need help diagnosing problem

[steepndeep800]

I have a 11 Pro 800
It runs good most of the time. every once in a while when you go more than 3/4 throttle and pin it the motor will start to rev then bog sometimes for just a second or two sometimes it wont stop bogging unless you let off and repin it. It seems to go in streaks it will be good for a bit then do it a bunch fairly often then not again for a bit.
Sled has 2000 ish miles
I changed ethanol/non resister to try both didnt seem to make it any better.
I put new plugs in
I took a cue tip and clean the plug caps they were really dirty. I thought that may have cured it as it didnt do it for a 10 min but then went back to doing it randomly again.
So my thoughts were:
if it were ex valve bellows woulding it happen all the time?
Pipe sensor?
TPS?
Fuel filter starting to plug?

It has thrown no codes that I can see on guage

Anyone have experience with something like this and care to share some direction or thoughts?

 

[Murph]

If you can replicate it....

Put the MFD in record mode and playback. Sounds like it is hitting the limiter OR as is also really common, the ECU determines that the engine is picking up revs too quickly (like in a blown belt situation) and it is shutting it down momentarily.

When it stutters, if you roll out of the throttle and roll (not pin) back in does it go away?

Have you tried adding 1 or 2 grams of weight in the primary?

When mine used to do it the tach would read 6800 rpm or so.

 

[steepndeep800]

It's not a over rev situation I'm pretty sure. I can slowly roll into throttle and when it gets to 80-90% throttle is will bog every now and then. If I hold it sometimes it will clear othertimes just stays at 65-6800 rpms until I lift.

 

[coyoteman]

Have you serviced your clutches? Maybe they are sticking. If the top of your plugs and caps are all black it's time for new caps.

 

[nuggetau]

It's not a over rev situation I'm pretty sure. I can slowly roll into throttle and when it gets to 80-90% throttle is will bog every now and then. If I hold it sometimes it will clear othertimes just stays at 65-6800 rpms until I lift.

I had a similar problem, I adjusted throttle free play to .8mm and the problem went away. Worth a try.

 

[flying frenchman]

Mine does the same doing it for a long time. The cure a new sled.

 

[800poodragon]

I had an 11 that would happen to once in awhile...usually when you went to go up a hill and about 1/2 way up it would die out. Had to let off and and pin it again and it would take off again. Dealer changed injectors and it went away. Never showed any codes or anything else.

 

[flying frenchman]

I'm on my third set of injector, changed tps, 2 exhaust sensor. Never cured nothing. 2100 miles and blown motor, still waiting for sled to be fixed. 2 weeks now. Would be nice to find a cure.

I hate the new belt drive and the new driveshaft.

 

[MATCO]

X2

I had 2 2011 pro do the same thing. Dealer changed out the throttle switch and that fixed them both.

 

[steepndeep800]

throttle switch?
You mean the switch in the throttle block?

 

[sledneck_03]

Try pulling the y pipe off the exhaust valves and cap the valve barbs with vacuum caps from a auto parts store. It might be your solenoid is sticking open causing them to not build pressure for your valves to open up.

Check your exhaust bellows, one might be cracked. Those are cheap try's. if that doesn't fix it its your filter.

 

[RockinMntKing]

Steep, I have what I think is the exact same problem about mid throttle grab it and it stutters stays that way tel you let of and re grab. But if you slowly bring it up it works flawless every time. Sound familiar? Have you had any luck yet? Sled is back to stock EXCEPT gearing is at 18:46 and the top rpms r around 8350/8400. Maybe the weights are too loose and it's revving too quickly but think this is unlikely. Does anyone know the procedure for checking throttle safety? Could it be Tps everything I've read there sounds like that comes with reverse switch and starting issues. Mine does not have those. Buddy was having the same problem he found that if he ran with the hood unplugged it ran good but he just burnt his down this weekend. So I'm assuming that was the cause and glad I didn't try that but am hoping that its not the bog leading to meltdown!!!!!!

 

[alex8q4]

Any updates on your bogs? I am new here and have stopped in to see what you guys have experienced. I recently had both pistons melt down on the exhaust side following an extended period of an undiagnosed bog. My dealer has yet to give me a solid reasoning. There are about 3200 miles on my '12 800. Polaris is sending the dealer a new short block but they on back order. That leaves me to sled via my keyboard!... very very sad.

 

[garett87]

2000 miles on my 12 800, I was getting this same bog. The bog got increasingly worse this weekend. Noticed a rougher idle and a lot of unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust. Then it started fouling the pto plug. Thought maybe tps as I had similar issues last season, but the dealer did a compression test and showed 73lbs on my pto side. I'd had the bog since about 1400 miles. Looks like a new top end for me.

 

[beamslayer]

Check your ev and make sure the hole in the cylinder is clear of carbon . Use a tip cleaner for a torch or a small wire from a mig welder and make sure the pistons are on the down stroke.
Check the bushing in the primary clutch and the roller guides for wear.
Try a leak down test along with a compression test .

 

[IQRIDR]

Remove your throttle satefy switch, tape/zip tie it shut, secure it to the frame somewhere and I bet you see this problem either dissapear or happen a lot less. We deal with this issue on a constant basis with Pro RMK customers. I've been trying to get RSI to build a plug-in switch to delete the TSS. The polaris race department builds one. The resistance values in them are about ~6800 Ohms. So a guy could just wire in 6800 ohms worth of resistor inline and solve the problem as well.

 

[Thundy]

Remove your throttle satefy switch, tape/zip tie it shut, secure it to the frame somewhere and I bet you see this problem either dissapear or happen a lot less. We deal with this issue on a constant basis with Pro RMK customers. I've been trying to get RSI to build a plug-in switch to delete the TSS. The polaris race department builds one. The resistance values in them are about ~6800 Ohms. So a guy could just wire in 6800 ohms worth of resistor inline and solve the problem as well.

Where is this switch located at?

 

[Zrider]

While you fellers are looking around in your engine compartment, you might also check the wire(s) connected to your Exhaust Valve Solenoid. A riding pal of mine has an '11 Pro and it started running like s**t. Hit the flipper, pulled hard, then would suddenly shut down and then would start pulling again. Dealer put the D Wrench on it and it threw a code for the EV Solenoid. Checked the wire and it was completely shot. Rewired and now it runs perfectly. A case of another electrical gremlin.

 

[4pearly]

Had the same thing, injector code came up. Dealer replaced injectors and stator. Hopefully it fixes it.

 

[roppin]

Had the same thing, injector code came up. Dealer replaced injectors and stator. Hopefully it fixes it.

Did you se the code when riding or did you go to the dealer and get it checked in the computer?