it did great things to my mid range and top end, but the low end made me want to send the sled off a cliff, lol.

 

[goridedoo]

Not directed at the OP, but I always find it comical when a newbie comes asking what mods they need to do before they ride and the masses say clutching. The stock clutching works. Leave it alone

 

[GSX97]

Not directed at the OP, but I always find it comical when a newbie comes asking what mods they need to do before they ride and the masses say clutching. The stock clutching works. Leave it alone

I know, but I have been on enough polaris machines to know the clutching would be terrible.
My biggest fear with buying a boost would be the low end response so I wanted to set it up as well as I could before taking it out.
the CNS kit was 'supposed' to really help the low end response. In my case, it did not, but it greatly helped the mid range and top end power.
Since I have limited amount of time on snow per year, I went over a lot of posts and other recommendations before deciding which to go with. At the time I had been seeing good things being said about the CNS kit and the low end power, decided to go with that one.
I am sure it is just an adjustment needed to the magnets in my case, just not getting any responses from them on what to change is kind of a disappointment.

 

[Ultrasauras]

Post a pic of your weights and magnet setup

 

[GSX97]

Post a pic of your weights and magnet setup

From heel to tip:
2 large magnets, 2 large magnets, 3 large magnets, 1 small magnet

 

[Ultrasauras]

Only way to learn is to try and adjust the weights. I would remove one large magnet from the tip and try that. 2-2-2-1

 

[goridedoo]

I know, but I have been on enough polaris machines to know the clutching would be terrible.
My biggest fear with buying a boost would be the low end response so I wanted to set it up as well as I could before taking it out.
the CNS kit was 'supposed' to really help the low end response. In my case, it did not, but it greatly helped the mid range and top end power.
Since I have limited amount of time on snow per year, I went over a lot of posts and other recommendations before deciding which to go with. At the time I had been seeing good things being said about the CNS kit and the low end power, decided to go with that one.
I am sure it is just an adjustment needed to the magnets in my case, just not getting any responses from them on what to change is kind of a disappointment.

Like I said not directed at you.

I have always thought clutching from Polaris has been decent. Every Polaris I have owned since 2011 has held RPM well, had RELATIVELY cool belt temps and long belt life, and never had clutching related bogs. Don't get me wrong there are some gains to be had... but Polaris has really good one size fits all clutching from the factory IMO.

Doo clutching used to be terrible from the factory, and I 100% would have advocated for that to be changed from the start.

Sorry for the derail.

 

[GSX97]

Only way to learn is to try and adjust the weights. I would remove one large magnet from the tip and try that. 2-2-2-1

The problem I have is that I live at under 1000 ft elevation here at home and the P22 weights are not something I want to pull while on the mountain.
That is why I had reached out to get their best idea on what to adjust so that I could do it while off the mountain for the day, I just hadn't heard back.

At the time, I wasn't sure if I needed more/less weight and where to put it.
Now I have plenty of time again to get an answer as I am back home.

 

[NEWDUCK]

The problem I have is that I live at under 1000 ft elevation here at home and the P22 weights are not something I want to pull while on the mountain.
That is why I had reached out to get their best idea on what to adjust so that I could do it while off the mountain for the day, I just hadn't heard back.

At the time, I wasn't sure if I needed more/less weight and where to put it.
Now I have plenty of time again to get an answer as I am back home.

Give them a call. Im sure they could talk your ear off on what to do for different situations/elevations. Might be better than email.

 

[GSX97]

Give them a call. Im sure they could talk your ear off on what to do for different situations/elevations. Might be better than email.

Now that I am back I may end up doing that.
No service in most areas we were riding and wasn't back to our rental until after hours, figured email would be the best bet at the time.

 

[Ultrasauras]

Pretty easy to pull the weights on the hill on a p22 like I said that's how you learn

 

[ExcursionPSD]

Part of this appears to be old school power loss (with a Non turbo engine) due to higher elevation.

Once a stock tuned Boost, gets above 10,000 feet altitude it IS going to start to lose power, and the clutching will be wrong for the reduced power.

 

[NEWDUCK]

Now that I am back I may end up doing that.
No service in most areas we were riding and wasn't back to our rental until after hours, figured email would be the best bet at the time.

Makes sense. Report back with what you find!

 

[RMK-King]

This might be helpful to you.