Need help with running issue with M1000;video

[Sledbrain2]

Mods full slp exhaust, open intake, PC3, stock head,
Clutching CPC adjustable and stock helix with red spring in sec.

I had black diamond rebuild the secondary over the summer is the only change from last year.

On up hill from idle to wot will jump to 6000 and stay and not pull, has stutter. On flat ground will do it occasionally but not as pronounced, rolling to wot on flat ground jumps to 7500 and pulls. The video kind of explains it better than me.

I am thinking its a clutching issue as the secondary upshifts too fast, is the secondary more efficient and I need a stiffer spring or different helix?

https://youtu.be/S8Se2IWp87A

 

[Sledbrain2]

could belt deflection cause this?

 

[kiliki]

ditch the open intake and put the factory plenum back on.

 

[Sledbrain2]

been like this since day one has never been an issue with intake.

 

[rcr1978]

Define day one? You bought the sled brand new, used/stock, ect?

 

[Sledbrain2]

Need to clarify, the original owner put a full slp exhaust with a p3 controller, removed stock intake and added vents in hood. The intake is a piece of fiber cloth from slp held on with a zip tie over where the snorkel attached. Up until this winter I never had this issue from idle to wot. I had black diamond rebuild the sec replaced both sheave bushing and helix bushing. It seems that the secondary is upshifting too fast, is most noticeable when going up hill from idle to wot then on flat ground from idle to wot.

 

[rcr1978]

If the stock helix/spring are used I don't see how it could upshift to fast unless the spring is broke/worn out. It's kinda hard to tell from the video whats really happening but it almost sounds fuel related listening to it.

 

[Readymedic]

Sounds like fuel or PC3 problems. Doesn't sound like there is a bog in clutching, just a dead big bog, no rpm, no fuel.

 

[kiliki]

if you pull under hood air the temp swing is too fast for the ecu to keep up. slow speed = more heat now the ecu see 70* air temp high speed clears out the heat now ecu see 25* temp all just happened in 5 sec. just my .02

 

[Sledbrain2]

Update, adjusted belt deflection it was off a bit, no difference, getting through the mid seems to be the issue, once up above 6000 wot will pull like normal. I have an m7 that runs fine and has the same tps, I am going to swap that in and see if that make a difference. Getting back to my garage at partial throttle does not have the same response that it normally has when I burp it just a bit. I do not think its an clutching issue as well now,

 

[Sledbrain2]

changed out the tps with one from my M7, same issue, I believe its in the pc3, will pull hard most of the time, If there is a stutter it does not matter how much throttle I have applied it will stutter until I work throttle to clear it up. As long as I keep working the throttle so the motor stays crisp will not stutter or bog. I might have to give a call to power commander to see if they have a fix or a reboot that I can do.

 

[Sledbrain2]

Called SLP and they said that I need to set the tps with the P3, I went through the procedure to change the idle and wot with the P3 hook to my PC, screwed something up, called dyno jet, manually put the low and high values in. Now it rips, at least on a stand, going to do a test in a bit hopefully I got it, Got to give a big thanks to slp and dyno jet for the help, actually got talk to a person with in 5 minutes.

 

[Sledbrain2]

Update; narrowed down to limp mode

I found a couple wires come from air box that were worn through, tape up the wires and still have the issue. From what the motor is doing when it bogs I believe that it is in limb mode. It seems to be retarding timing from the sound. I am going to unhook the PC3 to see if that is the issue. I do not get any codes.

 

[FireAnt]

Have you checked the reeds? Had a sled act very similar turned out to be reeds were broken and worn.

 

[Sledbrain2]

Finally have resoultion

Well I think I have the issue corrected. And the fix was as easy as typing this post. I bought the sled 3 seasons ago and has ran flawlessly(motor). The previous owner told me not to touch the controller because it was spot on, only to replace the springs in the clutches each year. From the initial start up I had this annoying stutter. I replaced reeds, cleaned fuel injectors, found two wires from the air temp sensor that were bare on a couple spots, replaced the exhaust sensor(did that because of how old it is). Still same issue, I live in Omaha and have a field behind my house that in one more day will not have any snow, so I called dyno jet and talked to them again, he said that it sounds like you need more fuel. He told me how to adjust the map and I headed out with my pc. Took 3 different adjustment. I ended up adding 10 percent more at the 2 throttle setting all the way from 3200 to 7000 rpms. World of difference. This is on a pc3 if you have not read previous posts. I know this I will be bring the parts and pc to adjust while riding out west from now on. A phone app would be pretty sweet in the future.

My only real question is what changed that I needed to add fuel at that throttle position?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

The pcIII cost me a motor from faulty hardware. Haven't ran one again, 2400 dollars for junk controller, went back to a bd box and ran it hard.

 

[Sledbrain2]

Did you have a hardware failure? what was the issue?