i need some help this sled is stuck at 3400rpm and wont go any lower will rev up but wont come down past 3400rpm. I have tried ether on crank seals and also had airbox off checked the throttle body and adjusted the TPS to proper specs in manual
NEED HELP sled is stuck at 3400RPM
- Thread starter newageshane
- Start date
ya i have taken the airbox off to check the throttle bodies to make sure they are not jammed or stuck and it is a stock machine nothing done to it.
loosened off the idle nut n backed it off a bit which tightened up the throttle slack and also solved the idle problem
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EricW
Well-known member
Use caution Jedi, you really think the idle screw tightened itself up? On the cfi sleds that screw is used to set voltage tolerances with the TPS. It is not used to tune by ear like a carbed sled.
If it was fine then all of a sudden got high, you have other issues. If you adjusted the idle screw to taste without using a multitester and TPS tool, you now have created other issues there too.
What about the possibility of a torn/cracked throttle body boot? If its a Pro it should be under warranty, I would have a dealer re-set your TPS then look for problems if the symptom persists. Good luck. EW
If it was fine then all of a sudden got high, you have other issues. If you adjusted the idle screw to taste without using a multitester and TPS tool, you now have created other issues there too.
What about the possibility of a torn/cracked throttle body boot? If its a Pro it should be under warranty, I would have a dealer re-set your TPS then look for problems if the symptom persists. Good luck. EW
Are you running a left hand throttle?
Have you tried the carb cleaner test around the boots aand reed cages?
Do you have any slack in the throttle cable?
Are you running a fuel controller?
Telling us what sled it is would help...
Have you tried the carb cleaner test around the boots aand reed cages?
Do you have any slack in the throttle cable?
Are you running a fuel controller?
Telling us what sled it is would help...
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EricW
Well-known member
I type too slow man to get all detailed. Look a the link in my thread above. The value is in volts not Ohms and that is with a solid 5 v supply with TB's adjusted closed and TPS set correctly and locked down. Then you set the idle value watching the volts. It's all in there. See ya. EW
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dmkhnr
Well-known member
2 different procedures going on here.
I set mine with ohms per the dealer.
You need to tap the tps wire at the ecu, I can't remember the color but I think it was blue with no tracer, centered in the ecu wire loom, maybe the 7th wire in. (I'll check on this) Verified 7th wire in on 26 pin connector, blue wire no tracer.
Set your tester to ohm, red on the tps wire, black on chassis ground, engine off, no throttle. Whats your reading? Loosen tps and set it to .947 (.945-.950 is the range that the manual calls out but .947 is specified)
My sled idled low from the get go, no gauges, and would die quite often. I set tps using this procedure and it worked perfect.
This procedure is easy for me to do because I had to tap the blue wire for my boondocker turbo. I have a wire connector in an easy spot that allows me to make contact with the tps wire.
I set mine with ohms per the dealer.
You need to tap the tps wire at the ecu, I can't remember the color but I think it was blue with no tracer, centered in the ecu wire loom, maybe the 7th wire in. (I'll check on this) Verified 7th wire in on 26 pin connector, blue wire no tracer.
Set your tester to ohm, red on the tps wire, black on chassis ground, engine off, no throttle. Whats your reading? Loosen tps and set it to .947 (.945-.950 is the range that the manual calls out but .947 is specified)
My sled idled low from the get go, no gauges, and would die quite often. I set tps using this procedure and it worked perfect.
This procedure is easy for me to do because I had to tap the blue wire for my boondocker turbo. I have a wire connector in an easy spot that allows me to make contact with the tps wire.
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EricW
Well-known member
The stuff I quoted is from the IQ chassis, maybe the Pro is different. I haven't looked into the Pro setings. Even if the Pro is a different procedure wouldn't you still set the idle after the baseline was established using your multimeter (Ohms of Volts) and then adjust idle to values rather than just turning the idle screw and watching the tach.
So is it running good now? EW
So is it running good now? EW
I would think either way should work, and you are right Eric, setting with idle screw backed out to get base setting and then using your screw to set to a specific volt/ohm reading..as long as you are using the correct settings for either volts or ohms...I will go look and see what the pro procedure shows...BRB......
Ok, just read the 11 online dealers manual...all 6-8 cfi motors in 11 call for using volts to set tps..base settings are between .693 and .708 VDC..Idle settings are 600-.942 to .957 VDC...........800- .937 to .952 VDC.....also, same throttle sync as the earlier cfi motors..but it does say there is no reason to adjust unless its obvious its been tampered with and shows how to eyeball the plates to check if they look ok .......hope that helps..
DMK, I would recheck yours..sounds like if it was set with ohms it could be off....you might want to verify its settings are right on a volt setting...
DMK, I would recheck yours..sounds like if it was set with ohms it could be off....you might want to verify its settings are right on a volt setting...
also, on the idle settings if you set to the low side(.937) it will idle lower,if you set to the high side(.952) it will idle higher....
