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NEED glue for my poo chaincase ASAP can anyone help?

I need some glue to put a chaincase on my pro rmk ASAP. It didn't show up with my parts and I really NEED to ride this weekend. Can anyone help me out?

Thanks
 
If you are in a pinch... dont bond the case to the bulkhead ..

Definitely DO NOT use epoxy or other adhesive (like urethane 5200 fast cure or Sikaflex urethane)... you will never get the case off again.

Best to use without... then get the right stuff and remove/re-install the case again with the adhesive ....than to use an irreversible bond.

Good luck in your quest.

You may see if your dealer can help you out from their own service department stock.
 
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Yes... the 11's were not bonded.... but you should bond it as soon as you get the chance.

The 12's and ALL replacement bulkheads are bonded.

Temporarily to get you on the snow... dont worry about it.

BUT DO worry about your lower chaincase seal on the driveshaft... make sure that is not dinged or nicked when installing ... which is very likely.

From another thread...

Order a chaincase seal right now as you will probably damage it removing the driveshaft.

Just replacing a 2.4" series 5.1 track is a pain and it's hard to imagine installing a track that is .100" taller. Maybe if the chaincase is removed, you can save the seal and a lot of swearing when swapping tracks. But, the chaincase has to be rotated into position on the bottom end so maybe the footrest thingy would also need to be removed and possibly loosen the fender to allow more chaincase movement. There is also a stud plate on the top two rear flange positions that would need to be removed or pushed back. You can probably remove the plate after the suspension is out and letting the track hang on the driveshaft.

If you ride cratered and whooped out single track to the hills, you probably want to consider gluing the chaincase on during installation.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for all the help! My buddy has an autobody shop. he's checking what metal to metal adhesive he uses. I'll post back when I know what it is. Would any reversable metal to metal adhesive do the trick?
 
I would use the right stuff...

There really are not any readily available substitutes that release with low heat and are exceptionally strong in cold weather, tolerant of less than ideal surface prep etc like the 406 Acrylic that is filled with glass beads.

3m does not make a comparable product... similar yes... but not appropriate for your install.

So the answer is... Probably not.




.
 
I would use an anerobic sealant such as a loctite 515 or a loctite 518 and never look back. No need to bond with this stuff. These products will absorb and withstand shock and vibration. I use them everyday in a high production transmission remanufacturing industry and never have issues. The auto oems have been using it for years.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0150219&ucst=t


http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/...anguage=en&BU=industrial&redDotUID=0000000HWT




Napa sells it in the permatex brand.

http://www.permatex.com/products/au..._makers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Gasket_Maker_b.htm
 
Well the dealer won't put the sled together without the right paste. And they won't let me put it together myself without it. Looks like I'm ****ed for a weekend of Sunshine, warm, temps, and good snow. ****ING BULL****
 
Still no GLUE!!! so the dealer is putting the sled together for me this weekend without the glue. Do I have to take it easy on it or just have at er?

Don't worry about it. Ride as you usually would. The 2011s didn't have the glue, they just decided to glue it for 2012 to make everything even stiffer than it was before.
 
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